The Mittens

In Monument Valley.

Monument Valley is one of the overnight destinations of the Southwest Circle Helicopter Adventure and Land of the Navajo Helicopter Excursion that Flying M Air offers about a dozen times a year. Because of that, I get up to Monument Valley quite often.

Monument Valley, on the Arizona-Utah border, is relatively remote, hundreds of miles from any major cities. Although the roads to get to it are good, its distance from “civilization” keeps the crowds away. The vast majority of visitors are foreign tourists on bus trips. Monument Valley is pretty unique and has become somewhat iconic as a symbol of the American Southwest.

Traditional Navajo HoganMonument Valley is on the Navajo Reservation, which is the largest of all Native American Reservations in the country. Access to the rock formations we know as monuments is controlled through the entrance of the Navajo Tribal Park. There are reasonable fees for entering and driving your own vehicle into the park. But for an additional fee, you can go with a Navajo Guide who will take you places you’re not allowed to go on your own. If you have the time, I recommend this, as it’s likely to be your only opportunity to step inside a traditional Navajo hogan.

Goulding's LodgeI normally fly to the park from Page along the southeastern side of Lake Powell. There’s a landing strip at Goulding’s Lodge and after a quick, high-level cruise around the most famous monuments, I land at the strip (shown here) and shut down for the night. All the rooms have a clear view of Monument Valley’s westernmost formations, as well as the landing strip. I have to book the rooms at Goulding’s almost a year in advance to guarantee that I get them for the dates I need them.

Once at Goulding’s, my passengers take a 3-1/2 tour with a Navajo Guide. It’s done on a big tour truck with other people, but it’s personally narrated (not with a recording) and up to my relatively high standards of what a tour should be like. I give my passengers a choice of an afternoon tour (on the day of arrival) or a morning tour (on the day of departure). I think the morning tours are better for photography, but since you’re in the park so long, there are plenty of good photo opportunities, no matter what time of day you’re there.

ImageOf course, to learn whether the tour would be good, I had to take one. I’ve actually taken the tour three times. I took this photo on the most recent trip. It shows two of the most famous monuments: the Mittens. They got the name because they look like those woolly things you might have worn in the winter as a kid. They’re formally called East Mitten Butte and West Mitten Butte. They stand hundreds of feet off the desert floor, towers of red sandstone that are still eroding in the high winds and summer storms of northern Arizona.

The Navajo Nation zealously protects its natural wonders from commercial exploitation. It’s for that reason that photographers who want to use their photos commercially need to get a permit from the Navajo Nation Film Commission. I’ve done this once — to get the photos I needed to show on Flying M Air’s Web site. It isn’t cheap, but it isn’t difficult. In general, the film people are pretty reasonable and will do what they can to stay within your budget.

This October, I’m flying a group of about a dozen photographers around Monument Valley as part of a photo excursion offered by one of my clients. He’s gotten all the permits he needs to make it legal for me to fly at low altitude around the monuments. This is a huge deal and something I’m really looking forward to.

Southwest Circle in a Blur

That’s what happens when you compress a 6-day trip into 3-1/2 days.

Just got back from a 3-1/2 day version of Flying M Air‘s Southwest Circle Helicopter Adventure. I won’t do that again. A photographer and I rushed around from Tuesday morning until Friday at noon, trying to visit and photograph or video all of the destinations and the flights in between. I’m talking about Sedona, Grand Canyon, Lake Powell, Monument Valley, and Flagstaff. In 3-1/2 days. Should make your head spin just thinking about it.

I have some stories to tell about the trip, as well as photos and video taken by me and by my companion for the trip, Richard Noll. If you’re a Bigfoot follower, you may know of Rick — he’s done documentaries about monster hunting for Discovery Channel and cable networks.

Rick’s job was to take photos and videos while we were in flight — which is something I can’t do — as well as on the ground where permitted. He left me with about 3 hours of video and close to 900 12-megapixel digital photos. My job, over the next few months, is to turn our raw footage into slideshows, video podcasts, and a DVD to show people some of the things they’ll see on the excursion.

But they’ll be lucky. They’ll be able to see it over 6 days, which is far more reasonable.

Flying in PhoenixRick took the photo you see here as I was flying into Phoenix yesterday at around noon. As helicopters enter the Phoenix Class B airspace, they’re instructed to stay below 2,000 feet (Sky Harbor is at around 1,200 feet, I believe) and normally approach the airport by flying down the west side of Central Avenue. That’s what you see here out the front windows. The red thing on the left (that’s reflecting on my window) is one of the back doors. We took a door off each day so Rick could take glare-free videos and photos. This photo will probably be the opening shot of the first video podcast I put together.

More later. Got a bunch of stuff to do this morning.

I Work Hard…

…in a beautiful place.

If you’ve been following this blog, you may have read about a gig I did a few months ago for a group of photographers at Lake Powell. You may also have seen the photo one of the photographers sent from our flight together.

This past weekend I did it again — in a big way. I made a total of five flights (over two days) with two or three photographers on board to photograph the lake and the surrounding area. And this time, the conditions were perfect, with constantly varying light and clouds.

It was hard work in a beautiful place.

Lake Powell
Lake Powell in the morning.

It was hard work to meet some of the photographers’ demands. I did a huge amount of out-of-ground effect hovering at altitudes as high as 7,000 feet with as many as four people on board. Although I don’t have my helicopter’s performance charts memorized, I do know approximately what’s possible when the helicopter is flown by a test pilot with thousands of hours. I am not a test pilot and I don’t have thousands of hours. So when I was able to hold those high hovers for a few minutes at a time — just long enough to take the shots — I was pretty surprised.

Rainbow Bridge
Rainbow Bridge.

I did get into settling with power conditions on three occasions. In two of them, I caught it quickly, said “Gotta go,” into the intercom, and pulled out of it before the descent rate got out of hand. But on one occasion, the descent rate got to 700 fpm before I attempted a recovery and it got all the way up to 1,500 fpm. (It was just like a training exercise, when you purposely let things get bad before you recover.) We were very high over the Colorado River at the time and there weren’t any other aircraft around, so it wasn’t a dangerous situation once I started recovery. But it was a bit unsettling, at least for me. My passengers had no clue that we were dropping out of the sky, despite those vibrations that tipped me off. On subsequent flights, I was a bit more careful not to get into that situation and I refused to hover in locations where we were too close to earth for a recovery if one was needed.

One of my passengers was extremely demanding and often required high hovers. He’d say “Stop in this place,” expecting me to somehow drop from 80 knots to a standstill 2,000 feet over the lake and turn the helicopter to the exact heading he needed to frame his shots. I say shots because this photographer liked to take multiple images that he could stitch together in his computer to make one big image. It was important that I didn’t move while he was snapping away. Unfortunately, he usually started snapping before I was at a complete stop. I’d be all set up for him to start when he was finished. Later this week, when he gets into his digital darkroom, he’ll see the movement in the shots because the stitching won’t work and he’ll blame me for moving. Go figure.

Fortunately, most of the others were satisfied with me slowing down and circling certain areas.

Reflection Canyon
Reflection Canyon on Lake Powell.

Another challenge of these flights was the tour airplane traffic. On my last gig at the lake, we’d been the only aircraft over the lake. But this time, the tour planes were flying. And they didn’t fly alone. They’d take off in packs, following a set route I didn’t know, using reporting points that were only vaguely familiar. Worst of all, they were flying right around my altitude, 5500 to 6000 feet. After my first two flights, I chatted with one of the pilots to establish things like flight altitudes, route, and reporting frequency for uplake activities. I felt better about it then. But every time a pack of them would take off from Page, I’d do my best to be out of their way.

At one point, we were at the dam taking pictures at about 5200 feet when the planes launched. The dam was the first reporting point on their route and they usually were flying at about 5,000 feet when they got there. I listened as about five of them took off. My boss passenger was fine-tuning my position in the sky over the lake near the dam and all I could think about was the planes coming my way. They would pass me on their way to Horseshoe Bend and pass me again on their way from there to the Marina. That’s ten possible conflicts. I reported my position and kept a lookout, but when one plane reported that he saw me and I saw him take what looked like evasive action to avoid me, I told my passengers we were going to get out of the way until they were gone. I dropped down to 4,500 feet, which was only about 300 feet above the river’s cliff walls, and circled as they all headed to Horseshoe bend. Then I climbed through 6500 feet, which was above their altitude in that area and we resumed work. It was weird seeing one of the planes pass directly beneath me, about 700 feet down, as I slowly circled Horseshoe Bend.

Glen Canyon Dam
Glen Canyon Dam.

All this time, my R44 Raven II performed flawlessly. I had climb rates of up to 800 fpm with four people on board. We were flying in the 5000+ feet neighborhood and it was about 80°F outside.

Each flight was about 90 minutes long. I’d load up enough fuel for a little over 2 hours to keep us as light as possible. On the one flight that I had only two passengers, I topped off the tanks. That flight went nearly 2 hours and was extremely strenuous — the boss passenger was the most demanding photographer. I didn’t realize it until after the flight, but I’d had a “death grip” around the cyclic and could barely open my hand when we landed. My whole right arm was stiff and my shoulder ached. I was so tensed up that it took a hot shower and good dose of ibuprofen to loosen me up.

San Juan River
The San Juan River near its confluence with the Colorado River on Lake Powell.

Mike, who’d accompanied me to Page for the weekend, spent the time hanging around the marina and hotel, walking around, swimming, and watching them put giant houseboats in the water. He couldn’t understand why I was so tired at the end of each pair of flights. To him, I was just flying around. But I really was working hard.

Wahweap Marina on Lake Powell
Wahweap Marina on Lake Powell.

At the end of the two days and five flights, I had over 11 hours of billable time. The resulting revenue stream is enough to cover all of Flying M Air’s fixed expenses for two months. So I’m not complaining about hard work. It was worth it and I’d certainly do it again.

But the most frustrating thing about the weekend was the missed opportunities for taking amazing photos. Although I don’t consider myself a great photographer, I don’t think I’m a bad one. But I was flying and needed both hands to do my job for most of each flight. Taking photos was out of the question. It was killing me to see all this great scenery and not be able to capture my own images.

So on Sunday morning, when we left Page, we flew uplake with Mike’s door off. He took the photos you see here in this entry. I’ll be using some of them to illustrate the area on Flying M Air’s Web site for the Southwest Circle Helicopter Adventure excursion.

I can’t wait until he gets his helicopter rating so he can fly while I snap the photos.

Southwest Circle Helicopter Adventure, take 2

I finally make the tour a reality.

A while back, I wrote a post that outlined my ideas for a 9-day helicopter tour to various destinations in the southwest. After writing up the tour, I realized some of the impracticalities of it — for example, booking the hotel rooms and tours in advance and the little FAA rest rule that forbid me to fly part 135 flights more than 7 days in a row (oops).

Since then, I’ve been thinking a lot about the tour. I’ve since shortened it up and devised a more reasonable plan: a 6-day, 5-night excursion that includes Sedona, Grand Canyon, Lake Powell at Page, Monument Valley, and Flagstaff, with excellent accommodations and side trips and tours at each destination.

You can read the finalized description on the Flying M Air Web site’s new Excursions page. I haven’t added the photos yet and I’ve just begun work on the brochure. But I do have 7 sets of dates scheduled and ready to go. With a more approachable price tag of $4,995 per couple, most folks I’ve spoken to seem to think it’ll sell very well. Now all I need to do is get the word out about the trip’s availability.

Are you ready to go on a helicopter adventure? Well, what are you waiting for? Stop by the Flying M Air Web site and get the details. Then give me a call to book your trip.

helicopter, excursion, Sedona, Grand Canyon, Lake Powell, Page, Monument Valley, Flagstaff

Lake Powell from the Air

I get a few sample photos from the photographer I took over Lake Powell last month.

In April, I had the pleasure of flying five photographers on an afternoon photo flight over Lake Powell. I wrote about it in “Flying At Lake Powell” in this blog.

The photographer who arranged it all, Mike Reyfman, is based in Chicago. He’s a professional photographer, with quite a portfolio of excellent work. His Web site, Mike Reyfman Photography, displays his images, which are available as stock photos and enlargements. He seems to do a lot of work out here in the southwest.

Lake PowellAlthough I enjoyed the scenery while in flight, I didn’t really know how the photos my passengers were taking were coming out. Not until Mike sent me three sample images. Here’s my favorite of the bunch, downsized for Web display.

This is the difference between a professional photographer and a tourist out taking snapshots. I have a terrible time capturing the beauty of what I see around me — and there’s plenty of it sometimes. But a good photographer can focus (pun intended) on a part of what he sees to create a truly memorable image.

If you’re interested in seeing other images Mike took on that trip, visit his Web site. I think you’ll be amazed.

And if you’d like to try your hand at aerial photography over a beautiful place, visit the Flying M Air Web site to learn more about my charter services.