Yesterday’s Rainy Desert Day Time-Lapse

Not what I expected, but you never know what to expect.

I set up my time-lapse camera — an old Canon G5 with a PClix attached — very early yesterday morning. We were supposed to get weather in Wickenburg and that meant clouds. (We don’t get clouds very often, so it’s notable.) I figured I’d get a dawn to sunset time-lapse of the weather moving through.

Unfortunately, it was cloudier than even I expected — not a glimpse of blue sky all day long. The video is a bit disappointing, although you can see the cloud movement and complete loss of visibility. The knobby mountain on the horizon is Vulture Peak, which is about 3 or 4 miles away as the crow flies. It doesn’t stay in the picture for long.

The formula for this video was one shot every 15 seconds, compiled at 30 fps. That takes a 12-hour period and reduces it to about a minute and a half.

One of the problems with shooting time-lapse movies of the sky is that you never know what to expect or where the best views will be. It’s all a crap shoot. That’s okay because the setup is digital and doesn’t cost a thing to operate. It’s just a matter of setting it up and running through the 2000+ photos it generates when it’s done.

I’ve got the camera set up again today and will have more action to show. There’s blue sky and a few clouds that are speeding through the sky, pushed by a strong wind. Perhaps you’ll see that here tomorrow.

Lake Powell to Monument Valley by Helicopter

Part of my Southwest Circle Helicopter Adventure.

This article was originally written for Aircraft Owner Online magazine. I write their monthly “Adventure Flying” column. I normally pull old blog posts for publication, but this time, I wrote an original piece for them. You can find it in their November 2010 issue.

Although I’m based in the Phoenix, AZ area, I spend an unusual of time at Lake Powell doing aerial photo flights for amateur and professional photographers. In September of this year, I flew a total of 20 hours over the lake with at least 20 different photographers on board. I usually get as far uplake as the San Juan River confluence, which is halfway to Monument Valley. But due to the difficulty and expense of getting aerial photo permits for Monument Valley, I rarely fly there.

The one thing that does get me to Monument Valley is Flying M Air‘s Southwest Circle Helicopter Adventure. That’s a 6-day excursion by helicopter that starts in Phoenix and spends a night at Sedona, Grand Canyon, Lake Powell (at Page), Monument Valley, and Flagstaff before returning to Phoenix. I don’t do this trip often — frankly, it’s quite costly and there aren’t many folks who want to spring for it — but I happened to do one in October 2010. In fact, as I’m typing this on my laptop, I’m looking of the window of my room at Goulding’s Lodge at the first light striking the famous monuments of Monument Valley.

On this particular trip, I rigged up a GoPro Hero camera on my helicopter’s nose. Although I used this “nosecam” to shoot video on the first day of the trip, the mount introduced too much vibration to make the video usable. For the remaining days of the trip, I switched over to still photos. The camera automatically shoots a high resolution image every 5 seconds as I fly. With 720 photos per hour, I usually get a few good shots on each leg of the trip.

Wednesday was one of the most scenic legs of the trip. We flew from Page Airport (PGA) up Lake Powell to the San Juan confluence and then east to the airstrip at Goulding’s Lodge in Monument Valley (UT25). On board with me were my two excursion guests and all of our luggage for the 6-day trip. I pack the luggage on and under the seat behind me and sit my guests in the two right seats (front and back) so they get the same view. I then fly to put the best views on their side of the aircraft.

We lifted off from Page at about 2:30 PM. The ASOS reported wind at about 8 knots out of the north, but it sure didn’t feel that strong. I made my radio call and then departed right across the runway, heading uplake. A Citation jet called a downwind a few moments later; we caught sight of him high above us as we crossed the airport fence.

Departing PGA

Our shadow as we crossed the runway at Page Municipal Airport.

It was a beautiful day, with high, thin clouds tracing lazy lines across a clear blue sky. The October afternoon sun bathed the landscape with a soft light that illuminated the red rock cliffs and buttes, cast shadows in the canyons, and accentuated the blue of the water. Sure, the light was too harsh for the aerial photographers I usually take around there, but for my passengers and me, it was great for taking snapshots of our surroundings.

The first canyon we crossed was Antelope Canyon, which is just east of the airport. Normally, I just buzz across it, but the tour boat was inside the canyon, so I made a turn to the left so my passengers could get a photo of it. I didn’t circle, though. I’m extremely conservative with fuel on the fourth and fifth days of the excursion, since there’s no fuel between Page, Monument Valley, and Flagstaff (or, in this case, Winslow). I need every drop of fuel I have on board to get to my Day 5 destination on Thursday with required reserves on board.

Antelope Canyon

Most people see Antelope Canyon from the inside, where it’s a masterpiece of sandstone swirls carved by wind and water. But this is the view I see most often.

We continued uplake, passing Antelope Point Marina and the mouth of Navajo Canyon. I made a position call a mile north of iconic Tower Butte and changed from the Page airport frequency to the uplake frequency (122.75). I repeated the call on that frequency and got into a discussion with the returning tour pilots. They’d be coming my way at 5,000 feet; I’d stay out of their way by flying at 4,500 feet.

The tour traffic is a major concern for anyone flying at Lake Powell. It’s a very good idea to learn the tour routes, altitudes, and reporting points they use before exploring in your own aircraft. There’s nothing scarier than flying the lake and seeing a plane flying where you don’t expect it, especially if it’s not on frequency or doesn’t know where it is in relation to the usual reporting points. Ten minutes with a tour pilot and a chart at Page Airport is enough to get the basics.

We slipped between Dominguez and Boundary Buttes at the south end of Padre Bay and continued uplake. Winding canyons opened up on our right. I pointed out a cluster of kayaks near a powerboat in a canyon with water as smooth as glass. In the main channel, you could clearly see the wind on the water. Not enough to make whitecaps, but gusty enough to see round patterns of movement appear and disappear across the water surface.

Dominguez Butte

My usual uplake route takes me between Dominguez and Boundary Buttes. In the far left of this photo, you can see Padre Butte, referred to by local pilots as “submarine.” Navajo Mountain looms in the distance.

We passed the south side of Gregory Butte and Last Chance Bay as two tour planes flew by overhead. Last Chance is a long, wide canyon with steep sandstone walls. It’s a long boat ride to the end where there are a few sandy spots suitable for houseboat parking. Distance to parking and the cost of fuel are part of what keeps the canyon free of traffic, even during busy summer months. On this October day, however, the whole lake was quiet; I don’t think we saw more than 20 or 30 boats.

We flew over the main channel of the lake as the canyon narrowed. One of my passengers pointed out Dangling Rope Marina and asked me about it. I told her what I knew: it was a marina only accessible by water. There were no roads in or out. I then told her a story about our stop there 20 years before on a houseboating trip. How I miss cruising the lake in a houseboat!

Lake Powell from the Air

Over the main channel of Lake Powell just uplake from Last Chance Bay. The canyon walls rise about 800-1,000 feet off the water’s surface here.

We were nearing the mouth of the canyon that would take us to Rainbow Bridge. As I flew, I’d been listening to the radio and knew there was a female pilot in the area. I also knew there was another tour plane behind me, on its way to “the bridge.” It’s a tight squeeze in the canyon and my challenge is always to stay as low as possible to ensure my photography clients can get the shots they need. Over the years, I’ve perfected my approach.

The female pilot was just leaving the area when I reached the mouth of the canyon and turned in. I flew up the canyon at 5000 feet, telling my passengers what to look for as we flew: the dock, the trail, the giant stone arch of Rainbow Bridge. I was busy keeping an eye on the mesa to the right of the helicopter. On a day like that one, with occasional gusts of wind, I wouldn’t get any closer than 200 feet from it’s edge. I verbally pointed out Rainbow Bridge when I saw it, keeping both hands on the controls. We flew past and they snapped photos. I circled around the back, assuring the pilot behind me that I’d stay at or below 5000 feet until I was clear of the area. Then, when abeam the bridge a second time, I broke off to the left and climbed out toward the San Juan Confluence.

Rainbow Bridge

This wide-angle shot gives you an idea of how tricky the area around Rainbow Bridge is. I get very close to that mesa top. Can you see the bridge in the photo?

The trickiest bit of flying I’d have to do on the entire trip was behind me.

I climbed to 6500 feet to give my passengers a good view of the twists and turns of the San Juan River just upstream from the confluence. Then I punched in my user waypoint for Goulding’s Lodge, adjusted course, and headed east over the eroded desert terrain south of the San Juan River.

San Juan River

The San Juan River twists and turns dramatically before meeting the Colorado.

We were east of Navajo Mountain now and the area was riddled with water-carved canyons, windswept rocks, and stunted trees. Below us, here and there, were two-track roads leading back toward the river. One of the roads looked very well maintained, although there was no sign of any homesteads or other reason to use it.

We flew over the top of No Man Mesa, where two or three ranches are scattered. A pickup truck drove slowly along a two-track toward one of the ranches. We saw a herd of horses and a flock of sheep tended by a dog before crossing over the top of the mesa and beginning our descent toward Monument Valley. The famous monuments started coming into view as we rounded the edge of a cliff face.

Off No Man's Mesa

A wide canyon cuts across the desert just past No Man Mesa. While not as beautiful as the Grand Canyon, it offers a glimpse of what the Grand Canyon may have looked like before it became grand.

I switched to the Monument Valley frequency and heard several tour planes making calls. I leveled off at 5500 feet and flew directly over the first paved road we’d seen since leaving the airport. Ahead of us, at the airport, I could see three tour planes launch, one after the other. One crossed overhead in front of me, the others climbed out beside me and likely crossed behind me. All of them were returning to Page the quick way. They’d be back within 30 minutes; we’d taken 60.

Before landing at Gouldings, I always make a quick loop around the western part of the Monument Valley Tribal Park. That day was no different. I climbed to 6000 feet and followed the road into the park. Once I reached the visitor center area, I banked left toward the Mitten buttes. I flew between them, on a route the tour pilots refer to as “splitting the mittens.” Then I banked left again and headed back toward Goulding’s.

Splitting the Mittens

The two Mitten Buttes (East and West) are iconic Monument Valley images.

Monument Valley

I restrict my quick loop around Monument Valley to the west side of the park to minimize noise impact on the ground.

As we came in for a landing, a small herd of horses, spooked by the sound of my helicopter, galloped across the desert east of the airport, kicking up fine red dust.

Landing at Monument Valley

Monument Valley Airport has just one way in and out. Not the kind of airport where you want to overshoot the runway.

It had been a good flight with few bumps or unexpected challenges. Later, in my hotel room at Goulding’s Lodge, I was pleased with the quality of the images my Hero camera had captured. What a great way to document a flight.

Note to Pilots: If you do plan a trip to Goulding’s Lodge, remember that the airport there is private and for use by Goulding’s guests and tour clients only. Go to Goulding’s Web site at www.Gouldings.com to learn more about restrictions regarding airport use.

Yes, Wilderness IS Special

And we don’t need your signs ruining it.

Wilderness is Special?I took a short hike yesterday in the Secret Mountain Wilderness area of Sedona. Wilderness areas are “protected” by the government, open only to foot traffic. Hell, they even suggest air traffic minimum altitudes.

Yet apparently the government has no problem erecting ugly signs like this one and the equally unattractive one just down the trail from it just to remind us how special this area is.

Apparently, it’s not special enough to remain sign-free.

An Aerial View of the Verde River Lakes

A different perspective.

I flew up the Verde River today with my GoPro Hero camera on, shooting video. As I relax in my hotel room this evening, I’m reviewing the footage.

It’s amazing.

I’ll treat readers to two stills taken from the video. In both shots, I’ve included the dam at the bottom of the photo. It’s a view most folks don’t get to see. The quality of the images isn’t the best — it was taken from video, after all — but I still think they’re nice enough to share.

This is Bartlett Lake, the first lake you come to as you go up the Verde from its confluence with the Salt River. It’s about 10 feet down from full and they’re letting water out at the dam, as you can see in the lower left corner of the photo.

Barlett Lake

This is Horseshoe Lake, the Verde’s other lake. As you can see, the water surface was like glass and there were some really great reflections. This lake is fuller than I usually see it, but still not full enough to reach the dam.

Horseshoe Lake

It was a great day for flying, with smooth air, comfortable temperatures, and just enough clouds to make it interesting.

If I can get my act together tonight, I’ll try to put together a video from Day 1. Stay tuned.

And if you want to shoot real (not from video) photos of these places — or other places around Arizona — you owe it to yourself to look up Flying M Air.

A Lesson in High Density Altitude

Hot and high make for bad flying weather.

Earlier this month, I gave helicopter rides at the annual Old Congress Days celebration. This is my fourth or fifth time attending the event. I don’t make much money at it — I usually price the rides too cheap for that — but it is one way of giving back to the community. The folks in Congress, AZ do their best to make it a great event for everyone and I try to do my part.

My landing zone for this event is probably the nicest helipad I’ve ever been privileged to operate from. It’s the medevac helicopter pad next door to the local fire station. Congress is about a 20-minute drive from the nearest hospital, in Wickenburg, and at least an hour from a better-equipped hospital down in Sun City. If you need emergency medical attention for a serious matter in Congress, they’ll send a helicopter to pick you up and it’ll land right beside the fire station in the middle of town.

Congress Helipad, Close UpThe helipad is a 75-foot square of concrete, marked with a big, white, reflective cross in the middle. Around that is another 20-25 feet of big, dust-free gravel. A four-foot fence surrounds the whole thing (see red box). Access is from the street side only, where a double gate can open to admit an ambulance. A concrete path leads up to it so pedestrians don’t need to walk on the gravel.

As a landing zone for an event, it’s a helicopter ride pilot’s dream come true. There’s no reason at all to worry about access to the area, since everyone has to go through a gate which my ground crew keeps secured. After the first landing, no dust is kicked up into spectators’ faces or the rotor blades. The pad is flat and level and smooth.

It would be perfect if not for one thing: I had to come and go.

And that’s always been the problem with this landing zone. I only feel safe coming and going from the east (right in this photo). The fire house building is to the north and relatively new metal building stands to the south. The event is to the west and several strands of wires hang at the usual height from telephone poles between it and the helipad. The east is the only direction where I don’t have to fly close over a building or crowd of people. Of course, to the east there are also some desert trees up to 15 feet tall and a railroad track that gets freight trains a few times a day.

I’m not saying the landing zone is impossible. It’s certainly not. But it’s the kind of place where you need to keep on your toes whenever you take off or land.

The Usual Routine

Normally, the wind is coming from the north, south, or west. That’s okay with me, unless it’s howling. I’d rather take off with a tail wind and land with a headwind than the other way around. The way I see it, if I can take off with a tailwind, I’ll have no trouble landing with a headwind.

When the wind is coming from the north, I take off to the northeast and land from the southeast — quartering headwind both ways. When the wind is coming from the south, I take off to the southeast and land from the northeast. Same quartering tailwind situation.

I always park with my tail rotor facing away from the path. I don’t want to give passengers any reason to even think about walking behind the helicopter. The single member of my ground crew loads one side of the helicopter at a time. He walks two passengers from the gate to the helicopter’s left side while a third passenger (if there is one) waits at the path. Once he’s loaded the first two and closed their doors, he walks the third person to the seat behind me. Once the doors are closed, he gives me the thumbs up signal as he walks back to the path.

When he’s clear and I’ve double-checked the doors — a good habit I’m not going to break — I pick up into a hover, pivot around to face my departure path, and take off. I then do a loop around the entire town to the left. It takes 5-6 minutes. I finish off by coming in on my chosen arrival path and landing back on the pad.

Arrival and DepartureThis photo shows my arrival and departure paths with a few points of interest.

  • The blue lines are all wires. They’re the standard height wires you find on wooden telephone poles.
  • The yellow line is my departure path. I need to fly parallel to the railroad tracks until I have enough altitude to see if a train is coming. (I can’t make this stuff up.) If a train is coming, I need enough altitude to fly over it. I also need enough altitude to get across the wires on route 89 when I make my left turn.
  • The magenta line is my arrival path. I need to clear the wires on route 71 on my final descent. I’ve already confirmed no train is coming, so I know I can come in nice and low over the tracks.
  • Both paths avoid the desert trees growing between the helipad and the tracks.

One of the challenges to this path is the six-foot fence around the metal building south of the helipad. You can see it as blue lines in the first satellite photo. It’s only a few feet from the helipad fence and I cross over the corner of it while I’m climbing out. Going beyond the corner would bring me tool close for comfort to those train tracks with no way of knowing if a train was just beyond the building and trees.

Sounds challenging and it is. But I’ve been doing this gig for a bunch of years and I just deal with it. After all, I’ve worked with much worse conditions at other gigs. Despite the confined space aspects, this is still pretty darn good.

Add Heat

This gig is in October every year and Congress sits at right about 3,000 feet elevation. The temperature is normally in the high 70s or low 80s. Warm, but not to the point where it becomes an issue.

But not this year. During the October 2, 2010 event, my outside air temperature (OAT) gauge read anywhere from 90°F to 102°F. It was freaking hot. So hot I took my door off before I started flying and flew with a bandana full of ice cubes around my neck.

Doing the Math and Why It Matters

Density Altitude ChartLet’s do some pilot math here through the use of a density altitude chart. At 3,000 feet elevation with an outside air temperature of 35°C (roughly 95°F), the density altitude is about 6,000 feet. That means my aircraft would perform as if I were taking off and landing at a helipad at 6,000 feet elevation rather than 3,000 feet.

If you’re not a pilot, you probably don’t understand why this matters. The simple explanation is that aircraft performance drops off as altitude rises. This has to do with the density of the air. At high density altitudes, the air is thinner and aircraft simply don’t perform as well as they do at sea level.

I knew this was going to be a problem when we took off at Wickenburg at 9 AM that morning. With full fuel tanks, two people on board, and about 50 pounds of landing zone equipment, I had to pull 22 inches of manifold pressure to get off the ground. On a cooler day, 20 or 21 inches would have done it. I immediately started wondering how things would be with two or three adult passengers on board.

I found out at about 10:20 AM, when the parade ended and the passengers started lining up. The first flight was just one passenger, a friend. By that time, the temperature was already in the 90s and the helicopter felt slightly sluggish. The second flight had two passengers and that was enough. On departure, I passed through effective translational lift (ETL) right around the time I reached that six-foot fence. The resulting dip before the post-ETL power boost kicked in brought me within 5 feet of the top of that fence. I was not a happy camper.

On the next flight, before taking off, I hovered to the north side of the pad to give myself a running start at that damn fence. It made a difference, but not a big one. I could count the barbs on the top strand of wire every time we passed over it.

Using High DA Experience

I have to admit here that I was using all my high density altitude experience for every departure. In the grand scheme of things, 6,000 feet DA isn’t a lot for me. I’ve successfully landed and taken off at airports with 9,000 or 10,000 feet density altitude. The density altitude was over 10,000 feet a few years back when I departed Bryce Canyon Airport in my helicopter with three people on board.

When I flew at the Grand Canyon in 2004, I flew Long Rangers from a base at 6,300 feet with temperatures as high as 95°F. If you pull too much pitch on takeoff in a turbine helicopter, you’ll over-torque the engine and possibly destroy the transmission. If you didn’t learn the tricks for getting off the ground with a full load of German tourists, you’d be putting a helicopter in the shop with a $100,000 repair bill.

In the R44, you can pull as much pitch as you want without bothering the transmission, but there will come a point when there simply isn’t enough power to spin the blades at full RPM. When the low rotor RPM horn goes off, you want enough wiggle room beneath you to lower the collective to regain lost RPM. That isn’t going to be possible with a fence just a few feet away. So I wasn’t about to pull more pitch than the helicopter would give me. I trusted my ears to tell me when I was pushing my luck with the collective — I can always hear the rotor RPM droop before the horn goes off.

Why Full Fuel?

Now you might be wondering why I had full fuel tanks. Simple: there was no fuel at my landing zone. I’d planned to fly until I had enough for my 10-minute flight back to Wickenburg and 20-minute required fuel reserve. Since I’d be spending a lot of time on the ground, spinning between flights, I needed to start with as much fuel as I could if I wanted to maximize fly time — and profits.

The problem with this plan was that I simply did not have the performance I wanted to take three adult passengers at a time. And there aren’t many kids in Congress. As a result, I did almost every single flight with just two passengers on board, netting just a few dollars on every flight — and sweating my brains out while I did it.

Just Can’t Do It

I was down to 2/3 tanks when my ground crew guy tried to put three adults on board. The two women weren’t big, but the man was 245 pounds. Our total weight was right about at our limit for an out of ground effect (OGE) hover. I pulled pitch slowly to bring it into a hover. I was at 23 inches of manifold pressure hovering over the pad. I’d need at least two inches more to clear the fence on what was essentially a maximum performance takeoff from a confined space. And, given the conditions, I just didn’t think I had the power I needed.

All I could think of was hitting that damn fence with three passengers on board.

I set it back down and told them that either one of them needed to get off or they all needed to come back later, when I’d burned off more fuel and was lighter.

The OGE Chart

As my ground crew guy offloaded them, I consulted the pilot operating handbook (POH) to see exactly what the OGE chart said. According to the chart, it was possible to hover out of ground effect in the conditions of flight — but just barely.

You might be wondering why I consulted the OGE hover chart instead of the IGE (in ground effect) chart. After all, ground effect is in play for about one rotor diameter — in my case, about 28 feet — from the ground. The fence I feared was only 6 feet tall.

R44 OGE ChartI guess the easiest way to explain it is that the OGE hover chart is the best indicator of the most power I’ll have in the worst possible condition. It takes more power to hover than to fly and it takes more power to hover OGE than IGE. So if you want to know what the maximum performance is in a worst case scenario situation, consult the OGE chart.

(I should mention here that the OGE chart for the Robinson R44 Raven II is the reason I bought a Raven II instead of a Raven I. The Raven I OGE chart (which can be found in this post, also dealing with high DA) told me that I simply wouldn’t have the performance I needed to operate in Arizona’s relatively high elevations in Arizona’s hot weather. It was a no brainer and worth the extra $40K to have a better performing aircraft. I don’t regret my decision one bit.)

To read this chart, you follow the weight line (roughly 2,400 to 2,450 pounds; I always use the highest estimate) up to where it intersects with the temperature line (35°C) and then follow it across to the pressure altitude. In this case, it says I can hover out of ground effect at 3,000 feet, which is exactly where I was.

But what if I didn’t have the skill? What if the helicopter wasn’t properly tuned? The chart is created by test pilots with thousands of hours at the controls of all kinds of helicopters. I have about 2,500 hours, of flight time with less than half of that in my R44. Just because the chart said it was [barely] possible doesn’t mean I could pull it off. I wanted more wiggle room.

And That’s What Experience Teaches Us

Experience doesn’t only teach us how to fly better and to make the helicopter perform in difficult situations. It also teaches us to recognize when performing a maneuver or operation might not be safe.

It gives us the courage to say no, this isn’t something I want to do.

I remember one hot day at the Grand Canyon back in 2004. I was flying Copter 9 (I think), which had a reputation for being a “dog” — an under performer. The company tower controller called me on the radio to ask if I could take 4,150 pounds. The helicopter’s max gross weight was 4,200 pounds and it had been performing like its usual crappy self all day with every load around 4,000 pounds. I’d even “beeped” it a few times on takeoff — pulling a tiny bit more than 100% torque for a second or two. I didn’t think 4,150 was a good idea. I said no.

Sure, I could have tried taking a heavier load. And I could have hit the JetA fuel tank at the end of our departure area or overtorqued the aircraft. Or I could have got off fine. Was it worth trying to find out how it would all end?

Of course not. Safety first.

There are old pilots and bold pilots, but there are no old, bold pilots.

My Three Passengers

The same three passengers tried to board again 15 minutes later, after I’d burned off only 24 pounds of fuel. I told my ground crew guy I needed at least an hour. They hung around for a while, watching me come and go. All my flights had only two passengers on board — except one flight, where I took a mom and two small kids.

They disappeared while I was out flying. Later, my ground crew guy told me he’d given them their money back. I was glad.

Maybe next year, the temperature at Congress will be more seasonal. And maybe next year, we’ll bring the last 10 gallons of fuel in cans.