Southwest Circle Helicopter Adventure

I offer, for your perusal, the first draft of a 9-day helicopter charter I plan to offer passengers.

Yesterday, I spent the day in Sedona, AZ. I had a charter there that morning, and while my passengers were doing a Jeep tour, shopping, and having lunch, I spent the time planning a trip I’d been thinking about for a long time.

I’m interested in getting feedback. Take a few moments and read up. Use the Comments link to let me know what you think. Don’t balk at the price; it’s actually an incredible deal for about 9 hours of helicopter flight time over one of the most scenic areas of the U.S., plus lodging, other tours, and some meals.

Keep in mind that this posting is not an actual offer. Once I fine-tune the details, I’ll be offering the tour on the Flying M Air Web site. I’ll add photos and a table that lays out exactly what’s included each day. If you’re interested in actually taking this tour, contact me through that site and let me know. It would be great to do the first tour with someone who learned about it here.

Day 1
Your southwest circle adventure begins at Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport, where you’ll meet your helicopter pilot and climb aboard a 2005 Robinson R44 Raven II helicopter. This helicopter includes many luxury features, including leather seats, bubble observation windows, noise canceling headsets, voice activated intercom system, iPod-compatible stereo audio system, and state of the art GPS navigation system.

You’ll make the 60-minute flight to Sedona, AZ via the Verde River and beautiful Oak Creek for your first stop at “America’s most scenic airport.” You’ll take a 10-minute shuttle ride to Uptown Sedona for a 2-hour Jeep tour among Sedona’s famous red rocks, shopping, and lunch or dinner on your own. Then its back up to Airport Mesa where you’ll check into your red rock view room at Sedona Sky Ranch. Sit on your room’s deck and watch the sun set over the town.

Day 2
In the morning, return to the helicopter for the 45-minute flight to Grand Canyon Airport. You’ll start your visit to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim with a 25-minute helicopter tour over the Grand Canyon with one of the park’s licensed tour operators. At the end of the tour, board a shuttle bus for the 15-minute ride into Grand Canyon National Park. Enjoy a walk along the Rim, browse through the gift shops and museum displays, have lunch, take a bus along West Rim Drive for a variety of canyon views. You can even take a short hike into the canyon itself. In the afternoon, you’ll check into your room at one of the park’s South Rim accommodations, walking distance to the Rim and its incredible views.

Day 3
After breakfast at historic El Tovar hotel, courtesy of your pilot, return to the airport where the helicopter waits. From Grand Canyon Airport, it’s a 45-minute flight to Page on Lake Powell. Possible activities in Page include a Navajo-led tour of Antelope Canyon, (an incredible slot canyon carved through the sandstone), a tour of the Glen Canyon Dam, and a boat tour on Lake Powell. Ground transportation is available via the free shuttle provided by the park service concessionaire. You’ll spend the night at the Wahweap Lodge, where you can stroll along the water’s edge at sunset.

Day 4
In the morning, return to the airport and your helicopter for the next leg of your trip, a 45-minute flight along the southern edge of Lake Powell to Monument Valley. You’ll land at the airstrip at Goulding’s Lodge, a historic trading post with restaurant and motel. From there, you’ll take a 3-1/2 hour tour of Monument Valley, driving among the famous sandstone buttes with Navajo guides. Then it’s back to your room at Gouldings, with its private balcony overlooking the valley.

Day 5
The next day, you’re off to Bryce Canyon. The 1-hour flight will cross Lake Powell and miles of high desert landscape, passing by the east side of Bryce for a glimpse of the famous hoodoo formations before landing at the Bryce Canyon Airport. You’ll go into the park where you can walk along the rim, taking in the sights as you go, or descend on well-maintained trails among the rock formations. Hotel accommodations are in the park, at the Bryce Canyon Hotel.

Day 6
Start the day with an hour-long flight to a remote ranch on the north rim of the Grand Canyon: Bar 10. This unique destination is a waypoint for Colorado River runners starting or ending their adventures. If we arrive early enough, you’ll see helicopters taking passengers in and out of the canyon. When things calm down, enjoy horseback riding, skeet shooting, and a cowboy show. All meals are included for this part of the trip — the ranch is so remote, there’s no where else to eat! Even the sleeping accommodations are something special: you’ll share a covered wagon for the night after seeing more stars than you thought existed.

Day 7
The next morning, it’s off to bright lights in the big city. After an hour-long flight over high desert and Lake Mead, we’ll touch down at North Las Vegas Airport and take a taxi to a hotel along the Famous Las Vegas Strip. You’ll be on your own to explore casinos and shopping opportunities. But make sure you’re available that evening for a Neon Lights tour along the strip with Papillon Helicopters.

Day 8
The adventure continues when we leave Las Vegas for Grand Canyon West on the Hualapai Indian Reservation. You may catch a glimpse of the Hoover Dam as we cross Lake Mead and head east on the 45-minute flight. After a coach tour out to Guano Point for sweeping views of the canyon and a buffet lunch, you’ll board a helicopter for a trip down into the canyon and a boat ride on the smooth waters of the Colorado River. Afterwards, relax in the helicopter for the 90-minute flight to Wickenburg, a western town perfect for unwinding on the last night of your adventure. Unwind at a downtown motel, near shops, restaurants, and the historic area.

Day 9
Spend the last day of your trip in Wickenburg, strolling through the historic area, browsing shops, visiting through the museum, or just taking it easy. When you’re ready to return to Phoenix for the return trip home, your pilot will take you to the airport.

Package Price:
$8,995 double occupancy for two people; add $1,995 for separate rooms. Prices includes taxes and other fees.

Reservations are required at least 30 days in advance. A 50% deposit is required at the time of reservation. Cancellations within 30 days of departure date are subject to a $200 cancellation fee. Deposits are forfeited for cancellations within 14 days of departure date. (Trip insurance is recommended if you think your travel plans may change.) Flying M Air reserves the right to change hotel accommodations and some services from what may be listed here in the event of unavailability. In all instances, substituted accommodations and services will meet or exceed those offered here.

Package price includes air transportation, tours, and lodging (double occupancy) as described, some ground transportation, and some meals for up to two people. Passengers are responsible for all incidental costs not specifically included in the description, including most meals, some ground transportation, and the cost of personal items purchased on the trip.

Total passenger and luggage weight is limited to 500 lbs. Luggage size is limited by stowage space constraints; details will be provided at booking. Walking distances up to 1/4 mile is required at several stops. Some accommodations have limited facilities due primarily to their locations in remote areas. This trip is not recommended for people with health problems or special dietary needs, or people who have difficulty getting around. Trip starts and ends at Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport (or another Phoenix area airport of the passenger’s choosing).

Important Note:
This trip is not being offered as a tour. Instead, it is a series of charter helicopter flights, for transportation purposes only, packaged with lodging, some meals, and tours offered by licensed tour operators at destination locations. Although the helicopter flights pass over and through some of the most incredible scenery the southwest has to offer, Flying M Air is not a tour operator in these areas and is not conducting the flights as tours.

Sedona Sky Ranch

One of Sedona’s little secrets.

When we have out-of-town guests, we sometimes take them to the usual tourist spots in Arizona. (I can’t tell you how many times I’ve taken people to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.) This past week, Mike’s mother has been in town. And over the weekend, we took her to Sedona for an overnight stay.

Sedona is a beautiful place. It has also become a bit of a tourist trap. “Uptown” Sedona is full off gift shops and counters for booking tours. Its sidewalks are roamed by people trying to get you to come see their timeshare opportunities. (I never could understand the attraction of timeshares.) If you’re looking for a t-shirt or a piece of Indian jewelry or some junky souvenir of red rock country, this is the place to come.

Uptown Sedona is right at the mouth of Oak Creek Canyon, a beautiful spot with a year-round creek, shady trees, and towering cliffs. A drive up through the canyon is the nicest way to reach Flagstaff, especially in the fall when the leaves on the trees along the creek are changing color.

So right before you reach the beauty of Oak Creek Canyon, you have to drive through the most touristy cluster of shops in Arizona. The same shops that block the views of some of the incredible red rocks that people have supposedly come to Sedona to see.

To be fair, Sedona’s local government has enacted certain zoning laws that require new construction to blend in with the environment. That’s why you’ll see a lot of reddish buildings. It’s also one of the few places I’ve seen dozens of homes painted a dark sage green–to match the scrubby desert pine trees that grow in the area. Unfortunately, those laws were not passed before Uptown Sedona was developed, so most of that area is pretty ugly.

We planned to spend the night in Sedona and needed a place to stay. We wanted to stay at a nice place–the last time we’d taken his mother on a trip in Arizona, we’d stayed at a weird place down near Tubac that had been built on top of an old missle silo. (I can’t make this stuff up.) Mike surfed the Web and came up with a place that included the word “Spa” in its name. The pictures looked good, but it was supposedly in West Sedona. I was worried that it would be too far away from the things his mom wanted to see–primarily shops–or tucked away in some back corner without any views. So I suggested a place where I knew there were good views: Sedona Sky Ranch.

Sedona Sky Ranch is Sedona’s airport motel. And that’s why so few people consider it as a place to stay. I consider it one of Sedona’s little secrets.

Sedona Airport is on a mesa just south of town. For those of you who didn’t pay attention during geology lessons in school, a mesa is a flat-topped mountain. There are a lot of them in Arizona and the rest of the southwest. Sedona’s airport sits on one of them. (The St. George, UT and Bagdad, AZ airports also sit on mesas.) It’s kind of neat because as you approach the runway in a plane, it’s a lot like landing on an aircraft carrier.

Sedona Sky Ranch is on the northwest side of the mesa, walking distance from the airport’s little terminal. It sits on the edge of the mesa and has about a dozen rooms that look right out over the town. And the red rocks beyond it.

View from Sedona Sky RanchWe’d reserved two Red Rock View rooms for the night. The rooms included 2 queen beds, a deck overlooking the views, and a kitchenette with a small fridge, microwave, and sink. And a bathroom, of course. Not what I’d call luxurious, but certainly very comfortable. And the views! At about 500 feet above the town, we didn’t have to look at any ugly commercial buildings. Sedona’s famous red rocks were right there. The photo here shows the view from our deck. The rock formation in the left center is called the Coffee Pot. (Think percolator.)

Mike and I shared a bottle of wine on the deck while the sun dropped down on the horizon, making the red rocks even redder. (Mike’s mom watched television in her room.) In the overlook parking area, which was a few hundred yards away, a native American musician played the drum and flute while tourists looked on. The sun set, the flute stopped abruptly, and the tourists got into their cars to go down to their hotels far below us. The full moon rose above the buttes in the east.

The next morning, when we checked out, we made reservations for October. We chose the cabin next door, which is slightly larger that our room, has a larger deck, and a slightly better view. We’ll drive up in the Jeep with Jack the Dog (they allow pets) and spend a few days exploring the back roads of the area while the autumn leaf show is in progress.

It’ll be a nice escape.

Oh, and that “spa” Mike found online? It was on the main road in West Sedona, right next to the Safeway shopping center. How’s that for atmosphere?

Back in the Saddle

My Ducati comes out of the shop and hits the road.

Before I started flying, before I started horseback riding, I learned to ride a motorcycle. In fact, it was one of the four goals I set for myself when I was in my 20s. (The goals were: learned to ride a motorcycle, learn to fly a helicopter, learn to speak Spanish fluently, and learn to play the piano. I got the first two done and haven’t done much with the others. But I have added a fifth goal: learn to juggle.)

My first motorcycle was a 1980 Honda CB400 Hawk. It was a standard bike and although it was 11 years old when I bought it, it only had 421 miles on it. The previous owner, a woman, had been diagnosed with cancer not long after buying the bike and had died soonafterward. Her husband, a motorcycle dealer, had held onto it for years before finally selling it to me. The bike was nice and good for learning. But I soon wanted something a little sportier.

I found that something at an Americade motorcycle rally at Lake George, NY one year. I went for a test ride with Yamaha and rode one of their Seca IIs. It was a 600cc bike with an upright riding position but sporty fairings. Later that year — 1992 — I bought one. (Oddly enough, the Yamaha dealer was next door to a BMW dealer and Mike bought his second bike there the same day. We certainly made a few folks green when we showed up at a motorcycle camping trip along the Delaware River on two brand new bikes.)

I liked that bike. I took it on a trip that Mike and I made from our New Jersey home down Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway into Tennesee. From there, we rode east to the coast and rode up the barrier islands — taking a few ferries along the way — on our way home. That was a camping trip; you wouldn’t believe how much gear we were able to bring along. Later, I got Givi luggage for it — expensive, Italian hard luggage that’s perfect for long trips. And a Corbin seat, of course. Comfort is important.

But I fell out of like with that bike on another one of our motorcycle camping trips with the gang. The ride was to a campground in the Finger Lakes district of New York. In trying to keep up with the guys, I found the top end of the bike. There’s nothing so disheartening as turning the throttle and finding that it won’t turn anymore as the guys you’re riding with start to leave you behind. I kept up okay, but I wasn’t a happy camper. I needed a new bike.

By that time, it was 1995 or 1996. I went to my local motorcycle dealer and, on a whim, test rode a Ducati Monster. I was very impressed, especially when I turned the throttle what I thought was a conservative amount and almost pulled a wheelie. Egads! That bike had testosterone! Of course, I didn’t like the styling of the Monster. I wanted something sportier looking. So I wound up with a Ducati 900 SS CR. (The letters stand for SuperSport Cafe Racer.)

This ain’t your auntie’s motorcycle. This is a street-legal race bike. It’s absolutely terrible at speeds below 25 MPH, making it a real drag to ride in city traffic. But get the RPMs over 4500 on a twisty mountain road, and you’re in for the ride of your life.

That’s if you can ride it.

I got pretty good at riding it. Leaning into the tight turns, keeping the RPMs high, keeping my hand and foot off the brakes. Downshift to slow down — that bike is made for engine braking. Not that the Brembo brakes do a bad job at slowing things down when you need them to.

I made only three customizations on the bike. First, I replaced the painfully uncomfortable seat with a Corbin saddle. Second, I had the gears changed slightly to make it easier to shift — I can’t remember exactly what they did, but it really helped out when I had to ride slowly. And third, I replaced the stock mirrors, which did a great job showing me my shoulders and arms, with aftermarket mirrors that actually showed the road behind me.

Not long after buying the bike, we moved to Arizona. I brought both bikes — the Ducati, for sport riding and the Yamaha for touring — with me. (The Honda was long gone; I sold it when I bought the Yamaha.) We did a lot of riding on Yarnell Hill, White Spar Road, and Mingus Mountain. But that’s all the interesting riding there was around here.

I remember when a friend of ours from back east came for a visit and rented a BMW for the day. We rode on a 350-mile loop on some of the nicest back roads in central Arizona. I took the Ducati and had a blast. But my shoulders were sore for the next few days. That bike just isn’t made for touring.

We also went on a trip with Chrome Caballeros. They do motorcycle camping tours. I rode the Ducati and Mike rode his BMW; all the other guys in the group rode Harleys. (They wore the Harley clothes, too. What’s that all about?) I took the bike as far northwest as Zion National Park and as far east as Page. One day, we rode over 300 miles. But I was in better shape then and didn’t stay sore for long.

Over time, I rode less and less. I started horseback riding instead. Then I started flying. The motorcycles spent some time in a storage shed, then moved to my hangar. The batteries always seemed to be dead when I wanted to ride them. The Yamaha needed work on the fuel system; I had it taken care of, then put it back in the hangar. Time passed.

This past autumn, I took the bikes out to ride them. The Yamaha wouldn’t stay running. The Ducati was leaking fuel from its muffler. Both bikes needed attention and I was neglecting them.

So we brought them to Dan. You may have read about Dan in another article here. He does motorcycles, too. In fact, he’s a Harley guy (although I don’t hold that against him).

I picked up the Ducati on Wednesday.

“Did you take it for a ride?” I asked Dan.

“Yeah,” he said. “That bike is fast. It surprised me.”

I didn’t say what I was thinking: heck, it’s not a Harley.

I rode it on 93 to burn the oil that had been in the muffler out of the system. It rode good. I came down Vulture Mine Road from 93 to 60, following a car. The speedometer said I was doing 70. It didn’t feel that fast and I doubted that the car in front of me would be doing 70 on that road, so I figured the speedometer was screwed up. Then I put it back in the hangar.

I had it out again today. I stopped at the airport for a latte and some chatting at Stan’s Latte Cafe. Dave volunteered to lead me down 60 toward Aguila at a steady 65 MPH to test the speedometer. We did this little test and the speedometer registered 70. (I guess I should have trusted my speedometer a bit more than I did on Wednesday. Some people just drive too fast on Vulture Mine Road.)

When the Yamaha comes back, I’ll have two bikes that need attention again. Maybe it’s time for another road trip. One I can take on two wheels.

Jack the Dog Earns His Wings

We go flying in the helicopter and take Jack with us.

The phone call came last night at about 7 pm. It was Robin from Prescott, another R44 owner.

“We finally have a day off tomorrow,” he told me. “Want to go flying?”

Of course I did. I always want to go flying. I suggested Red Creek, a dirt strip along the Verde River. He’d never been there and was interested in seeing the place.

I told him I’d fly up to Prescott and meet him and his wife Linda at around 11 AM. We’d fly down to Red Creek and have a picnic lunch and a short hike.

Mike and I debated asking various friends to come along. My helicopter has four seats; it seemed a shame to waste two of them with such a fun destination. But we couldn’t decide who to ask.

In the morning, I made an outrageous suggestion: “How about if we take Jack?”

Jack is our dog. He’s part Border Collie and part Australian Shepherd. We call him a Border Shepherd and, if we say it with a straight face, people think its a real breed. He’d been in a small plane once, but he’d never been in a helicopter. He’s a pretty smart dog, although he tends to get excited easily. He loves roaming around in the desert and this destination would be perfect for him.

A while later, Jack was wearing the harness we’d bought for him months ago and sitting on a blanket in the back of my helicopter. Mike used a piece of rope and a carabiner to fasten the harness to the seat belt. The idea was for him to sit in the seat behind me so Mike could reach around back or take a look at him easily if he had to. But he’s so squirmy, he managed to sit in either seat.

I fired up the helicopter and took off. Jack was calm. It was like he was in the car, going for a ride. But the view out the window was…well, somewhat distant.

We flew up to Prescott and eventually got clearance to land at the bottleneck. I saw Robin and Linda in front of their hangar with their helicopter parked nearby. There were two planes on the ramp there. I flew in between them. One wasn’t tied down and its wings rocked, but not dangerously. (Why a pilot would park an airplane with its wings lined up right over the tie-down chains yet not tie it down is beyond me.) I set down on the ramp. Mike got out to talk to Robin and Linda. When he came back, they got into their helicopter and started up. Robin made the call for a flight of two helicopters departing to the northeast, low level. That would keep us from having to cross the runways. We got clearance and took off.

Once clear of the Class D airspace, we switched to the helicopter air-to-air frequency, which is 123.025. Robin told me to lead. He fell in behind me, a comfortable distance away and slightly higher than me. It was a real pleasure to fly with a pilot who knew how to give me some space.

We flew southeast, eventually intersecting with I-17 where it comes down off the plateau into Camp Verde. Then we followed the Verde River south. We didn’t fly down in the canyon, hugging the twisting river. Instead, we kept up a bit, overflying the goosenecks. The river was flowing swiftly beneath us, but after leaving the vicinity of Camp Verde, we didn’t see a soul. Well, there were a few cars by the Childs Power Plant. But after that, no one.

I pointed out the canyon that led to Payson. Then I pointed out an odd-shaped butte that was near our destination. I flew in first, checking the windsock at the east end of the strip. The wind was blowing from upriver. I made my approach from the south, crossed the strip, and landed in the tie-down area near the picnic table.

Robin Lands his R44 Beside MineMike already had Jack out of the helicopter as I was cooling the engine down when Robin came in for a landing. Although I thought there was enough space beside me, Robin didn’t think the spot looked level enough. He wound up parking a few dozen yards east, on the same side of the strip.

We met over at the picnic table. Oddly enough, we’d both brought along fried chicken. Ours was from Safeway, theirs was from Fry’s. And chocolate chip cookes. And soda and water.

A plane flew over and we thought it might land. I’d parked with my helicopter’s tail a little close to the runway. After guessing at a few frequencies, I finally reached the pilot on my handheld radio and asked him if he was landing. He told us he wasn’t; the runway was too short. And sandy and bumpy, I could have added. If he was in doubt, he definitely would have messed up a landing in his Cessna 172.

In case another airplane came by, we used Robin’s wheels to move my helicopter a bit farther away from the strip.

A little history of this place: if I got the story right, the airstrip was carved in by Jason Rovey’s grandfather, who used to run cattle on that land. Back then, he flew in and out in the Citabria Jason still flies out of Wickenburg. I happened to stumble across the place while flying in the area in my R22 years ago, but later met Jason and learned more about it. We flew in a few years back with four helicopters (my R22, two Bell 47s, and an R44).

The strip is maintained by the people who use it. They take care of the runway manually, with rakes and shovels that they leave at the site. I’ve been told that a lot of people from the airpark at Carefree use the place. In addition to the maintenance tools, there’s a picnic table, an ammo box with a sign-in book, some lawn chairs, a horseshoe pit with horseshoes, a barbeque pit, and water bottles. The one thing the place could really use is some shade–it’s mighty sunny there with very few trees taller than a person. There are plenty of cacti, though, including tall saguaro and lots of prickly pear.

Mike and Jack at the Verde RiverAfter lunch, we took a short hike down to the river. It was rushing pretty good and the sound of the flowing water was great. There’s plenty of space down there to camp and we hope to come back in the spring, when it’s warmer at night, to camp out. I’m hoping Jason and his fiance, Becky, can join us. Jason still flies in with the Citabria that’s older than he is. But somehow, I don’t think we’ll camp by the river. I think we’ll be up by the runway, by that picnic table.

And I know we won’t come in the summer because it’s too darn hot and Jason says the place is full of rattlesnakes.

The ShackAfter scouting around down by the river, we followed an old road up to a shack built high above the river. There were some cattle pens there and the place was pretty beat up. Supports for the porch roof had collapsed and the metal roof panels hung down against the side of the building. The concrete pad the place was built on had 1964 scratched into the cement. Inside, the building showed signs of recent use, including a new set of steps leading up to one of the bunks and a sleeping bag in decent condition.

We made our way back to the picnic table and spent some time drinking water and soda and chatting. Jack sniffed around the prickly pear cacti, looking for rodents (likely) or lizards (unlikely this time of year). He’d had a lot of fun wading in Red Creek and the river and was just dirty enough for Robin and Linda to tease me about the mess he’d make in the helicopter.

We left a short while later. It was almost 3 PM. Mike wanted to follow Red Creek back toward I-17 to see how close you could get to the airstrip with a truck. He had ideas about bringing the horses in. There was a ranch about 3 miles up the creek and a good road ran to it. The rest was rugged and would require a quad or hearty Jeep. Or horses — they are the best ground-based, off-road vehicles, after all.

Robin followed us for a while, then we went southwest and he split off to the northwest, toward Prescott.

The ride got bumpy as we flew over one mountain or canyon after another. We crossed I-17 right near Black Canyon City, then continued almost due west to Wickenburg.

Jack Enjoys the ViewJack spent most of the ride back lounging in the back of the helicopter, stretched out on both seats. He was tired after all his running around. Mike shot this photo of him looking out the window as we neared the airport. That’s Wickenburg down below — one of the motels and Denny’s, with the newly built apartments and condos below them. It almost looks as if Jack was enjoying the view. Almost.

Will we take Jack flying again? Of course! He passed the test and has earned his wings.

A Trip to Macworld Expo in San Francisco

I go to Macworld Expo, see new stuff, party with the Peachpitters, and still manage to find my hotel.

TehatchapiI took an America West — or is that US Airways? — flight from Phoenix to San Francisco on Thursday morning. The flight departed at around 8:15 AM and took off into the east into clear skies. The plane banked to the right until it was heading west, following I-10. I saw familiar sights out my window for most of the flight: Wickenburg, Harquahala Mountain, Salome, Bouse, the Colorado River, the road that runs past Rice and eventually past the north end of Joshua Tree National Park, the airport at Twentynine Palms, Big Bear Lake, Apple Valley, Edwards Air Force Base, and Rosamond. The jet took a route just south of the one I usually take when flying the helicopter from Wickenburg to California’s Central Valley, but because we were cruising at about 30,000 feet, I could see so much more. The lake at Rosamond seemed huge, the windmills on the Tehatchapi’s southern slopes were clearly visible. The pass was socked in on both sides with clouds, but the town of Tehatchapi, on top of the mountain, was perfectly clear (see photo). The central valley was completely filled with low clouds — so low that I don’t think general aviation flight would be possible. It reminded me of my scud-running adventure from last spring’s Georgetown, CA to Wickenburg, AZ flight. The tops of the clouds had a odd pattern to them, like waves far out on the ocean.

I spent the flight catching up with podcasts. Listening, that is — I’ve fallen far behind recording them. I listened to NPR’s story of the day episodes stretching back into mid December. When I was finished with those, I started on Slate Magazine podcasts. I did the crossword puzzle in the airplane magazine and attempted to take some notes for a presentation I needed to do later in the day. Then we started our approach to San Francisco and the mountains along the coast poked up their slopes through the clouds below us. There was green grass on some of the southern slopes; in a month or two, all the hills would be a rich green color there. But I seldom get to the California coast in the spring, so I’m accustomed to seeing the grass when it’s all dried out, making the hills look golden in the California sun.

The plane got to the gate at 9 AM local time. I had just one bag — a small backpack that held my PowerBook, some books I planned to give away at the end of my presentation, and clothes for the overnight stay and next day — so I didn’t have to go through the baggage claim ordeal. The bag was heavy, though, and it only seemed to get heavier as I made my way from the gate to the BART station.

BART, in case you don’t know, stands for Bay Area Rapid Transit. I used to take a cab from the airport to Moscone Hall for the Macworld Show, but I’d heard that BART went from the airport into the city and figured I’d give it a try. It was a relatively pleasant trip in a train car that reminded me more of a Long Island Railroad electrified train car than a New York City Subway car. The seats had upholstery and I don’t think they were quite as clean as they should have been. That gave the car a not-so-nice smell. But it wasn’t bad and I got used to it. I listened to my iPod and looked at the window when the train was above ground. It took about 30 minutes to get to what I thought was my stop: Montgomery Street. In reality, I should have gotten out one stop earlier, at Powell.

I came up from underground, got my bearings, realized I’d erred about the train stop, and started walking. San Francisco reminds me a bit of New York in that it has that “old city” feel. Lots of old buildings, many of which are pretty tall, some narrow streets, noisy traffic, homeless people on the sidewalks. The weather was pleasant and I was soon warming up inside my jacket.

My friend Ray called on my cell phone with a lead on a helicopter job for a construction company working along the Mexican border. I stopped and took notes on a receipt, wondering if I could be fortunate enough to get the job.

Advertising ScootersIt was less than a mile to Moscone and when I got there, I found the place relatively quiet. It was just after 10 AM and most attendees had already gone into the exhibit hall. I used a free pass to go through the registration process and get a badge, then crossed the street and went into the hall. I saw some scooters pulling advertising trailers — an Apple advertising gig, I knew. (I later got a photo of the scooters parked alongside the street.) My first order of business was to dump my jacket and the heavy bag at the Peachpit Press booth. It took me a while to find it, which was quite embarrassing because I actually walked right by it twice. They said it was near the Apple booth and they weren’t kidding. It was right inside one of the doorways to the exhibit hall, adjacent to the Apple booth.

I ran into a few people I knew, including Connie Jeung-Mills, the production person who’d worked on many of my books. I chatted with her while I stuffed my belongings under a table skirt in the booth, reserving an old Adobe canvas bag and note pad to carry while I walked the floor. I couldn’t believe the number of books in the booth. Most of the titles were about graphics and Web publishing, but I also the books I’ve written for them: Tiger, QuickBooks, and the little Visual QuickProject Guides for Word and Excel.

iPod-compatible carsI walked the floor. There was a lot to see, but not nearly as much as in the “old days,” when the show took up both sides of Moscone’s hall. I’ve never seen so many iPod accessories in my life. I think one out of every ten booths was peddling something for an iPod. Talk about trying to cash in on a craze. There were even iPod-compatible cars on display (see photo).

By 2:30, I was ready for a rest. I also needed to create my presentation, which was scheduled for 4 PM. I’m a last-minute person — I always have been — so I left the hall and found a seat on one of the balconies overlooking the hall entrance. It was nice and bright and airy up there and only about half the seats were occupied. Some people chatting, some people using laptops, other people eating or reading. I was very surprised to find that my PowerBook immediately connected to a wireless network when I opened it up. I was able to surf the net and check my e-mail.

I jotted down some notes about topics I thought my audience would be interested in. Mostly “cool features” stuff taken from my soon-to-be-published Informit.com article titled “Five Funky Finder Features.” (They may change the title, so if you go looking for it online, keep that in mind.)

While I worked, a man sitting nearby began complaining about how few seats were available. Two of the four balconies were blocked off, cutting the amount of available seats in half. But that didn’t seem to matter, since there were still empty seats to be had. One woman sitting nearby made the fatal error of acknowledging him. This resulted in him continuing his complaints. Another woman finally said to him, “I’m trying to enjoy my lunch and you’re ruining it.” He kept up for another minute or so before the woman, who was eating some kind of salad out of a Tupperware container, said, “No, I really mean it. Your complaints are ruining my lunch.” He seemed to get it then and he shut up. A while later, he closed up his iBook and went away. The whole exchange had been pretty funny. I was glad the woman had spoken up, though. He’d been quite a whiner and it was good when he finally shut up.

I did my presentation and it went well. I covered it in another blog entry.

Afterward, I met with Nancy and Cliff, two of my editors, for drinks and a bite to eat before the Peachpit Party. We wound up at an ethnic restaurant about two blocks away. Don’t ask me what kind of ethnic restaurant — I really don’t know. We ordered three different tappas dishes and a round of drinks. We talked business for a while — stuff I don’t want to cover here. Cliff left to go to an Apple party. Nancy and I finished our drinks and headed over to the Peachpit party.

Peachpit PartyI saw a bunch of Peachpit authors and editors and drank exactly one vodka martini more than I should have. The problem was, I still hadn’t checked into my hotel and I wasn’t exactly sure where it was. Or what it was called. Although I didn’t feel drunk after the third martini, I knew it was time to stop so I switched to water. Good thing I did. They must have used delayed reaction vodka in those drinks because I didn’t start feeling drunk until I was halfway done with my water. Still, I never got too drunk to realize that there were lots of people worse off than I was. Kim was probably the worst. It was her last day of work for Peachpit and she was partying a bit heartier than she should have.

I dug out the info for my hotel around 11:30, realized it was only about a block away from where Tom and Dori were staying, and walked with them. The walk took us down Market Street, which was surprisingly active with normal people (and a few weirdos) at that time of night. When we went our separate ways at Fourth Street, I felt safe enough to continue that last long block on my own. But it was good to get to my hotel and check in. I think the guys at the desk suspected that I wasn’t exactly sober, but they didn’t comment. I’m sure they’ve seen worse. And I wasn’t too drunk to realize that the guy had forgotten to give back my credit card with my room key.

I stayed at the Hotel Milano on Fifth Street. It’s an old hotel that has been fixed up. My seventh floor room had two windows that looked out across a narrow ventilation shaft to the two windows of a room in the next hallway. The room was big with a small television at one end and the king-sized bed at the other. I got undressed and into bed and watched a Seinfeld rerun for a while before turning off the television and going to sleep.

The only thing I’d forgotten to do was to check and adjust the thermostat. I was cold enough all night to sleep poorly but not cold enough to get up and do something about it. I hate that.

I woke at 5:30 AM local time. (I hate that, too.) I watched some Weather Channel and started work on this bLog entry before showering, getting dressed, and going out for breakfast. I wound up at the Marriott a few blocks away. I had a nice breakfast from the buffet, then walked back to my hotel and wasted more time on my computer. The show didn’t open until 10 AM and there was no reason to rush.

I packed and checked out at 9:30 AM. My bag was heavy, despite the fact that I’d given away the five books I’d brought with me from Arizona and I hadn’t bought anything else. I did have some product literature on board, but not enough to take the weight of five books.

At Moscone, I took a seat on one of the balconies to check my e-mail and my Web sites. The sites had been down the day before because of a computer glitch, but they were back online that morning. At 10 AM, I was back on the show floor, stashing my bag under a table at the Peachpit booth.

I bought a SightFlex stand for my iSight camera. Heavy.

I called America West and asked about an earlier flight. It was fully booked.

The Apple BoothI bothered an Apple booth guy for a demo of iWeb. It’s a cool little software package and I hope Peachpit lets me write a book about it. The guy who gave the demo was a software engineer and had written Pages, Apple’s word processing program. (I don’t know why they didn’t have him demo that.) I told him I used Word and had been using it for years. He told me that if I tried Pages, I’d switch. So I’ll try it again next week and see how I do with it. Word really is overkill sometimes. But, at the same time, I’m not too thrilled with the idea of software that works more like a page layout program than a word processor without giving you the control over page elements. If I recall, that was my main gripe about Pages.

The Apple BoothThe Apple Booth, by the way, was enormous. I think it gets bigger every year. There’s always a huge theater area (see photo) and this year there were 40-foot high “posters” of the new MacBook Pro (terrible name!) laptop and Intel processor iMac. I felt like a Lilliputian as I walked around the booth.

I wandered around the hall some more, killing time.

I ran into Sandee Cohen, Ted Landau, and Tonya Engst at the Peachpit booth and spent some time chatting with each of them. Then I grabbed my bag and made my exit. It was 11:30. I figured I’d stop by the Apple store before grabbing a bite to eat.

I dropped off my bag at a hotel along the way, checking it with a bellman. It felt good to get that damn thing off my back.

After looking around the Apple Store, I spent about an hour in Cody’s, a very nice bookstore near Market Street, not far from Virgin and the Apple Store. They were expecting President Carter as a speaker later in the day and the audience seats were already starting to fill with people who had nothing better to do with their time than spend the day sitting in a folding chair in the basement of a building, surrounded by books.

I walked up to Union Square, passing a handful of panhandlers and more than a handful of tourists. The cable car runs down Powell Street there and there are always a lot of tourists around. The area itself reminds me of lower Broadway in New York, with lots of discount luggage stores and shops that sell t-shirts and other tourist favorites. Kind of sleezy without being sleezy enough to scare people away.

Then I made my way to the Nikko, thinking about sushi for lunch. I was just about to go into the Japanese restaurant there when I noticed a Chinese dim sum restaurant across the street. I went there instead and had a very good lunch.

By that time, I’d had enough of San Francisco and was ready to head out to the airport. You know, I’ve been to San Francisco dozens of times and, unless you have a lot of time on your hands and comfortable walking shoes on your feet, it isn’t such a great place. I had neither and was more interested in finding a comfortable place to wait for my flight home than shopping or even walking around the city.

I retrieved my bag, gave the bellman a tip, and descended into the BART station. A while later, I was on a train bound for Daly City. I changed trains and got on another one for the airport. I listened to podcasts the entire time: Slate magazine and, when I was finished with those, Slate Explainer. The usual at the airport: get a boarding pass, go through security, find the gate, settle into a seat. I found a seat by an electric outlet and used it to charge up my PowerBook. For some reason, I expected to use it on the plane.

The plane was completely booked. Overbooked, in fact. They offered $400 worth of travel for volunteers, but I wasn’t interested. There was a woman in my seat when I boarded and, since it was my seat and not hers, she gave it up. When all the seats were filled, they closed the doors and we got underway.

I was asleep within ten minutes of departure.