Four Tips for Great Antelope Canyon Photos

You don’t need to be a professional photographer to get great shots of this incredible place.

This past week, I made my fourth visit to Antelope Canyon near Page, AZ.

Antelope CanyonAntelope Canyon is an incredible slot canyon cut through Navajo sandstone. At certain times of the day at certain times of the year, the sunlight enters the top of the canyon, illuminating it with a golden light. The canyon has been featured in many magazines, sometimes with shafts of light capturing particles of dust set in motion by the cool breeze. Everyone who sees these photos dreams of taking photos just like them.

The sad reality of Antelope Canyon is that it’s a major tourist attraction that has hundreds of visitors a day. The prime midday time slots are especially crowded, with dozens of photographers vying for position to capture the perfect image. Add to that the normal tourist crowd with their flash cameras and you have a less-than-perfect photo opportunity.

That said, I’m proud to say that the photo you see here was taken at about noon last Tuesday. I had never before seen so many people in the canyon. The “serious” photographers were especially obnoxious, blocking the narrow canyon with their tripods, making it next to impossible for anyone to move forward. Yet there was only one person within sight when I took this photo, and I did it with a point-and-shoot digital camera.

Here are my secrets.

  • Don’t be in a hurry. The tour groups visiting Antelope Canyon come in truckloads of 6 to 18 people each. In most cases, group members are in a hurry to get through the canyon. The truth is, the first two or three chambers are the most beautiful and usually have the best light. By hanging back in the group, you can have these chambers all to yourself — before the next group comes through. (That’s how I found myself alone with just one other photographer for a full five minutes with this beautiful scene in front of me.)
  • Turn off your flash. Flash illumination will wash out the colors and cast deep shadows where shadows simply don’t belong. If your camera has an “automatic” or “program” mode, it should be “smart” enough to get the exposure right. This photo was taken with natural light. And no, I didn’t use Photoshop to enhance it.
  • Use a tripod. This is must. Don’t trust image stabilization features. I mount my camera vertically on the tripod and extend its legs while I’m still on the truck, so I’m ready to go right away. Then all I do is spread the tripod’s legs, embed its feet in the sandy floor of the canyon, and fine-tune to frame my subject. And, in case you’re wondering, my tripod for this duty is a $10 model that was thrown in as a giveaway with my video camera — in other words, a piece of junk.
  • Use a cable release…or your camera’s self-timer. Pushing the button on your camera will shake it — possibly enough to blur the image. That’s why you should use a cable release to snap the photo. Your camera doesn’t support that? No problem. Set the camera’s self timer to one or two seconds and press the button. Your button-pressing finger will be safely out of the way when the photo snaps.

Been to Antelope Canyon? I’d love to see your photos. Use the Comments to link to your best shots and share them with the rest of us.

And if you’d like to read more about my visits to this wonderful place, read “Antelope Canyon,” a post I wrote here last year.

Buy on RedBubbleThe full-frame version of this photo is available for sale as cards and prints at RedBubble.com.

Commercial Airline Travel Blues

At the mercy of misguided authority — and other minor inconveniences.

I flew to Austin, TX today. Well, that’s not exactly true. I wasn’t doing the flying. I was a passenger on a Southwest Airlines 737.

Dangerous Substances and Implements

I hadn’t been on a commercial airliner since last November and I’d forgotten what a pain in the neck it could be. Back then, Mike and I were flying to Florida for a week and we checked our luggage, so all the liquids/cremes/gels nonsense didn’t apply to us. Since those days, most airports have relaxed many of their restrictions on these things. But Phoenix has not. It still limits your liquids/cremes/gels carry-on to 3 ounce bottles that must fit in a clear plastic bag that they provide. They call it 3-1-1, but I have no clue what the 1 and 1 are supposed to stand for.

I had a tube of toothpaste, a tiny bottle of eye drops, 4 disposable contact lenses (in original packaging), and an almost spent tube of face cream. It was tucked into my backpack, along with a change of clothes, some PJs, my 12″ PowerBook, and a bunch of chargers and AC adapters.

I decided that I was going to take my chances with the X-Ray machine. Phoenix could save a plastic bag. If security found my liquids/cremes/gels a hazard to airline traffic, they could keep them.

And that’s what was going through my mind as I waited on line at security.

Until I got to the front of the line and started wondering whether I still had that mini Leatherman tool in my purse. I’d bought the tool back in my turbine helicopter days, when I needed a screwdriver to open the battery compartment on the Long Ranger I flew at the Grand Canyon. SInce then, the tool was always shuffling around from one place to another. I wasn’t sure if it was in my purse.

Security brought good news and bad news. The good news is, they either didn’t find my liquids/cremes/gels or didn’t care about them. The bad news is, they did find the Leatherman tool. But, of course, that’s good news, too. I would have been more worried if it were in there and they didn’t find it.

The Leatherman cost me $34 in 2004 and I wasn’t about to leave it for the security people to fight over. So I got an escort back into the insecure area and a special yellow card that would allow me to come back to the front of the line. I also got directions to the Information desk, where a Indian woman would help me mail my Leatherman home.

I waited behind a man buying stamps for postcards. When it was my turn, the Indian woman weighed my leatherman and gave me a padded envelope and 3 39¢ stamps. I gave her $2.79.

“The mailbox is on the second level,” she told me. Go down one level and go out door 23 on the north side. It’s to the left. You’ll have to walk a little.”

That was the understatement of the day. The mailbox was on the opposite end of the terminal. I think that if I’d walked in a different direction, I probably would have run into a post office sooner.

Back at the line, I was able to get to the front with my yellow card. Then I faced the X-Ray machine again. Would they confiscate my liquids/cremes/gels?

No.

I felt bad for the folks who had unpacked these dangerous substances and revealed them to the world.

East by Southwest

Southwest Airlines LinePart two of my commercial airline travel day came when I arrived at the Southwest Airlines gate for my flight. That’s when I remembered why I’d stopped flying Southwest years ago. No assigned seats.

At the gate were three signs on poles: A, B, and C. And at each sign was a line of passengers. I got on what I thought was the end of line A but was then directed back behind 20 more people who were fortunate enough to have seats on line.

Whatever.

The pre-board line was surprisingly long. On it were folks in wheel chairs, a family with a young child in a stroller, and some older people who looked perfectly fit to me. I guess that when you get to be over a certain age, you can get special treatment if you push hard enough for it.

The pre-board folks disappeared into the plane and they started on line A. I handed over my boarding pass — didn’t need it since it didn’t have a seat number on it — and followed the people in front of me. I was very surprised to get a seat at a window in row 3. Apparently most folks don’t want window seats. Most aisle seats in the front half of the plane were full.

The older folks who had been on the pre-board line were sitting right in front of me.

Planes on LineAlthough we taxied right to the runway for departure, when we turned the corner I saw at least a dozen airplanes in line behind us. I guess that’s why the captain was taxiing so quickly on the ramp.

It was a great flight. Short and smooth. I had two glasses of orange juice, a bag of honey roasted peanuts, and a bag of Ritz crackers. I listened to podcasts: Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me, Wired News, and Alt Text.

It was clear through Arizona and into New Mexico. I had a great view of the north side of El Paso. Then the tiny clouds started up, casting oddly shaped shadows on the desert terrain below them. We flew over the oil fields — mile after mile of sand colored squares, connected by dirt roads. The clouds thickened until I could no longer see the ground at all. Then we started our descent. I heard the landing gear lock into place long before I saw the ground again. It was wet.

As I was getting off the plane, I noted that the folks in front of me who needed extra time to board needed no extra time to get off the plane. They were out the door almost before the jetway had rolled to a complete stop. I bet they have a handicapped sign for their car’s rear view mirror so they can use handicapped parking, too.

Austin’s airport terminal looks like a great place to hang out. I’m sure I’ll get a good opportunity tomorrow, while I’m waiting for my return flight.

Unless I decide to spend that time standing on line.

Car Rental Scams and Beyond

The Hertz car rental guy tried hard to sell me the insurance coverage, using the usual scare tactics. I resisted. He then tried to sell me a whole tank of fuel for the car, warning me that I’d pay $6.69 a gallon if I didn’t return it full. I doubt if I’ll drive more than 20 miles, so I told him I’d return it full.

Right now I’m sitting in a nice little room at the Marriott Springhill Suites. I have an Internet connection, a fridge, a microwave, and a king sized bed with a pillowtop mattress. Outside my window is a tree — not a parking lot! It sure beats the place I stayed in last time I came to Austin.

Travel isn’t so bad. I’ll live.

Why I Don't Share GPS Coordinates Online

I’m vague about locations for a reason.

One of the great things about exploring remote desert locations is that they’re seldom visited by others. And the fewer people who visit an interesting destination, the fewer people have the opportunity to vandalize it.

I’ve seen the results of vandalism firsthand.

  • A huge masonry house overlooking Lake Pleasant was abandoned in the late 1970s or early 1980s when only 75% done. It had windows once, but vandals took care of that and left their shotgun shells and beer cans behind.
  • A pair of cabins dating from the early 1900s in the Weaver Mountains had apple trees growing out front, but campers decided to cut them down for firewood.
  • A rock with petroglyphs carved into it in the mountains near Congress has more modern graffiti than ancient indian drawings.
  • Entire ghost towns in the Weaver, Bradshaw, and Wickenburg Mountains have been wiped off the map by souvenir hunters.

These are only a few of the things I’ve seen destroyed, lost forever. I don’t want to be responsible — even indirectly — for the loss of any others.

Many times when I write about places that are hidden away in the desert, I’m vague about their whereabouts. I know that I won’t damage them. And I know that the people I bring there won’t damage them. But who’s to say what people who get directions or GPS coordinates on the Web will do?

Just today, my friend Ray and I were talking about ATVers exploring all the old mine sites. They come up from Phoenix with their fancy quads, following directions they’ve found on the Web to places like Anderson Mill and Gold Bar Mine. Most of them are respectful of these remnants of our past. But it only takes one with a bad attitude to destroy fragile ruins.

And sadly, there are more than one of these people out there.

Slot Canyons

Another helicopter outing.

I was coming into Wickenburg Municipal Airport after a tour I’d done down in Scottsdale when I spotted a helicopter sitting idle at the fuel island. Ray’s or Dave’s — I couldn’t tell from that distance. Then Dave’s voice came over the radio, announcing that he was two miles north, landing at the fuel island. Since I was headed for the same place, all three of Wickenburg’s privately owned helicopters would be at the airport at once.

“Hey, Dave. Where are you going?” I asked.

The Unicom frequency at Wickenburg was otherwise dead and local pilots aren’t shy about brief conversations over the airwaves when necessary.

“Hey, Maria. We’re going out to take a look at some slot canyons Ray found. Want to come?”

“Maybe.”

I landed on the 100LL side of the fuel island. Ray saw Dave coming in and moved the helicopter, which was parked on its dolly, so Dave could land there. Ray had his two young sons with him. A man I didn’t know was waiting at the fuel island for Dave.

I shut down as the FBO guy came out to fuel my helicopter. Soon Dave’s helicopter was sucking down JetA.

Both Dave and Ray fly Hughes 500s. Ray has a 1982 Hughes 500D utility ship and Dave has a 1969 (I think) Hughes 500C “executive” model. Both guys bought their helicopters after taking an “E-ticket” ride up the Hassayampa with Jim, who owns a 1973 Hughes 500C exec. All three of these helicopters are in excellent condition. Jim has since moved (at least temporarily) to San Diego. Dave flies his helicopter to work in Scottsdale almost every day. And Ray uses his mostly for exploring, although he’s building time so he can qualify for training with his ship’s utility hook.

I’m the poor kid on the block — at least in their eyes — with a piston helicopter. I like to remind them that I bought mine brand new.

Spur of the moment day trips like these aren’t anything unusual for Wickenburg’s helicopter pilots. What is unusual is that I should be invited. The last time they invited me on an outing, it was Ray and Jim flying their helicopters into a canyon near Burro Creek. I orbited overhead with Mike while they landed on a ridge so narrow that their skids just fit and their tailcones hung out over an abyss. “Come on down,” Jim, the guy known for trimming treetops with his main rotor blades, urged over the radio. “I don’t think so,” I replied. “Have fun.” And Mike and I headed to Prescott for lunch with pavement under my skids. Since then, Ray and Jim were convinced that I didn’t like off-airport landings. (Ah, if they only knew.) The invitations stopped. But today, I happened to be in the right place at the right time for a new invitation.

Unfortunately, I was waiting for Mike to meet me at the airport. We’d planned to wash the helicopter. Mike had taken a motorcycle ride up to Prescott to clear his mind a bit and wasn’t expected back for another 20 to 30 minutes.

Ray told me he’d overflown the place a bunch of times and had landed there with his wife recently to check it out. He said there were at least three slot canyons. One was about 6 feet wide, 100 feet deep, and 3/4 mile long. He described where the place was located in terms of landmarks: go to the Wayside Inn, then head over the north side of the lake and you’ll find it just past the first set of low mountains.

Ray probably has a GPS, but I don’t think he believes in using it. He never has coordinates for anything. But he does have the uncanny ability to re-find a place after being there just once. He’s found and returned to all kinds of things out in the desert — abandoned homesteads, waterfalls, plane wrecks, mines — you name it. If it’s out in the desert within a 50 mile radius of Wickenburg, Ray can take you there.

I know the area that Ray was describing and I know that there are lots of low mountains there. If I didn’t follow them, I wouldn’t find it. But I had to wait for Mike. They waited long enough for me to change my shirt and shoes. But when Mike still didn’t appear, they were done waiting. Dave and his friend started up first and took off with enough downwash to knock over all the extra JetA fueling equipment stored at the fuel island. He orbited the industrial park while Ray and his boys started up and warmed up. Soon they were lifting off. Then they were a pair of dark spots heading west.

Mike rolled in 10 minutes later. I told him what was up, then went to start up the helicopter while he parked his motorcycle. I managed to raise Dave on the radio and told him I’d be taking off in two minutes.

I had the Wayside Inn (home of the Hamburger in the Middle of Nowhere) programmed into my GPS, so I punched it in as a direct-to and we headed west bearing 286°. After a few moments, I heard Ray and Dave chatting on the frequency, so I told them we were airborne. They weren’t in any hurry — in fact, it seemed they were interest in overflying the remains of a trailer-based meth lab out in the desert — so I had a decent chance of catching up with them. Dave had doors off, which would slow him down and it was only Mike and I on board, so I was able to get a 115-knot cruise speed at my allowable continuous power setting of 22.5 inches of manifold pressure (30°C at 2,000 feet). I’d flown with Jim many times and he seldom topped 100 knots.

We switched frequency to 122.725 so we wouldn’t bother other pilots while we chatted. I reported our progress each time I crossed a landmark: Route 71, the unpaved Alamo Road, the Wayside Inn. When I got to the Inn, they were already across the lake. Fortunately, Ray had to poke around a bit to find a good landing zone. I reached the west side of the lake just as Dave set down on a ridge. I didn’t see either of them — at least at first. Then I caught sight of a flash of light: A strobe about 2 miles away.

“I have you in sight,” Dave said at almost the same moment. “I’m at your one o’clock.”

That’s where I saw the strobe. I homed in on it.

Ray was still listening in as he cooled down his engine. “There’s a good landing zone right behind me,” he said. “I can guide you in if you want.”

I circled around Dave’s helicopter, which was still spinning up on the ridge. Ray was on a low arm of the mountain. The slot canyon was just to the left of his helicopter. There was plenty of room behind him — even for a helicopter 38-1/2 feet long — between palo verde trees, cactus, and shrubs.

“I got it,” I told him. I made my approach and set down in the longest clear area I could find. The top branches of a palo verde tree on my left were about a foot beneath my unloaded spinning blades.

I cooled off my engine, which had been running hotter than usual during our high speed pursuit (summer is almost here in Arizona), and shut down. The blades were just coasting to a stop on their own when Dave and his friend reached us. Ray and his boys were waiting patiently for us.

We didn’t waste any time scrambling down the side of the steep canyon wall just 10 feet from Ray’s helicopter. I was wearing Keds, which were the only shoes I had at the airport (other than my loafers) and they didn’t offer any traction at all. I had to do the last little bit on my butt. Then we were in at the mouth of a narrow canyon that cut into the rock wall in front of us.

Ray led the way, followed closely by his boys. “Keep an eye out for snakes,” he warned.

We slipped into the canyon. The rock walls were a conglomeration of rocks laid down when Arizona was under water. You could see where different layers of rock had been deposited in the sand of a sea bed, cemented there by pressure and time. The sea receded, leaving Arizona dry with many flat valleys between mountain ranges. Over thousands (if not millions?) of years, water had cut through this particular piece of rock, digging deeper with every storm. The slot canyon was narrow — even narrower than Antelope Canyon — but the walls were rough, lined with the rocks that had been deposited there millions of years ago.

Natural Bridge Deep in Slot CanyonThe canyon twisted and turned on a gentle downward slope, with an occasional drop of 2 to 4 feet where we had to scramble over boulder deposits. Inside, the air was cooler and, as the walls climbed on either side of us, cooler breezes blew past us. Sunlight didn’t get to the canyon floor this time of year, so the rock walls hadn’t heated. A side canyon entered suddenly from the left with a natural bridge of rock over it. As we continued down, a few other steep canyons joined in less dramatically. Then the canyon opened abruptly to a much wider canyon with steep walls and tire tracks on its sandy floor.

We all agreed that the canyon had been pretty cool. Ray led the way to the next one, which was a few hundred yards downstream in the big canyon. We walked up the canyon, but it was much shorter and ended with a 15-foot vertical wall. We retraced our footsteps out to the main canyon.

“There’s another one about a quarter mile away,” Ray told us. “Want to see that, too?”

Slot CanyonWe did, so we started walking. I think Ray’s estimation of distance was a little off. It had to be at least a half mile. The sun was still shining into the wide canyon, and it was warm. I’m out of shape and didn’t walk easily on the sandy canyon floor. But after passing a much narrower canyon that one of the boys explored on his own, we finally reached the third slot canyon. Like the others, it cut through the solid conglomeration of rocks with cool breezes along the way. And like the first canyon, it was long, stretching back into the mountain as it climbed. Mike and I and one of Ray’s boys went quite a distance, hoping we’d be able to climb out and see where the helicopters were parked. But it soon became apparent that we’d have at least a mile hike ahead of us — and we still might not see them. None of us wanted to walk that far, so we went back.

We retraced our steps back to the first canyon, chatting about all kinds of things on the way. Ray and Dave continued walking past its mouth, which was hidden behind a large palo verde tree. I don’t know if they really didn’t see it or if they were trying to fool us into walking past it. I wasn’t being fooled — at least not by that ploy. They had plenty of other gags to fool me with — Ray has a real talent for delivering pure bull with a straight face and Dave is the perfect straight man: normally trustworthy so you always believe what he says. (I know better now.)

Dave's and Ray's HelicoptersBack at the helicopters, we went straight for our cooler bag with its supply of water, Gatorade, cheese, and salami. We re-hydrated and snacked. Dave and his friend had to walk all the way back up the ridge to get their drinks and they didn’t come back. When we heard Dave start his engine, we knew it was time to leave.

I was just climbing into my helicopter when Dave took off and zoomed past us. Ray and I were ready to go at the same time. (It’s good helicopter outing etiquette to make sure no helicopter is left behind and Ray and I were watching out for each other.) Ray left first, popping off the ground like a champagne cork. I tried to be a bit more graceful but didn’t do much better. I followed the slot canyon — a narrow crack in the rock — down to the main canyon as I climbed. Ray was at my four o’clock. Dave was completely out of sight.

Jim might be slow, but Ray isn’t. He and I were flying neck and neck as we crossed the lake, but he inched his way past me as we climbed the flat valley east toward Wickenburg. By the Wayside Inn, he was a half mile ahead of me. He’d beat me back to Wickenburg by at least 3 minutes; the only reason it was that short a time was that I took a more direct route back, following my GPS’s advice. Dave had let his passenger off at the airport and was just getting ready to leave when I came in. He took off and I set down.

The sun was just setting.

It had been a nice little outing, one I really needed to do. Lately, the only time I fly is to take paying passengers on tours and charters or to go to or from a passenger pickup point. I’ve flown down to the Phoenix area so many times the past few months. After a while, it just isn’t fun. But outings like this — with friends in remote places, seeing cool things — is a better reason to fly. Even if someone else isn’t picking up the tab.

Hopi Tea

A soothing beverage from the Rez.

My first visit to the Hopi reservation was about 6 years ago. I was traveling in my Jeep with two friends. Our main destination was the annual Navajo Nation Fair in Window Rock, AZ, but my friend Shorty wanted to drive through the Hopi Reservation and visit Old Orabi, which is the oldest continually occupied village in North America. Shorty wanted to mail a letter to a friend with the Old Orabi (or possibly Hotevilla) postmark.

The Book of the HopiThe Hopi tribe, unlike many other Native American tribes in the Southwest, is working hard to hold onto its culture and heritage and keep it from being commercialized by outsiders. This is probably why so few people know anything about the Hopi people. Their ceremonies are usually closed to the public — as are entire villages sometimes — and photography is not allowed. The reservation is completely surrounded by the Navajo Reservation in northeastern Arizona and only a few paved roads go through it. There aren’t many shops or restaurants and there are no casinos. The place isn’t very tourist-friendly because they don’t want tourists around. (This may be changing as the Hopi tribe realizes the importance of tourist dollars for the tribe’s economy. I just hope they don’t lose their identity in the process.) You can read more about the Hopi people on the Tribe’s Web site or in The Book of the Hopi by Frank Waters.

With all this in mind, we drove into the reservation and found Old Orabi. I don’t remember much about it. The Hopi tribe are pueblo indians and they built their homes on the edge of the three Hopi mesas: First, Second, and Third Mesa. I remember walking around one of the villages, past ancient stone homes, some of which were still occupied.

Eventually, we got to the post office, which I think was in Hotevilla. I remember this a bit better. It was a standard tiny-town post office with a bulletin board in the outer vestibule, where all the mailboxes were. Shorty spotted an “ad” for blue corn meal. We made a call from a pay phone and were soon on our way to a Hopi home.

It was a more modern home than the stone structures in the old villages. We were invited inside and I remember being surprised at how remarkably “normal” it was. (I don’t know what I was expecting.) We sat on a sofa while kittens played around us. The Hopi woman we’d met there had a big galvanized metal trash can that was absolutely filled with finely ground corn meal. She measured out quantities of the stuff with a round, flat pan not unlike a cake pan and stuffed it into a Blue Bird Flour bag. She told us how the cornmeal had been ground as part of a wedding ceremony. This was the leftover cornmeal from that celebration. When the bag was full, Shorty handed over some money and took the bag. (I wound up buying about half of the cornmeal from Shorty and still have some in stock.)

The conversation turned to dance shawls. A friend of the woman’s made them and had some for sale. Were we interested in seeing them? Shorty was. So we hopped into the Jeep and followed the woman to her friend’s house. The shawls were pretty — square or rectangular with really long fringe — but the colors were too bright and gaudy for my taste. Shorty bought one or two, possibly to be polite. And then we got on our way.

This whole experience really made the visit to the Hopi reservation special to me.

From there, we stopped at the Hopi Cultural Center for a bite to eat. Unlike my companions, I had a traditional Hopi dish that included lamb. This was before the vendors started setting up stalls outside, so after lunch we continued on our way.

As we were leaving Second Mesa, we passed a shop on the left called Tsakurshovi. (Don’t ask me to say that.) We stopped in. It was a small shop that caters primarily to the Hopi people, offering the materials they need to conduct their ceremonies. There were dozens of traditional-style Hopi kachinas — figures carved to represent Hopi religious and ceremonial people — furs, herbs, and more. The shop had two small rooms and a friendly young Hopi man behind the counter.

Turns out, this shop is owned by the Days — Janice and Joe. Janice is Hopi, Joe is not Native American. And it was mentioned in a recent story on NPR, which interviewed Joe’s son, Jonathan. Jonathan grew up spending his summers on the Reservation and the rest of the year in Boston with his mother. He now lives in Flagstaff where he runs a shop that I suspect is very similar to his father’s.

Traditional Hopi Kachinas: A New Generation of CarversI don’t remember why I bought the hopi tea. Perhaps Shorty bought some. Perhaps I asked the guy behind the counter what the bundles of sticks in a Ziplok bag were all about. In any case, I bought a bag of three bundles of sticks for $4.

I also bought a copy of Jonathan Day’s book, Traditional Hopi Kachinas: A New Generation of Carvers, which I had autographed on the spot by the guy behind the counter, Wallace Hyeoma, who happened to be one of the featured artists (page 47). (A year later, I would return to the shop and buy several traditional style Kachinas, one of which was carved by Wallace’s uncle.)

We continued on our way, leaving the Hopi Reservation. Our next stop was at the Hubbell Trading Post, where I wound up buying a Navajo rug. But that’s another story.

Much later, when I returned home, I found the bundles of sticks in my luggage. I boiled some water, broke off a few sticks and leaves, and dropped them in. In minutes, I had a hot cup of some of the most soothing tea I’d ever tasted. Clean, fresh, and simply delicious. No need for sugar or milk or lemon. This tea, like green or jasmine tea, is perfect straight. Now I commonly drink it on cold, lazy afternoons, when I feel a cold coming on, or when I’m feeling blue. To me, it’s like a comfort food beverage.

Those three bundles of sticks lasted a long time. A few years ago, I was back on the Hopi reservation and bought more. But today, waking up with a head cold, I decided to forego my usual morning coffee in favor of the clean flavor of Hopi tea. As I brewed up a cup, I realized two things: (1) the long story of how I’d discovered Hopi tea might be interesting to at least a few blog readers and (2) I was running low again.

I did some research for this blog entry. I discovered that Hopi tea is from a plant commonly known as greenthread and scientifically known as Thelesperma filifolium. You can see some photos of it as a plant and stick bundles, learn how to brew it, and read about its medicinal values on the New Mexico State University’s Medicinal plant Web site. I learned that it grows in abundance in the Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni reservations of the Four Corners area. I also found an online source for purchasing Hopi tea online, High Desert Farmers. High Desert is a small scale grower which sells Hopi tea as traditional bundles (they call it “bulk”), loose, and as tea bags. Since the bundles weren’t available, I bought bags and loose. It cost me $14.50 (including shipping), but saved me a 200+ mile trip to the Hopi reservation.

If you like plain, soothing hot teas like green tea, you’ll probably like Hopi tea. If you ever see some in your travels, I recommend it. And I hope you story of first acquisition is as memorable to you as mine is to me.