Hiking the Horse Trails

Bringing back — and adding — memories.

The house I own with my soon-to-be ex-husband in Wickenburg, AZ sits on 2-1/2 acres of horse property on the very edge of town. The area is hilly and the house, which sits on the side of a hill, has plenty of privacy — indeed, there’s no real reason to close curtains or blinds. Beyond our neighbor’s 10-acre lot are more rolling hills in state and BLM (Bureau of Land Management) public land. The land is crisscrossed with dozens of horse trails that are in regular use during winter months by Rancho de los Caballeros wranglers and trail riders, as well as local horse owners.

When we first moved there, I distinctly remember hitting the trails with my dog, Spot. We hiked up the road to the trailhead just beyond my neighbor’s driveway, followed the trail to the fence, opened the gate, and slipped through. Then we hiked through the wash and up and down the hillsides past tall saguaro cacti and other desert vegetation planted and cared for by Mother Nature.

I remember climbing a trail out of the wash to a hilltop where a tall saguaro stood. Sometime in the distant past, its top had been broken off, possibly from strong wind or a lightning strike, about 3 to 4 feet off the ground. Three big cactus arms had grown up just below the break point, rising another 15 to 20 feet into the air. To me, the cactus looked like a hand reaching up with a thumb and two fingers pointing up to the sky. I have a picture of me there with my dog — I suppose my soon-to-be ex-husband must have taken it — with that big cactus behind us.

At that point, I got an idea of how vast the desert was and how many miles of trails there were to cover. And that’s when I realized I needed a horse.

The Horse Trails

I’d been riding with a friend on the other side of town, on the horse trails she rode from her house. The horse I always rode was a retired barrel racer named Misty. Misty had navicular disease, a malady caused by the constant pounding on her front feet as she raced. My friend eased her pain before and during rides with a dose of Phenylbutazone (“bute”). She was fine for trail riding and seemed to love getting out. I bought her from my friend for $500.

(I should mention here that within a year, I took Misty to a Scottsdale equine surgeon for a Palmar Digital Neurectomy, which pretty much ended the pain. Unfortunately, a few years later she suffered a bowed tendon in one front leg and an abscess in the opposite front foot. The combination of these two problems at the same time eventually led to her death. I replaced her with a beautiful paint horse named Cherokee.)

We set up a horse corral with a shade on our property and brought Misty over. We had a shed built to store hay and other feed and her saddle and other tack. And I started riding on those trails.

My soon-to-be ex-husband also wanted to ride. For a while, we took turns taking Misty out. But I wanted us to be able to ride together, so I bought him a horse, too. His name was Jake and he was a retired ranch horse. We added a fenced in area down in the wash below our house so the two horses would have more room to move around. During the rainy season, we’d bring them back up to the original corral just in case heavy rain caused the wash to flood.

In the years that followed, we’d take Misty and Jake out to explore the miles of trails, saddling up at the house and then just riding out. When my dog, Spot, died and was subsequently replaced with a Border Collie/Australian Shepherd mix named Jack, we’d all go out together, with Jack and sometimes even my neighbor’s dogs in tow.

We’d do this a few times a week just about every week. In the warm months, we’d do it early in the morning, before it got hot out. In the cooler months, we do it in the afternoon. My soon-to-be ex-husband said our life was like “living on vacation.” I couldn’t argue.

We did this for years and learned just about every trail within 5 air miles of the house.

Golf Course TrailWe gave the trails names. The Golf Course Trail was the one that went from the gate to Rancho de los Caballeros’ golf course. Deer Valley Trail was the one that rode through a valley where we almost always saw deer on a morning ride. Danny’s Trail was the one our neighbor, Danny, showed us on the only time he went riding with us. The Ridge Ride was the one that stretched along a high ridge overlooking the golf course and points north on one side and the big, empty desert and points south on the other side. Yucca Valley was the strip of sandy wash filled with an unusually large number of yucca plants.

Places had names, too. The Ball Field, for example, was a flat area of mostly cleared desert roughly the shape of a baseball diamond. For a week or two in the spring, it would be carpeted with California poppies.

We’d plan a ride using these names — for example, “let’s take the Golf Course Trail to Yucca Valley and up to the Ridge Ride and come back through the Ball Field.” We both knew exactly where we were going to go.

The horses knew the trails, too. Every time we came to an intersection, they’d try to get us to turn in the direction of home. But if we wanted to keep riding out, we’d stubbornly pull them the other way. At the next intersection, the same thing would happen.

We’d gauge the length of our rides by the number of gates we had to pass through. An average ride was two gates: the first gate and a second one about two trail miles away. A long ride was three gates.

As the years went by, however, we began riding less and less frequently. I developed an interest in flying and began building a business around it. My soon-to-be ex-husband took a job in Phoenix and, after buying a condo down there, was gone most of the week. Jake eventually got too old to ride, got sick, and had to be put down. With me gone all summer and my soon-to-be ex gone all week, it seemed silly to replace him. So we found a home for Cherokee (Misty’s replacement), gave away the remaining horse feed, and closed up the tack shed.

In all, we’d been horse owners for about 10 years.

Hiking the Horse Trails

Although our horses were gone, the horse trails remained, maintained by the wranglers at Rancho de los Caballeros. I just didn’t get any opportunity to see them.

Time passed. I went away this past summer and lost 45 pounds. Hiking became an important part of my life, a way to get exercise and enjoy the outdoors with my dog and friends. I began hiking regularly with a Meetup group (and others). When the hiking host of the Meetup group mentioned that he wanted to do a hike in Wickenburg, I volunteered to lead a hike on the horse trails behind my house.

Of course, to do that, I had to make sure I remembered the horse trails. And I had to make sure I could put together an interesting route 3 to 4 miles in length, something we could cover at a slow to medium pace in a few hours. That means I had to hike the trails myself in advance.

I called my friend, Alta, and invited her to join me on a hike. We went out at 9 AM on a Thursday morning — just me, Alta, and Penny the Tiny Dog. I wanted to take the group through the slot canyon accessible from about a half mile down the wash from our house, so that’s the way we went. I soon realized that a half mile in sandy wash followed by a mile snaking up a narrow, rocky canyon didn’t make for a good hike. So after climbing out of the canyon, I extended the hike to familiarize myself with the trails I had once known so well.

And that’s when the memories started kicking in. You see, the only times I’d been on all those trails were with my horse and usually with my soon-to-be ex-husband and long-gone dog. Although the memories of all those trail rides were good ones, they were tainted by the events of the past six months — namely, my husband’s lies and betrayals. I remembered the rides, I remembered the great times we’d had out there on horseback. But none of that jived with the way my husband had discarded me, after 29 years together, for a woman he’d met only weeks before on the Internet. All those good memories became painful. More than a few times, hiking with Alta that day, I found myself in tears.

Vulture PeakAs we reached the highest point on the Ridge Ride trail and stopped to look out over the desert, I remembered toasting the new year with my husband and friends on New Year’s Day rides. I began to regret volunteering to take my new friends on these trails. Would I be able to keep it together that day? Would the pain I felt so intensely be noticed by my companions?

I didn’t have much time to think about it. The day after our trial hike, I was caught up in more divorce bullshit. First, returning the truck that my soon-to-be ex had assured me several times I’d be able to keep in the settlement. Then, the next day, going to our Phoenix condo to beg him to allow me to take home my things so I could pack them. Later the same day, watching him retrieve random belongings from our Wickenburg house during an “inspection” he’d demanded by using lies to convince the court that his possessions were in danger of damage or theft. By the woman he’d lived with for 29 years. He apparently trusted me even less than I now trusted him. The difference: I’d done nothing to earn that mistrust. He’d been lying to me for months, if not years.

More pain, more tears.

I spent Sunday hiking with my Meetup friends again and flying Santa Claus to an appearance at Deer Valley Airport Restaurant. It did a world of good to help keep my mind off my divorce ordeal.

On Sunday, the hike host reminded me that he needed a description and photos of the hike. When I emailed the description and two photos to him on Monday, he said he’d try to get them online quickly. They appeared Tuesday and folks started signing up for the hike.

In the end, on Sunday morning, we had just eight hikers and seven (!) dogs.

Atheist HikersI led the group out onto the trail, feeling a weird mix of emotions. But as we hiked and as I talked about the things we were seeing, the ghosts from the past stayed away. Although I thought about those long ago horseback rides, I was more focused on sharing the trails — my trails — with my friends, pointing out plants and rocks and other items of interest. I realized, as we made the final ascent to the highest point on the Ridge Ride trail, that bringing my friends along helped me make new memories of the trails, fresh memories that helped the old ones — and the pain they conjured — fade away.

Cactus PortraitThe only time I got teary-eyed is when I stopped at that “three-finger cactus” and asked one of my friends to take a picture of me with my dog. Even then, I don’t think anyone noticed the tears behind my sunglasses.

My companions enjoyed the hike. It was the right difficulty (relatively easy) and right length (4-1/2 miles) for the group. And the pot luck lunch at my house afterward really completed the day.

But what I got out of the hike is something far more valuable than a day out with friends: I got a chance to reclaim the horse trails with new memories.

Wild Horses: Two Views from Above

Two frame grabs from the camera system on my helicopter.

Thought I’d share these in a quick post, mostly to archive them here for the future.

Last Tuesday, I went flying with two GoPro Hero cameras set up and shooting video. (Yes, I know I am a dork.) One was the designated “nose cam” on the nose of the helicopter and the other was the designated “cockpit cam” inside the cabin of the helicopter. I shared some of the video from that flight’s nose cam here. I also shared a few still images on Twitter.

Today, I finally got around to looking at the cockpit cam video. The trouble with the positioning of that camera is that if the sun is behind the helicopter — which is the best angle for the nose cam — the camera exposes for the inside of the cockpit and the view outside the windows is overexposed. If the sun is in front of the helicopter, the glare through the windows highlights every single defect in the plexiglas and makes the view difficult to see. So the best light is side lighting, which is also pretty good for the nose cam.

I flew for an hour and didn’t feel like spending a hour looking at video today. So I just hopped around the footage, looking for a nice view to share. And guess what I found? The same view of wild horses that I’d shared on Twitter the other day from the nose cam.

I thought it might be interesting to present them together. Here are the two shots. There are four horses on the left side of the river in the water and another on the riverbank nearby.

Wild Horses, as seen from nose cam

Wild Horses, as seen from Inside Cockpit

I saw so many wild horses on that flight that, for a few minutes, I thought about offering a Wild Horses Tour through Flying M Air. But no, this is a treat I’d prefer to keep as a bonus for my existing tours in the area.

On Volunteering

Twenty hours this weekend.

This weekend, I spent a total of about 20 hours as a volunteer on the annual Land of the Sun Endurance Ride in Wickenburg, AZ. This was my fifth or sixth year as a volunteer — I’ve lost count — and it’s one of the feel-good things I do for my community.

The event, which is sponsored by the Wickenburg Horsemen’s Association, depends upon volunteers to be a success. There are countless jobs to be done, from marking and grooming the 50 miles of horse trails to marking numbers on the butts of horses. There are folks who handle registration paperwork for this AERC-sanctioned event, folks who order t-shirts and sweatshirts and prizes, folks who handle special requests and complaints. There are folks who buy or prepare the food for attendees, put it out on long tables, and clean up after every meal. There are folks who put out hay and bran and carrots for the horses, folks who fill the water troughs at vet checks, and folks who stand ready with clipboards while paid veterinarians call out horse vital signs. There are folks who check off the numbers of riders as they leave and as they return, and folks who track down riders who haven’t come in yet. There are folks who pick up injured — or just plain tired — riders and horses who are dropping out of the event, using trucks and horse trailers. And there are even folks just hanging around every 3 or 4 miles out on the desert trails, handing out water bottles to riders as they pass. These are just some of the jobs. There are doubtlessly many others I don’t even know about.

What I like about volunteering at the endurance ride is that I’m truly needed and appreciated as a volunteer. I come in and do my job(s). I’m not micromanaged or criticized. And I really get a charge out of the thanks I get from participants just for doing what I’m supposed to.

Each year I generally perform two or three tasks:

  • Make my famous (around here, anyway) vegetarian bean soup. A bunch of volunteers make soup, stew, or chili, but I seem to be the only one who makes a vegetarian dish. It’s actually gotten a few people to think I’m a vegetarian. I’m not. But I recognize that many of the riders are. And when the weather is less than perfect, it’s nice to be able to have a hot and hearty meal on the hour-long break between 25-mile ride segments or at the end of the 25-mile ride. This year, the weather was pretty good and I took home 1/3 crock pot of soup. I’ll freeze it and enjoy it the rest of the winter.
  • Marking Horse ButtsUse large crayon-like markers to write horse entry numbers on the butt ends of horses. It’s not usually a difficult task — most horses have been through this more times than I have and have no problem with strangers marking up their butts. But a few horses are real dancers that make the job difficult. And every once in a while, I’ll encounter a kicker. Their riders get the crayon to mark them. I usually do this from 2 to 6 PM the day before the race.
  • Record the numbers and times of 50-mile riders who return to the main base after their first 25-miles. I do this with another one or two volunteers. My job is usually to write the entry number and time on a blue ticket that I hand to each 50-miler as he or she crosses the 25-mile finish. The rider then takes care of his or her horse and visits a vet to be pulsed down. (There are lots of vets on this ride; no horse is allowed to leave a vet check if it can’t meet certain health requirements.) I usually work with someone who sits at a table and records this same information on a master sheet and another person a bit up the road who uses a radio to tell us who is on the way.

This year, I did all three tasks. I also stuck around to record the 25-milers finish and the 50-miler finish. When I left at 6:30 PM — which was well after sunset — all of the riders had returned except one. She’d refused a lift from a horse trailer and had insisted on finishing the race in the dark. She was riding with the “drag riders” — folks whose volunteer job was to ride portions of the trail, remove marking ribbons, pick up lost items, and make sure no one was left behind. A vet and three volunteers were left to wait for her; everyone else had gone to the award dinner in town.

Endurance RidersIt was a long day for me. I started at 6:30 AM, in the dark, to help put out breakfast and tidy up the departure area after the 50-milers left at 7 AM and the 25-milers left at 8 AM. I also set up a few feed stations with hay and carrots not far from the huge water trough there. I noticed a definite scarcity of volunteers — surely there were more at the rodeo grounds in previous years. The woman who was supposed to help me record the incoming riders never showed up, so a spare volunteer was put to the task. And although I’d told Nancy, who runs the whole shebang, that I’d record the in-times for all riders rather than just the first loop for the 50-milers, I stupidly didn’t realize that I’d have to record the 50-milers again after their second loop. That’s why my day was so long. It wasn’t a big deal — and it was certainly made quite pleasant by the few hours I spent chatting with one of the other volunteers as we called in arriving horses — but it was a very long day for me. I’m not accustomed to being on my feet that long.

One of the things the other volunteer and I discussed was the shortage of volunteers at the rodeo grounds. It seems that each year, there’s a group of core volunteers who show up to perform their tasks. Then there are a number of “volunteers” who show up to watch the goings-on at the rodeo grounds and help themselves to breakfast or lunch before disappearing. These same people often have their hand out for the dinner coupon that volunteers get so they can join in the evening’s festivities after the event. And many of them are sure to walk away with a volunteer t-shirt or sweatshirt.

While I certainly don’t expect association members to volunteer 12-hour days for the event, I don’t see why more of them couldn’t give 3 or 4 hours of their time. The timing in, which I do every year (except the one year I was sick), is usually done in shifts; this year, the same three people worked the finish line from the first arrival at 9:40 AM to nearly the last arrival at 5:30 PM. I really feel bad for the spare volunteer who had to fill in for the woman who didn’t show up — surely she got more than she bargained for. There were likely other volunteer stations that could have benefitted from multiple shifts of volunteers. Where were these people? The event is sponsored by the association. Any net proceeds from the event go to the organization. They all benefit from the hard work of a handful of people.

I’m sure this isn’t an uncommon thing in clubs and other groups. It’s just unfortunate that the weight of an entire organization has to be borne by a small portion of its members.

And, truth be told, some of us aren’t even members anymore.

Anyway, the event was a huge success, judging from the comments of riders I spoke to as they crossed the finish line. The trails were well marked and it was a beautiful day for riding. Of the 136 original entries, only about 12 were pulled due to horse or rider problems. It seemed as if the event went off without a hitch, which is great for Nancy.

I do want to take the opportunity here to complement and congratulate Nancy for another job well done. Nancy is a local business owner with her own responsibilities, yet she takes on the task of managing this ride every year. I can’t imagine the stress of it all. She does an amazing job and it’s a real honor and pleasure to do my part to help her out.

And yes, I’ll be back to make soup, mark butts, and time in riders next January.

On the Road Again

Traveling again.

If you’re wondering why you haven’t heard from me here in a while, it’s because I’ve been traveling. I’m doing one of my Southwest Circle Helicopter Adventures in northern Arizona, accompanied by a video crew and staff writer for a respected travel magazine.

The goal of this trip is to gather about 90% of the video needed to create three individual broadcast-length videos, each of which will be made available on DVD. It’s a huge project and, so far, we have at least 20 hours of raw video footage to wade through.

I’m flying with a door off and a video guy on board taking glare-free video images of what we fly over. He also has at least two POV.1 cameras mounted inside the helicopter at all times. The other video on the ground is “chasing” us — actually, he’s getting a big head start each day to drive to the airport where we’ll land before we arrive — and taking video of us landing. Then there are cameras whirring all over the place on the ground.

Wild HorsesThe writer is sitting up front beside me, taking notes and using my Nikon D80 to shoot images of what she sees. Although a good portion of the shots have some unfortunate glare — not much you can do about that when shooting through Plexiglas — many of them are really good. Like this shot she took of a herd of wild horses we overflew on the Navajo Reservation two days ago.

It’s been a busy week so far. Although I’m trying to demonstrate to the writer what my Southwest Circle Helicopter Adventure is all about, I’m also working with the video crew to make sure we capture all of the footage we need for our three videos. I’m hoping she understands that my usual clients won’t be rushing around like nuts all day.

Antelpe CanyonI’m treating myself to a few of the activities my excursion guests get to enjoy. For example, on Tuesday, I joined the crew for a boat ride on Lake Powell that visited the “business side” of the Glen Canyon Dam before squeezing about a mile up Antelope Canyon (see photo) and gliding up Navajo Canyon for a look at the “tapestry” of desert varnish on some cliff walls. I skipped the Sedona Jeep tour and Monument Valley tour to work with one of the video guys or just rest up. Normally, while my guest are touring, I’m scrambling to get the luggage into their hotel room and confirming reservations for the next day. You might imagine how tired I am after 6 days of playing pilot and baggage handler.

At this moment, however, I’m sitting at the dining table of a double-wide mobile home near Goulding’s Lodge in Monument Valley. (Long story; believe it or not, the only lodging we cold get here in MV was in a pair of mobile homes that are part of the lodge.) I have the front drapes drawn aside so I can watch the eastern sky brighten for what promises to be a classic silhouetted butte sunrise. I always enjoy my dawns here at MV. Seeing the famous buttes outside my window is always surreal.

Today, we were scheduled to fly down to Winslow for lunch, then tour Meteor Crater and the Grand Falls of the Little Colorado River. Normally, the Southwest Circle Helicopter Adventure takes this route on the way to its last overnight stop at Flagstaff. But today we’ll probably go straight back to Page. I have four aerial photo shoots at Page starting on Friday morning; the money I make doing them will pay for this video excursion. We’ll do more video between those flights. Then we’ll hit the Crater, Falls, and Flagstaff on our way back to the Phoenix area on Sunday.

It’s a big trip and a bunch of huge projects. Just the kind of thing to keep me busy between flights for the winter season. But if all works well and as planned, I might be flying this route weekly in the coming spring and fall — with real paying passengers to take care of along the way.

Paint Quarter Horse for Sale

We make it official.

Today, I created a flyer to sell my horse, Cherokee. Here’s the text and photo:

Paint Quarter Horse for Sale

Cherokee

Cherokee is an approximately 18-year-old registered Paint Quarter Horse gelding. (We don’t have his papers, but can get them; his registered name is “Up Steps a Devil.”)

He is well-behaved and extremely friendly. He’s a good trail horse with plenty of experience riding alone and with large groups. If you ride with the Wickenburg Horsemen’s Association, you may have seen him on some of the rides or in the Gold Rush Days Parade. He’s been trained for a rider to open gates while on horseback. He loads well, has no known health problems, and is really beautiful.

We’re selling Cherokee because we’ve recently had to put down his stall mate, Jake, who was about 30 years old and had developed age-related health problems. We’ve made the decision to do more traveling and have decided to get out of horse ownership for a while.

January 2009 Update: Cherokee has been sold. His new owners live in Wickenburg, so if you ride here in town, you may see him out on the trail once in a while. We’ll miss him terribly, but it’s better for him to get out and ride and for us to shed excess responsibilities at this time.