La Jolla Winter Sunset

New Years Eve at the beach.

Mike and I spent New Year’s Eve 2004/05 in the San Diego, CA area, in a town on the coast called La Jolla (pronounced la hoy-ya). It was an escape from home, made possible by our friends John and Lorna (hi, Lorna!) who house-sat for us and watched our menagerie (and taught Alex the Bird to say “maniac”).

La Jolla, CAOur hotel was on the beach, with a private patio overlooking the ocean. It was very pleasant. I took this photo just after sunset one evening.

It rained a bunch when we first got there — Southern California was having all kinds of flooding problems — but cleared up for the rest of the stay. We visited San Diego, Coronado Island, and a great little aviation museum in a San Diego park. Then we drove back to Wickenburg on back roads along the Mexican border. It was a great trip, a nice getaway.

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Antelope Canyon

An incredible slot canyon near Page, AZ.

Antelope Canyon from the airAntelope Canyon is a narrow slot canyon, about 1/4 miles long, that carves its way through a huge sandstone rock formation that would otherwise block Antelope Wash. From the air, it isn’t very impressive at all — just a wide, sandy wash with a big rock in it — a rock that happens to have a slit carved down its middle. (This shot was taken in September, from the south looking north.) But from the ground, it’s something amazing. A cool, isolated retreat from the desert heat.

At least it would be if it weren’t such a tourist attraction.

In all fairness, you can still get a feeling of isolation at Antelope Canyon. Just find a quiet spot somewhere in the middle of the slot and wait there patiently until the tour groups walk through and come back. You’ll hear the echo of voices, sometimes hushed, and see the laser pointers of the Navajo guides pointing out what the gringos want to see: the Liberty Bell, the bear, Abe Lincoln’s profile. But even that fades away as the guide leaves her charges to explore on their own. Most folks don’t last long. It’s a beautiful place, but where are the gift shops? Few stop to appreciate what they’re seeing — the force of water cutting through stone over thousands of years. When they wander back out to the tour truck, they leave the canyon in silence for you and the dedicated photographers who have also waited. Enjoy this fleeting moment; another tour truck is on its way.

Antelope CanyonI’ve been to Antelope Canyon twice. I think I took this photo on the first trip. I didn’t have a tripod — which is highly recommended for photography — on either trip, but I still managed to get one or two clear shots.

I also got to experience the quiet calm of the canyon for a few moments as I leaned up against one of its smooth, cool walls in the shadows and watched the rays of light play on the dust particles hanging in the air. I jotted down these notes in a small notebook I had with me, trying to capture the feeling of the moment:

Sandstone swirls [smooth]
Carved cracks open to the sky
80,000 years
Cedar trees from 40 miles away
An owl’s nest
Echoes in German
A cool seat
Fine pink sand
The floor rises and falls
Too dark for photos
Shafts of reflected light
A bird calls far above [insistent]
Tumbleweed hangs overhead
The light turns the paper blue
Here comes a breeze
A shower of sand
Stripes
Let your eyes adjust and all is revealed.

The best time to visit Antelope Canyon is midday, midweek, off-season. Although midday is good for photography and popular with tourists, there are always fewer tourists on weekdays during the off-season months. I’m willing to bet that March and September are good. I’ll try it one of these days and let you know.

The Kaibab Plateau

Along the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

My 2004 Jeep road trip took me to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. But rather than sticking to the paved roads, I explored many of the unpaved forest roads that wind through the tall pines and aspens. After all, I was driving a Jeep. Why would anyone subject herself to long distance highway driving in a Jeep if there wasn’t the reward of off-pavement travel in the immediate future?

The Kaibab Plateau in AutumnIt was autumn — third week in September, to be exact — and the aspen trees on the Kaibab Plateau were turning color. Aspens turn yellow in the fall and this shot shows them interspersed with the ponderosa pines that also grow there.

For this trip, I had my old GPS, which only holds about 4-5 topo maps in its database. I’d programmed in the ones for the North Rim area, so I had a highly detailed navigational aid for the maze of roads there. After spending the night in a cabin on the North Rim, I followed forest roads out to various lookout points on the North Rim that most tourists never see. My goal was to see from the ground what I saw from the air when I flew helicopter tours. I saw that and so much more. And in the hours I drove in Grand Canyon National Park — the most popular national park in America — I saw only one other person.

He was in a Jeep, too.

I Work Hard…

…in a beautiful place.

If you’ve been following this blog, you may have read about a gig I did a few months ago for a group of photographers at Lake Powell. You may also have seen the photo one of the photographers sent from our flight together.

This past weekend I did it again — in a big way. I made a total of five flights (over two days) with two or three photographers on board to photograph the lake and the surrounding area. And this time, the conditions were perfect, with constantly varying light and clouds.

It was hard work in a beautiful place.

Lake Powell
Lake Powell in the morning.

It was hard work to meet some of the photographers’ demands. I did a huge amount of out-of-ground effect hovering at altitudes as high as 7,000 feet with as many as four people on board. Although I don’t have my helicopter’s performance charts memorized, I do know approximately what’s possible when the helicopter is flown by a test pilot with thousands of hours. I am not a test pilot and I don’t have thousands of hours. So when I was able to hold those high hovers for a few minutes at a time — just long enough to take the shots — I was pretty surprised.

Rainbow Bridge
Rainbow Bridge.

I did get into settling with power conditions on three occasions. In two of them, I caught it quickly, said “Gotta go,” into the intercom, and pulled out of it before the descent rate got out of hand. But on one occasion, the descent rate got to 700 fpm before I attempted a recovery and it got all the way up to 1,500 fpm. (It was just like a training exercise, when you purposely let things get bad before you recover.) We were very high over the Colorado River at the time and there weren’t any other aircraft around, so it wasn’t a dangerous situation once I started recovery. But it was a bit unsettling, at least for me. My passengers had no clue that we were dropping out of the sky, despite those vibrations that tipped me off. On subsequent flights, I was a bit more careful not to get into that situation and I refused to hover in locations where we were too close to earth for a recovery if one was needed.

One of my passengers was extremely demanding and often required high hovers. He’d say “Stop in this place,” expecting me to somehow drop from 80 knots to a standstill 2,000 feet over the lake and turn the helicopter to the exact heading he needed to frame his shots. I say shots because this photographer liked to take multiple images that he could stitch together in his computer to make one big image. It was important that I didn’t move while he was snapping away. Unfortunately, he usually started snapping before I was at a complete stop. I’d be all set up for him to start when he was finished. Later this week, when he gets into his digital darkroom, he’ll see the movement in the shots because the stitching won’t work and he’ll blame me for moving. Go figure.

Fortunately, most of the others were satisfied with me slowing down and circling certain areas.

Reflection Canyon
Reflection Canyon on Lake Powell.

Another challenge of these flights was the tour airplane traffic. On my last gig at the lake, we’d been the only aircraft over the lake. But this time, the tour planes were flying. And they didn’t fly alone. They’d take off in packs, following a set route I didn’t know, using reporting points that were only vaguely familiar. Worst of all, they were flying right around my altitude, 5500 to 6000 feet. After my first two flights, I chatted with one of the pilots to establish things like flight altitudes, route, and reporting frequency for uplake activities. I felt better about it then. But every time a pack of them would take off from Page, I’d do my best to be out of their way.

At one point, we were at the dam taking pictures at about 5200 feet when the planes launched. The dam was the first reporting point on their route and they usually were flying at about 5,000 feet when they got there. I listened as about five of them took off. My boss passenger was fine-tuning my position in the sky over the lake near the dam and all I could think about was the planes coming my way. They would pass me on their way to Horseshoe Bend and pass me again on their way from there to the Marina. That’s ten possible conflicts. I reported my position and kept a lookout, but when one plane reported that he saw me and I saw him take what looked like evasive action to avoid me, I told my passengers we were going to get out of the way until they were gone. I dropped down to 4,500 feet, which was only about 300 feet above the river’s cliff walls, and circled as they all headed to Horseshoe bend. Then I climbed through 6500 feet, which was above their altitude in that area and we resumed work. It was weird seeing one of the planes pass directly beneath me, about 700 feet down, as I slowly circled Horseshoe Bend.

Glen Canyon Dam
Glen Canyon Dam.

All this time, my R44 Raven II performed flawlessly. I had climb rates of up to 800 fpm with four people on board. We were flying in the 5000+ feet neighborhood and it was about 80°F outside.

Each flight was about 90 minutes long. I’d load up enough fuel for a little over 2 hours to keep us as light as possible. On the one flight that I had only two passengers, I topped off the tanks. That flight went nearly 2 hours and was extremely strenuous — the boss passenger was the most demanding photographer. I didn’t realize it until after the flight, but I’d had a “death grip” around the cyclic and could barely open my hand when we landed. My whole right arm was stiff and my shoulder ached. I was so tensed up that it took a hot shower and good dose of ibuprofen to loosen me up.

San Juan River
The San Juan River near its confluence with the Colorado River on Lake Powell.

Mike, who’d accompanied me to Page for the weekend, spent the time hanging around the marina and hotel, walking around, swimming, and watching them put giant houseboats in the water. He couldn’t understand why I was so tired at the end of each pair of flights. To him, I was just flying around. But I really was working hard.

Wahweap Marina on Lake Powell
Wahweap Marina on Lake Powell.

At the end of the two days and five flights, I had over 11 hours of billable time. The resulting revenue stream is enough to cover all of Flying M Air’s fixed expenses for two months. So I’m not complaining about hard work. It was worth it and I’d certainly do it again.

But the most frustrating thing about the weekend was the missed opportunities for taking amazing photos. Although I don’t consider myself a great photographer, I don’t think I’m a bad one. But I was flying and needed both hands to do my job for most of each flight. Taking photos was out of the question. It was killing me to see all this great scenery and not be able to capture my own images.

So on Sunday morning, when we left Page, we flew uplake with Mike’s door off. He took the photos you see here in this entry. I’ll be using some of them to illustrate the area on Flying M Air’s Web site for the Southwest Circle Helicopter Adventure excursion.

I can’t wait until he gets his helicopter rating so he can fly while I snap the photos.

Navajo Homestead

Near the Vermilion Cliffs.

In 2004, in the autumn, I took a road trip in Arizona with my Jeep. The idea was to duplicate a trip I’d taken the year before in my little helcopter. On that trip, I’d flown around the Grand Canyon airspace (which is highly regulated) with stops at Page and Bar 10 Ranch. Mike was supposed to go with me, but there were some difficulties with the dog, who he insisted on bringing, so the two of them flew back to the Grand Canyon where he’d left his truck, leaving me to finish the trip alone.

Navajo Homestead Near the Vermilion CliffsOn the second day of the trip, I left Page and headed out toward Marble Canyon on the Colorado River, just downstream from the Glen Canyon Dam. It was early morning and the sun was casting a golden light over the landscape. I saw this abandoned Navajo homestead on the west side of the road with the Vermilion Cliffs in the background. It was a really beautiful sight, one certainly worth a photograph.

But I didn’t stop to take the picture.

The rest of the trip, I thought about this scene and wished I’d taken the picture. Days later, after filling my Jeep with dust on the 60-mile dirt road between Fredonia and Toroweap and the 85-mile dirt road from Bar 10 Ranch to St. George, UT, I made my way back to Page where I spent the night again. This time, when I left early in the morning, I made a detour back to this spot and took the photo I wished I’d taken on day 2. It was worth it.

The Vermilion Cliffs, which were obviously named for their color, are on the far eastern end of the Grand Canyon. When you drive to the North Rim from Page, you drive along a road that runs near their base. When I flew at the Grand Canyon and did the eastern end tour, I’d often point out the cliffs to my passengers.

If you’re a pilot and want to explore the southwest with your airplane or helicopter, you can land at one of two airports not far from the road. My favorite is Marble Canyon because it’s right across the street from a motel and restaurant, making it an ideal place to stop for a meal or the night. In fact, when I made my helicopter trip in 2003, that’s where I spent the night after filling up with fuel at Page.

Arizona, Navajo, photo