Navajo Homestead

Near the Vermilion Cliffs.

In 2004, in the autumn, I took a road trip in Arizona with my Jeep. The idea was to duplicate a trip I’d taken the year before in my little helcopter. On that trip, I’d flown around the Grand Canyon airspace (which is highly regulated) with stops at Page and Bar 10 Ranch. Mike was supposed to go with me, but there were some difficulties with the dog, who he insisted on bringing, so the two of them flew back to the Grand Canyon where he’d left his truck, leaving me to finish the trip alone.

Navajo Homestead Near the Vermilion CliffsOn the second day of the trip, I left Page and headed out toward Marble Canyon on the Colorado River, just downstream from the Glen Canyon Dam. It was early morning and the sun was casting a golden light over the landscape. I saw this abandoned Navajo homestead on the west side of the road with the Vermilion Cliffs in the background. It was a really beautiful sight, one certainly worth a photograph.

But I didn’t stop to take the picture.

The rest of the trip, I thought about this scene and wished I’d taken the picture. Days later, after filling my Jeep with dust on the 60-mile dirt road between Fredonia and Toroweap and the 85-mile dirt road from Bar 10 Ranch to St. George, UT, I made my way back to Page where I spent the night again. This time, when I left early in the morning, I made a detour back to this spot and took the photo I wished I’d taken on day 2. It was worth it.

The Vermilion Cliffs, which were obviously named for their color, are on the far eastern end of the Grand Canyon. When you drive to the North Rim from Page, you drive along a road that runs near their base. When I flew at the Grand Canyon and did the eastern end tour, I’d often point out the cliffs to my passengers.

If you’re a pilot and want to explore the southwest with your airplane or helicopter, you can land at one of two airports not far from the road. My favorite is Marble Canyon because it’s right across the street from a motel and restaurant, making it an ideal place to stop for a meal or the night. In fact, when I made my helicopter trip in 2003, that’s where I spent the night after filling up with fuel at Page.

Arizona, Navajo, photo

Havasu Creek

Just downstream from the famous falls.

I’ve been to Havasu Falls twice and Supai three times.

This photo was taken on the first trip. It was a photo tour with Arizona Highways magazine. They took us by van to Havasu Hilltop, the closest place you can get to by car. From there, we took a 6-minute helicopter flight down into the canyon. We set down in a field in Supai. I clearly remember being amazed by the fact that the horses we flew over didn’t seem the least bit concerned about a helicopter flying 30 feet over their heads on landing.

Supai, the indian village at the bottom of Havasu Canyon, is an amazing place. Accessible only by foot, horse/muleback, or helicopter, it’s one of the most remote settlements in this country. And although the Havasu tribe which lives there used to sustain itself by farming, tourism has become its top source of revenue.

What was sad to me about Supai were the native people themselves. The vast majority were obese. I’m not talking about fat, I’m talking about really fat. Their bodies just can’t metabolize the kinds of foods we eat — which is the kind of food they now eat. As a result, they are some of the fattest people I’ve ever seen.

Which brings to mind the donut man. He was an older indian guy who rode around on horseback, delivering donuts. He had plenty of takers.

Havasu CreekAnyway, Havasu is famous for its waterfalls. The most famous is Havasu Falls, but there’s also Navajo Falls (upstream) and Mooney Falls (downstream, named for a guy who died trying to descend them). I don’t have pictures of any of the falls in the header of this site because falls are vertical and this header needs horizontal shots. So I have this shot, taken near our campsite on Havasu Creek.

I was with the Arizona Highways group, which was being handled by an outfitter. The outfitter had its own private camp just outside the campground managed by the Havasu indians. I was alone and had my own private tent, which was nice. It was right beside Havasu Creek, which was really nice. What wasn’t nice was the lack of showers (which had been mentioned in the brochure) and the outhouses in the campground. They were filthy. I used the one without a door because it was cleanest — most folks weren’t interested in taking a dump in a toilet without a door. But I used it early in the morning, before most folks were awake, and I rather liked the fact that it didn’t stink to high heaven like the rest of them.

I took a lot of nice photos on the trip but didn’t really learn much. Except the fact that some people are really into amateur photography.

A few weeks later, I returned in a Papillon helicopter, riding along on a regularly scheduled flight to Supai. Although I helped the passengers unload, I never left the landing zone. I dreamed about flying that route, but it never happened.

About a month after that, Mike and I rode standby on another Papillon flight. We hiked all the way down to Mooney Falls. It was a great trip and I hope to do it again someday. But not in the summer when it’s so darn hot. May would be nice.

Havasu, creek, falls, Havasupai, Supai, Arizona, photo

The Grand Canyon

With clouds.

Years ago, Mike’s Mom and Dad went to the Grand Canyon. They’d been in Phoenix on some kind of vacation and had taken a bus on a daytrip to the canyon. The whole time they were there, the canyon was full of clouds and they didn’t get a chance to see the view.

The Grand Canyon with CloudsA few years later, in February, I took my brother to the Canyon. We spent two nights in rooms on the rim and each morning, we went out to watch the sun rise. Each morning, the canyon was full of clouds. I don’t think my brother saw the inside of the canyon at all on that trip. But he did tell my mother that it was the coldest place on earth.

This shot was taken in February 2005 when we were there with our friends John and Lorna (hi again, Lorna!). I can’t remember if this was before or after our overnight mule trip. I do remember that it was cold and overcast and rainy. The light was really interesting and the clouds made the canyon look special. This isn’t a tourist photo. You can get those anytime you go. This is a real Canyon photo, one that shows one of the canyon’s moods.

RedBubbleThis photo is available for sale as cards, laminated prints, mounted prints, or framed prints from RedBubble.

The Grand Canyon

From the inside.

In February 2005 Mike and I made our second overnight mule trip into the Grand Canyon. We went with our friends John and Lorna from Maine (Hi, Lorna!) and spent two nights at Phantom Ranch.

Inside the Grand CanyonAlthough it’s not a difficult trip, it is a long one. Although Mike and I have horses and ride once in a while (not as often as we used to, I’m afraid), this is 4 to 5 hours in the saddle — enough to make anyone sore. But it’s worth it. Only a tiny percentage of the millions of people who visit the Grand Canyon each year actually descend into the canyon. This is one of the “easy” ways to do it. And you get a whole different view of the canyon once you get below the rim.

Phantom Ranch is nice, too. Stone cottages, Bright Angel Creek, lots of healthy hikers and campers from all over the world going through.

This photo was taken during our full day down in the Canyon. We went for a hike on a trail that climbed up from the river and made its way upriver. After the initial climb, the trail was pretty level — which is good for me because I don’t climb hills well. We saw lots of wildflowers and rock formations along the way. And a helicopter pulling equipment out from Roaring Springs on a long line.

It’s another trip I highly recommend. But book it far in advance — there’s about a 6-month waiting list. Unless you do it the way we did: go in the winter when no one wants to go.

Grand Canyon, Arizona, photo

Oh, Canada!

I start a week in Vancouver, BC.

Washing a BuildingI’m sitting on a plastic chair on the front patio of a ground-floor apartment in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, watching four men wash the apartment building across the street. It looks to be a 24-story building and, like most of the buildings in this area, it’s got a steel and glass facade. The four men are sitting on separate wooden seats — kind of like the seats you’d find on a swing set — hanging from ropes on top of the building, about four stories down. Two of them have long hoses and the other two have brushes on long poles and plastic pails. They’re all wearing shorts and sneakers and are doing a lot of bouncing off the walls as they move back and forth and down.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone wash a building before, but it doesn’t surprise me. This is Vancouver, after all. It’s one of the cleanest, well-kept cities I’ve ever seen. Perfectly manicured grassy islands between sidewalks and curbs, trees and flowers, pedestrians and cars. Everything is clean and well-kept. The only graffiti I’ve seen was painted on the back of a rental truck. And although everyone seems to have dog, I haven’t seen a dog turd anywhere.

I’m here recording the audio and video for the first video in a new MacProVideo training video series. Microsoft Word 101 will be a DVD training video for beginning to intermediate Word users. If it sells well, it’ll be followed up with more advanced titles and coverage of Excel and PowerPoint. The work is a bit frustrating and rather tedious, more so because after each 3 to 6 minute segment, I have to wait 6 to 12 minutes for the newly recorded video to render. So I do about 1/3 work and 2/3 waiting. Because I’m recording each segment at least twice, it’s slow going. But, by week-end, I should be finished.

I’d better be. I leave town mid-afternoon on Friday.

Vancouver, BCIn the meantime, I’m enjoying my non-working hours in a clean, safe, and rather beautiful Canadian city. The weather is beautiful, in the mid 70s and mostly sunny, although a marine layer of clouds seems to be drifting in as I type this. My hotel and the office/apartment I’m working at are right on the water near Stanley Park. The view from my hotel room at the Westin is full of boats and seaplanes and healthy people strolling the waterfront.

One of the strangest things I’ve noticed: most of the buildings — including my hotel — have huge floor-to-ceiling windows that open. At my hotel every evening, everyone slides open their big sliding glass doors. Although most patios are too narrow to accommodate chairs, people step out onto that narrow space and gaze down at the hotel’s pool or the marina or even the city skyline. I’ve never seen so many open windows. But why not? The weather is glorious and there don’t seem to be any bugs. Fresh air beats processed air. And air conditioning, although available in my hotel, is not a common thing in this area.

More another time. Got to get to work.