Snowbirding 2021: My Travels with Bill

I make a new friend who is a real pleasure to travel with.

How many people have told me that I’ll meet someone interesting when I least expect it? Too many to count. And all of them were right.

I was camped along the Colorado River south of Ehrenberg, AZ, with my friend Janet in November when an ATV with two men on it rolled into camp. They asked who owned the truck — pointing at my truck — and I stepped forward. It seemed that one of them had gotten his Mercedes Sprinter van stuck in the sand not far from our site. Could I use my 4WD pickup to pull him out?

And that’s how I met Bill, a retired pilot who spends much of his time bumming around the west in his van. He climbed into my truck and rode back to his van with me, where I surveyed the situation. One of his back wheels was deep in the sand.

We chatted, unable to do anything without a tow strap or chain. (I’ve since bought one.) That’s when I learned he was a pilot and, like me, had his eye on a tug-style boat for cruising Puget Sound and beyond. Those were only two of many similarities between us, as I’d learn in the weeks and months to come.

The owner of the ATV, Dean, camps frequently along the river. While we were chatting, he drove around some more until he found someone with a tow chain. He brought a few supervisors with a long, thick chain back to where Bill’s van was stuck. I put my truck into 4L, locked the hubs, and backed into where he was stuck, stopping when I was close enough for the guys to hook up the chains. Bill climbed into his van and backed up out of the sand with my truck tugging him most of the way. Mission accomplished.

I waited while they loosened the chain, invited Bill to join us for our nightly campfire, and climbed back into my truck for a return to camp.

-o-

Bill didn’t show up for the campfire, but he did stop by in the morning. We chatted for a while. He kept saying he was on his way to Los Angeles and couldn’t stay long, but we kept chatting. Finally, he left us for his trip west, telling me that he’d try to come back in December, after taking care of an early Christmas and a bunch of family stuff in Oregon.

Over the next month or so, we occasionally exchanged texts.

He returned to my camp the day after Christmas. Janet had left that morning and I’d reconfigured my camp to bring my mobile workshop closer to my camper. Bill pulled in late in the afternoon, with groceries for dinner. We chatted the rest of the afternoon, though dinner, and then around the campfire.

In the morning, he joined me and my pups for our morning walk. We chatted the rest of the day away. I was floored by how much we had in common. Hell, he even had the same immersion coffee maker I have and use for camping. I don’t know anyone else who has one of those.

We walked again the next morning. And then he left.

-o-

About a week later, after exchanging a few text messages, I met up with him in California for a day trip to Salton Sea and Slab City in my truck.

Bombay Beach
How can I not like someone who will accompany me to a weird place like Bombay Beach on the Salton Sea?

The following week, he was back in my camp for two more nights. The first day, we drove out in my truck to a campground he likes in California and did some hiking out there. On the way back, we stopped so I could capture some video footage of a helicopter delivering men and equipment to power line towers; it was a real pleasure not to be rushed. The second day, we went to Cibola National Wildlife Preserve so I could show him the sandhill cranes out there. Along the way, we explored some potential camping areas.

Deserted Cabin
We did some hiking out by Cottonwood Springs, a campground he likes south of Desert Center, CA. Along the way, we found this deserted cabin which was obviously being maintained by a local group of people who care about historic buildings.

Then he was gone again.

-o-

Around the end of January, I finally packed up my campsite and headed out. I had some visiting to do before I made my way back home.

Up until that point, it had been a remarkably mild winter at home and, with my only scheduled art show cancelled due to COVID, I didn’t have much of a reason to stay in Arizona. After two and a half months living in a dusty environment, hauling my own water, and having to drive on 8 miles of gravel to buy a quart of milk, I was starting to think long and hard about a soak in my bathtub and the luxury of my dishwasher, washer, and dryer — none of which required a water transfer pump to use.

Clean Rig
Here’s my traveling rig, emerging from the truck wash where I got everything washed before hitting the road.

I spent one night in a 55+ RV park in Brenda, AZ, mostly so I could dump my tanks, fill up with fresh water, do some laundry, and take a good, hot shower. Then I dropped off my utility trailer with a friend in Wickenburg and headed south to Laveen to visit some friends there. From there, I went to Gilbert to stay with some other friends, enjoying the luxury of a king size bed and super fast Internet in their guest room. I’d had plans to try to find new wholesale accounts for my jewelry in the Phoenix area, but didn’t do any of that. Instead, I hung out with my friends, got my pups groomed, dyed my hair, did some shopping, and relaxed.

On Thursday, February 4, I had my annual flight physical and eye exam scheduled in North Phoenix. I said goodbye to my friends in Gilbert and headed north for those appointments. I spent that night in the desert just north of Lake Pleasant.

Lake Pleasant View
Here’s the view from my camper for the one night I spent north of Lake Pleasant.

I thought long and hard about my travel plans there. The weather at home was turning cold with snow in the forecast. I wasn’t in a hurry to get home anymore, but I didn’t feel like going up to Sedona and Prescott as I’d originally planned. I decided to go back to Wickenburg, fetch my utility trailer, spend a few days at Vulture Peak, and then head north. Death Valley might make a good interim destination.

-o-

But while I’d been traveling around, I’d also been texting back and forth with Bill. I’d told him about the hot spring north of Willow Beach on the Colorado River and he was interested in going to see it with me. We’d meet up somewhere, camp overnight at Willow Beach, and split the cost of a boat rental for a day at the hot springs.

The plan came together quickly after that.

He showed up at Vulture Peak. We spent two nights there, hiking part of Vulture Peak Trail in the middle day and enjoying campfires at night.

Vulture Peak Camp
I got my usual campsite at Vulture Peak and Bill pulled in right behind my trailer for the two nights we were there. For some reason, however — maybe the weekend? — the campsite had a lot of foot traffic wandering through, which made it a lot less pleasant than usual. I was glad to leave on Sunday.

We left Wickenburg on Super Bowl Sunday, heading north to Kingman for the night so Bill could lock in some fast Internet for the game. We spent the night parked side-by-side in a Cracker Barrel parking lot. (Beats Walmart.)

On Monday, morning, we left Kingman with a stop at the Kingman Turquoise shop along the way. I went in and spent way too much money on way more turquoise stones and beads than I should have. I have a design idea for a really interesting piece…

Kingman Turquoise
The Kingman Turquoise shop just north of Kingman, AZ, is like a candy store for jewelry makers who use turquoise. Bring your credit card.

He followed me from there to Willow Beach on the Colorado River, where we parked my trailer in a lot and then squeezed into a shared campsite, taking advantage of the discount he got with his lifetime National Parks pass.

Sunset at Willow Beach
Willow Beach’s sunset did not disappoint us.

Hot Springs
Tuesday morning at the hot spring. It was more crowded later in the day. I blogged about this hot spring here.

In the morning, we picked up a small motorboat and, with my pups, headed up the river. We spent at least four hours at the hot springs, dipping and soaking in the various tubs while other hikers came and went.

That evening, Bill led the way to a campsite he knew of up in the Eldorado Mountains south of Boulder City. It was a cool spot off a seldom-used road. I had great views down at the lights in Boulder City and Railroad Pass, with the glow of Las Vegas far in the distance.

In the morning, we climbed into his van for a trip farther down the road to visit the ghost town of Nelson. The two of us spent nearly an hour walking around the remains of old cars and equipment in the desert, snapping pictures everywhere.

Nelson
Here’s the museum/gift shop in the ghost town of Nelson. For just $1/person, you can wander around and shoot photos of the multitude of old cars and equipment parked around the yard.

On Wednesday, we went into Las Vegas to visit an old friend of mine from Wickenburg. I was glad to see Jim as active as ever at age 81, still working at the company he built years ago when I first met him, still coming up with unique solutions for new customers. Jim and Bill really hit it off; Bill grilled him about batteries and Jim had all the answers.

From Vegas, we continued on to Tecopa, where Bill wanted to show me a hot springs resort he knew. We originally signed up for two campsites for two nights but wound up taking advantage of a couple’s special that gave us sites for two for a week for only $250. We stayed six nights. I slid my camper off my truck while we were there so we could get around without taking one of our “houses” with us.

It was a great week. On most days, we soaked in a private tub in the morning before breakfast, then again in the afternoon before dinner and again in the evening before bed. The water was hot and soft and made my skin feel great. During the day, we’d choose a destination: Ibex Dunes and Sarasota Springs in Death Valley for two hikes, Shohone for a hike, China Date Ranch (twice) for hikes, Pahrump for a propane refill and some shopping. We spent one windy day in my rig just taking it easy, enjoying each other’s company.

China Date Ranch
The Amaragosa Trail hike from China Date Ranch takes you into the riverbed, where you can still see traces of the railroad that ran there years ago.

At Badwater
Here’s a real tourist shot at Badwater; Bill pointed out the Sea Level sign high on the cliff face beyond my rig.

From Tecopa, we headed into Death Valley, coming in through the Shoshone entrance and driving up the length of the park from the Ashford Mills ruins — which I’d last seen surrounded by yellow wildflowers during a super bloom a few years ago — and past Badwater, with a quick stop in Furnace Creek before driving the rest of the way up to Mesquite Springs. Bill had never been that far north in the park and was pleased by the dark, quiet night sky and uncrowded campground.

The next morning, Wednesday, we hiked around Ubehebe Crater in a howling wind. It was only a mile and a half, but there was a considerable climb early in the hike and lots of places to stop and look into smaller craters nearby. Back at camp, we took the rest of the day off.

Ubehebe Crater
Here’s a shot of Ubehebe Crater from the highest point on its rim. Normally, this hike might be very pleasant, but with a stiff wind, I was glad I’d bundled up.

On Thursday, the day I’m writing this, we decided to move on. Bill wanted to visit some friends in Los Angeles before he headed back to Oregon to take care of some family things. I had developed a sore toe that made long hikes painful. And although I had no idea what the weather was at home, I knew I should be on my way.

Darwin Falls
Darwin Falls is a surprising sight in the desert — and just a mile from the trailhead on a relatively easy path.

But rather than just part company, we decided on one more hike: a walk to Darwin Falls, a little-known spring-fed waterfall in Death Valley. I parked my rig at the Panamint Springs campground and he drove us to the trailhead in his van. We did the two-mile round-trip hike in about 90 minutes, stopping for about 20 minutes in the cool shade of the slot canyon at the falls before coming back.

Afterward, Bill drove me back to Panamint Springs and spent a little more time with me and my pups before saying goodbye and heading out. I was sad to see him go — I really had enjoyed our time together — but he’s already promised to come visit me at home. I’m looking forward to that.

-o-

Throughout all of our time together, I continued to be amazed at how much we thought alike and how compatible we were. I suspect he was, too.

We talked about everything — and I really do mean everything — and pretty much agreed on most of it. Better yet, he treated me like an intelligent adult. He was kind and generous and really seemed to want to hear my opinion of the things we talked about. It was a real intellectual treat for me. Like me, he knows a little about a lot of things and a lot about a few. Like me, he has a natural curiosity about things he hears about. I could — and did! — learn from him and he could — and did? — learn from me.

There’s more, but I won’t go into it here. After all, I don’t share every aspect of my life, despite what readers may think.

Anyway, the two weeks I spent with Bill will give me plenty to think about as I begin to gear up for the upcoming cherry season and start to plan my retirement. I’ve had other plans in the works for a while and he’s given me the push I need to start making things happen to reach new goals.

Meanwhile, I’m looking forward to more travels with Bill in the future.

Snowbirding 2021: The Drive South

A longer than usual drive made tolerable by recorded books.

As usual, I went south for the winter this year. And as of this week, I’ve already been away from home for a full month. I thought I’d write a few blog posts to catch you up on this year’s trip, starting with the drive south.

My Departure: Early on the Calendar, Late on the Clock

I left earlier than usual this year: Sunday, November 15. Earlier in the month, I’d made the decision to go — I’d been on the fence about it for months — and as the days got ever shorter I found myself eager to go. We’d already had some snow at home and I dreaded the thought of dealing with more on my trip. I was driving with my truck, truck camper, and 12-foot cargo trailer outfitted as a jewelry studio and had no desire to deal with slippery road conditions along the way.

The goal was to get deep into Oregon on that first day, but I had too much last-minute packing to do. By the time my rigs were packed, the camper was on the truck, and the trailer was hooked up, it was after 2 PM. Since I prefer not to drive in the dark these days, I knew I wouldn’t get far. I considered waiting until the next morning to depart, but my house-sitter was already installed and did not relish sleeping on the sofa while he slept in my bed. So I loaded up my pups, turned on the heated seat, and headed out.

Truck at Home
I snapped this photo before leaving on Sunday afternoon. My house sitter was watching from the deck, which is hidden from view in this shot.

I needed 4WD to get out of my driveway. There was just enough ice at the top of the little hill there to almost send me sliding backwards.

Although I’d skipped lunch and was really hungry, I didn’t stop until we reached my first overnight spot: Marysville State Park on the Columbia River at Route 97. Regular readers of my blog know that this is one of my preferred stops for winter driving with the camper. It’s cheap, there are pull-through spots, and the power is turned on (although not the water) at campsites. It was full dark when I arrived after 6 PM and I nearly missed the turn. I pulled in and slipped into a nice spot along the river. After a quick dinner of reheated leftovers, I took the girls for a walk through the fallen leaves to get a registration envelope. I’d pay on the way out.

You might be wondering why I was taking a route that would bring me through central Oregon rather that the much fast route through Idaho and down through Nevada. Two things. First, I had hopes of visiting a friend in the Sacramento area who is moving to Texas in the spring. Second, I wanted to visit a business where I was considering trying to get a job — remote, of course — in south central California. Route 97, which I’d taken many time when I worked in Central California in the spring, was not only a good direct route to both places, but it avoided the high elevation areas where it would be super cold and possibly snowy. I’ve had to stop for fuel in Jackpot, NV when it was -19°F and it wasn’t fun. Neither is dealing with frozen pipes in a camper.

Day 2: Oregon into California

We left just after dawn on Monday morning. I made one stop on the way out to pay the overnight fee and to use the central “winter water” spigot to top off my fresh water tanks.

Brand New Truckstop
This gas station looked brand new but wasn’t very busy at 7:30 AM.

Across the river, in Biggs Junction, I fueled up at what I think was a brand new fuel station. Fuel was much cheaper there than in Washington. I grabbed a McDonald’s breakfast at that truck stop town and got back on Route 97 south.

It rained.

There was fog.

The road was mostly empty, as it usually is, getting busy only by big towns like Redmond and Bend. I made a stop in a shopping center parking lot with some grassy islands and took my pups for a quick walk. Then back on the road.

The drive would have been boring if I wasn’t listening to an audiobook. I was working my way though Stephen King’s Dark Tower series, which I had been getting as audio books from the library. There’s nothing that makes a drive go faster than having something good to listen to. These books took a turn for the weird — even by King’s standards — in volume 5 or 6 but I did listen to them all by the time I got into Arizona.

I stopped for fuel just north of Klamath Falls. My pups walked a bit on a leash but didn’t do any business. I got back on the road. I figured I’d stop at a rest area I knew farther up where I could let them run off-leash. But when I asked about it at the agricultural inspection stop at the California border, they told me that rest area was closed. (And, fortunately, they didn’t take the 40-pounds of Honeycrisp apples I’d bought in Wenatchee to eat and give as gifts to friends.)

I passed a closed Forest Service Ranger Station with a big empty parking lot bordering on empty land and made a U-turn to go back to it. I let the girls have a run and do their business. I cut up one of those apples for a snack. We got back into the truck and continued on our way.

We eventually drove through Weed, CA and got onto the I-5 freeway. We’d been getting great views of Mt. Shasta for miles and miles and remembered a view area along the way. I found one — probably not the one I was thinking of, though — and pulled off, despite the NO RVS sign. It was empty. I parked where I could easily turn around and got out with the girls. On the way to the interpretive sign, I found traces of party gear: hypodermic needles, empty beer cans, and broken liquor bottles. We didn’t stay long.

Mt Shasta
My girls had plenty to sniff when we stopped at the lookout area for Mt. Shasta.

It was around 4 PM in the Redding, CA area that I decided I’d better find a place to stay. I’d covered more miles than I expected to, but not nearly as many as I needed to reach the possible overnight destination near Woodland I’d been thinking of. I saw a sign for a casino and got off the freeway. Casinos often allow free overnight RV parking and they have the added bonus of good security.

This casino had overnight parking, but it wasn’t free. Part of their lot had been set up with drive-through RV spaces, each equipped with water, power, and sewer hookups. The fee was $30 — not much more than I’d paid the night before for power only. There was an exercise trail, a golf cart shuttle to the casino (which had a restaurant), and good security I decided to stay.

I had to go into the casino to register and pay. That was an odd experience. Inside the door, I had to stop and stand at a sort of test station. An automatic system took my temperature while I pulled off my mask and got my picture taken. Inside, the place was packed and rules said you didn’t have to wear a mask if you were sitting down. All the slots were filled with unmasked people, half of whom were smoking. I made a bee-line to the registration desk and paid up, eager to be out of there. Even my idea of getting a meal to go from the restaurant evaporated. I wanted out.

That evening, after walking the dogs, I heard some guy walking around the parking area loudly calling out a woman’s name. When it didn’t stop after 20 minutes, I called the casino front desk and told them what was going on and that I was a little freaked out. (Honestly, I wasn’t frightened but it was annoying.) In less than 5 minutes, security arrived and the shouting guy was gone.

I took advantage of the hookups to use my microwave, wash all accumulated dishes, take a shower, and then dump both tanks before departing in the morning. My pups and I also took advantage of a nice trail that wound through the woods around the property, including down by a stream that feeds the Sacramento River.

Then it was back on the road.

Day 3: California All Day

By this time, my Sacramento friend had cancelled. She was feeling under the weather and at high risk for COVID. Although I’d suggested we get food to go somewhere and eat outdoors, she just wasn’t feeling up to it. That was fine. I had a lot of miles to cover anyway.

I’d originally considered stopping at an Apple store to buy a new iPad — mine has definitely seen better days — and a Trader Joe’s to stock up on some staples I wanted over the winter, but I decided against both things. I was planning to go to the Phoenix area over the weekend and could do both then. Instead, I just got on I-5 and headed south.

I tried to stop for fuel and a bite to eat in Woodland but couldn’t seem to find an easy-access fuel station that sold diesel. So I continued through the Sacramento area as my truck’s computer ticked down the miles until empty. I think I was on 12 when I finally found a truck stop in Lodi, CA. I fueled up, parked away from the pumps, and went inside to use the bathroom and get something to eat. I was on line at a Subway inside the truck stop when I realized that the food prep person wasn’t wearing a mask. I wound up getting lunch at another fast food place across the road.

I need to make it clear here that I really don’t like fast food and normally don’t eat it. But when you’re on the road, eager to put miles behind you, you take whatever you can get that’s quick and easy. So I ate a lot of crap on my trip south.

I continued down I-5 through California’s Central Valley. The freeway was in rough condition in some places — it’s such a shame we can’t take care of our infrastructure — and there was mostly farmland on both sides. Boring. I don’t like freeway driving, but it is usually the fastest way to travel. And by that time, I just wanted to be there.

But I did have one more stop: that business I mentioned earlier. I don’t want to go into details here. I’ll just say that I needed to visit the factory for a company I thought was up-and-coming based on information I’d gotten from an insider. I was hoping for a job doing communications work, including making videos of their products in production and use. I was thinking that a salaried job that paid me for getting work done (instead of punching a clock) and included benefits like a healthcare plan would be a good thing to transition into over time.

All that changed when I arrived at the factory. It wasn’t at all what I expected. And as the manager gave me a tour of the place and I realized how far behind they were in production, any thoughts I had of joining the team vanished. There was no place for me there. I wondered about my insider friend and how he could possibly believe the overly optimistic things he’d told me.

Cropduster at Night
Crop-dusters in southern California fly after dark. This plane had FOUR headlights.

Anyway, I got permission to camp in the parking lot overnight, so I did. It was in a weird industrial place near an airport. I got to watch a crop-duster come and go until long after sunset. Otherwise, it was pretty quiet. I slept well and as soon as the manager opened the gate and came into work, I pulled out of the lot and continued my drive.

Day 4: Arizona, Finally!

It rained on me as I drove east along the farm roads to Route 99. I was planning on crossing the mountains at Tehachapi, not wanting to deal with the Freeway traffic of southern California. The rain stopped before I’d reach the pass. I stopped for gas and a pee at an absolutely disgusting gas station in Tehachapi before getting back on the road. GoogleMaps took me on a detour I don’t think I needed to take, then dumped me in a desert city, putting me on roads with traffic lights and suburban stop-and-go traffic. After a half hour of that, I left the traffic behind me and headed east on Pearblossom Highway. Eventually, I hit I-15 and took that to I-10. We continued through the Palm Springs area and climbed up from sea level toward Arizona.

It had been a long time since I’d driven on most of those roads and I don’t think I would have chosen them myself. But I was so disillusioned about my factory visit the day before that all I could think about was ending the drive and starting my winter vacation. I was tired of driving. I just wanted to be there already. So I let GoogleMaps pick the route and went with it. Other than the unnecessary detour, it was pretty direct.

I was down to 60 miles left on my truck’s computer when I crossed the Colorado River on I-10 and took Exit 1. I had two different campsites in mind: the one we’d occupied the year before and another one about 5 miles south. Timing was everything, I knew, and I’d take the first one I found open. That was the one we’d been in the year before. I backed the trailer in, unhooked it, and repositioned my truck for the night, relieved to be done driving.

The Campsite

I didn’t drop the camper off the truck. Why? Well, my friend Janet would be joining me for part of my stay and she didn’t want to camp in that site. There wasn’t enough sun for her; although my solar panels are on my camper’s roof, she uses a portable solar panel that she puts on the ground. That site is surrounded by tall reeds so the sun doesn’t hit her panel until after 9 AM. She had no interest in putting her panel on her camper’s roof, even though that had worked for her the previous year.

The site I was parked on was one of a pair separated from each other by a boat ramp. Friends of ours had occupied that site the previous year. The other spot was larger and a bit sunnier. But it was also occupied. I figured I could keep the camper on the truck and slip into the other spot when the folks in it left.

Campsite One
Here I am after landing at the first campsite and finally disconnecting the trailer. I was glad to be done driving.

But, at the same time, I’d just driven 1,300 miles in four days, much of it through rain, and I wasn’t interested in searching for another campsite. So I spent the night there, with my camper still atop my rig.

In the morning, I felt rested and ready to stock up on a few supplies. I didn’t mind driving with the camper on my truck — hell, I’d just spent the past four days doing it. But, at the same time, I wondered whether the other site I’d been interested was available and, if so, what kind of condition it was in. The area was heavily used during the summer and some of the sites accumulated a lot of trash. It wasn’t uncommon for us to spend a bunch of time cleaning up after others when we camped. The site I was interested in had had a car wreck in the middle of it the last time I’d visited. I could only imagine what else was there.

But I didn’t need to imagine. I got into my truck and, leaving the trailer behind to hold the campsite for me, headed south on the gravel road.

Most of the campsites along the way were occupied and looked as if they had been for some time. One site along the road was available, but I knew how dusty it could get. I drove for miles along the river. The road was in dismal condition, with washboarding and potholes. I bounced along at 20 miles per hour, wondering how much cleaning up I’d have to do in my camper when I parked. Finally, I reached the turn for the site I liked. I peeked down its road before turning in. Nothing. I turned and drove to the end.

It was empty. It was even clean. Even the wrecked car had been moved.

I called Janet and asked if that site would work for her, knowing it would. It was a lot sunnier. Like the other site, it had a boat ramp that led down to a backwater channel where we could paddle our boats and fish. This channel didn’t exit to the river — it was fed from culvert pipes that ran between it and the river and another channel — but it was about a mile long. I’d camped there in the past with her once and I think she’d camped there several times.

She gave me the green light. I chose a spot for my camper and backed in. 15 minutes later, it was parked on its legs in a level spot and my truck was free of its burden.

I drove back up the road to fetch my trailer and parked it a short distance away in the new campsite. Then, making sure everything was locked up, I drove back up the road and into Blythe for some groceries.

I got back to my new camp just after 2 PM and spent the rest of the day setting up camp. It was great to be done driving.

Sunset
The view of sunset across the Colorado River from the main road a few hundred yards from camp. Arizona has been treating us to quite a few magnificent sunrises and sunsets since we’ve been here.

Janet would join me with her rigs four days later.

Western Washington Wander 2020: Dungeness Recreation Area

I spend two nights in a pleasant campground, recovering from a weekend of hard work and bad air.

Last year, I spent a weekend in Port Angeles, WA, on the Olympic Peninsula, selling my jewelry — or at least trying to — at a rock show there. I had done very well in January at a rock show in Mesa, AZ, and figured that might just be my niche. It wasn’t. I barely made enough to make the trip all the way out there worthwhile.

While I was at the show, I camped out in a corner of the municipal parking lot. It was surprisingly pleasant — heck, deer came out of the woods right there to nibble on the blackberries that grew beside the spaces — but I knew damn well that I’d be overstaying my welcome if I spent the night after the show there. So I whipped out my public lands campground app, Ultimate CG, and found Dungeness Recreation Area, a county park just down the road in Sequim.

It was raining gently when I arrived just before dark and I found a campsite in one of the loops. It was surprisingly large and private, as were most of the other sites. Very pleasant. And I had the added bonus of finding a few very healthy lobster mushrooms at the back of my site in the woods.

Settling in at Dungeness

All that was on my mind when I left Eatonville and headed west. It was a 2-1/2 hour drive and I arrived at least a half hour after dark. With those lobster mushrooms in my mind, I tried to remember what site I’d been in. I wound up in the site right next to it.

Campsite1
Here’s a photo I shot in the morning of my truck backed into our campsite. There was lots of privacy with dense vegetation on either side of us.

Campsite 2
The campsite was spacious with a picnic table, fire pit (just out of the shot), and enough space to erect multiple tents. Because there was no campsite behind ours, we had the illusion of woods going on forever.

I was dead tired and tightly wound when I backed into the spot, using a lantern as a parking guide. It was darker than I thought possible for a county campground. I absolutely hate driving at night in an unfamiliar area and the last 45 minutes had been stressful for me. I was glad to get in. I had just enough energy left to take the girls for a quick business walk, make us all dinner, and then take one more short walk for good luck. I had the pay envelope, but it didn’t give a rate anywhere on it and I certainly wasn’t going to walk all the way back to the pay station in complete darkness anyway. I’d pay in the morning.

I slept surprisingly well. Well, maybe not so surprising when I think about how tired I was. I made my coffee while the girls were still asleep and managed to finish half of it before they woke up. Then it was time to take them for a walk.

And that was the drawback of staying at a real campground: I couldn’t just open the door and let them out to pee. I had to put them on leashes and take them for a walk.

I got dressed, grabbed the campground registration form I’d filled out the night before, put some money in my pocket, and leashed up the girls. Then we set out toward the pay station.

Fire Map
There were fires burning throughout Washington, Oregon, and California (not shown on this map). The smoke in the west had become “hazardous.”

It was a pleasant walk despite the foglike smoke that had settled over the area. Visibility couldn’t have been more than a half mile, but since we were walking in the damp forest, it didn’t really matter. We cut through the campground on a path I’d remembered from the previous year. The girls sniffed and did their business along the way.

At the pay station, I put $26 in the envelope and noted the 12 noon checkout time. I grabbed a park map and we headed back to the camper. I finished my coffee and made us all breakfast.

Full Day at Dungeness

The plan that day was to hike out on a path along the ocean known as “the Spit.” There was a lighthouse at the end that I’d never seen. So after breakfast I packed up a small daypack with rain gear — there was rain in the forecast — bottled water, and some snacks. I almost put the binoculars in there but then wondered what I expected to look at with visibility so low and put them away.

We cut out along another path through the woods that took us toward the Spit trailhead. I really love the forest in that park. It was dense and damp but somehow still bright. The forest floor was thick with pine needles and branches and leafy undergrowth. In wetter conditions, it would likely be full of all kinds of mushrooms. It had a sort of atmosphere that seemed to absorb sound, or at least make it quieter.

We emerged at the end of the trail at a parking area and crossed it to the trailhead. I looked at the signs to learn more about the hike. Of course, the one I noticed first was the one that said “No Pets.”

Okay, to be fair it was a wildlife refuge. And yes, I do get the fact that park managers don’t want big bumbling dogs — or even small ones, for that matter — chasing wildlife. But I was still disappointed. I was really looking forward to a walk on the beach with my pups.

Fortunately, Dungeness has many trails. Without wasting anymore time there, I headed off on the one that went along the bluffs with my two little dogs in tow.

Hike Map
The orange line marks our hike route. You can see it on GaiaGPS, along with the one crappy photo I took.

We spent the next hour or so meandering on trails throughout the park, passing a handful of mostly masked hikers along the way. (I’m sorry, but although I do believe that masks help prevent the spread of the virus, I don’t believe they’re necessary when hiking outdoors, especially in places where the chances of passing another person are slim. I should add here that all the people I saw wearing masks along the trails were seniors so maybe they felt more at risk? I kept my distance from them.) The only wildlife I saw were squirrels, birds, and a single deer.

At one point, a woman with two medium sized dogs warned me that her dogs weren’t friendly; as if to prove her point, the two dogs strained at their leashes, growling and barking as they tried to get at my pups. To their credit, my girls hurried past them on short leashes. (Poor Lily looked absolutely terrified.) But it makes me wonder why someone wouldn’t better socialize their dogs before taking them out in public where there might be other dogs. Seriously folks: either you’re going to make your dog a part of your life and train it appropriately or you’re not. There’s very little middle ground.

One thing I noticed along the walk was that I was getting tired a lot more quickly than I should have been. The trails were relatively flat and very easy walking, yet I felt exhausted and had a headache within the first mile and a half. My left knee was aching. I definitely did not feel like hitting the road again to places unknown. I felt like taking a nap. And it wasn’t even 11 AM.

So we stopped at the pay station on the way back to camp. I filled out another envelope and stuck another $26 into it. I’d spend the day there at the park, just taking it easy, and head out the next day.

To my credit, I did hike about 2-1/4 miles that morning — basically the same walk I do three times a week with a neighbor at home.

A Lazy Afternoon

Rosie and Lily
The bench seat on my RV’s dinette is small, but both pups managed to squeeze in a nap sitting next to me sometime during our stay at the park.

After a satisfactory visit to one of the campground’s coin-op showers, I reheated the previous night’s leftovers for lunch and did a little work on my blog outside at the picnic table. I tried leaving my pups off-leash at the campsite, but they invariably got “the zoomies” and chased each other out of the campsite boundaries, winding up at someone else’s site where Rosie went in for pets and Lily played keep-away. Around 2 PM, I went in for a nap with the girls. They’d skipped breakfast — sometimes they’re finicky — but wound up eating most of their food for lunch. We all climbed up on the bed together. I read for a while and then fell asleep.

I had begun wondering whether my spent feeling was due to the bad air or possible COVID exposure during my travels. I’d been with two other people, all of us maskless in a large open indoor area, all weekend. As I’ve been doing occasionally since the virus has begun spreading, I cataloged my symptoms: mild cough, mild sore throat, headache, general feeling of fatigue. I managed to get a good enough Internet connection to check the air quality in my area and saw that it was over 300: Hazardous. Maybe breathing bad air was making me sick? Whodathunkit?

Rack of Lamb on the Barbie
I used aluminum foil to protect the meat from the flames I knew would start up when fat hit the burners. My portable BBQ grill is very temperamental, but keeping it set to low and closing the lid gave me the ovenlike cooking I wanted.

I started dinner at 5 PM. I’d defrosted a rack of lamb and had decided to cook it on my grill instead of coating my camper’s tiny oven with spattered lamb fat. I’d never cooked rack of lamb on the grill before. I also didn’t have a meat thermometer with me. Amazingly, however, I managed to pull it off, ending up with a perfectly cooked rack that I served up with pan-fried garden potatoes and the last of my garden scallions. I had sliced figs on the side. I put half the rack in the fridge for lunch the next day.

A Feeling of Malaise

We went for two more short walks before bedtime. The nap had really helped me. I think that just taking it easy and breathing less of that bad air is what really helped me.

But I had also begun feeling as if I’d fallen into a sort of mental funk. Was I depressed? Maybe.

The situation in this country is really out of control. Between the virus and the wildfires (and their smoke) and the bullshit politics, I really don’t know how anyone can remain upbeat. There’s just too much stupidity, hate, and anger in this country these days.

I’m looking forward to a Biden presidency, but if it’s stolen from him (as it was stolen from Clinton in 2016) by foreign players and Electoral College inequities, I don’t know what I will do. I know I can’t live through four more years of what we have now but I don’t want to abandon the life I’ve built for myself and become an expat. I can’t see a compromise without putting on blinders and ignoring the damage being done to our country, its reputation in the world, and its people.

And even if Biden does win, I have worry that wacko Trump supporters — and I do mean wacko — will try to start a civil war, spurred on by Trump and Fox News. They’ve been fed a steady diet of lies about Biden and the democratic party and they honestly fear for their way of life. How can we hope to undo the damage of those lies? How can we help them see reason? I think it’s impossible.

Every day more negative stories about Trump are emerging — even stories with him on tape admitting that he misled the American people! Yet none of these stories are penetrating the thick skulls of his supporters to help them see reason. They truly are cult members. Cult members with guns who don’t think twice about ending another person’s life.

Anyway, I’ve been avoiding talking politics in my blog because, honestly, I’m sick of it. But I needed to get this off my chest, to explain the general feeling of malaise that has come over me. I think that it’s a combination of these things: COVID, smoke/fires, and politics. I suspect that if COVID and the smoke weren’t part of the big picture in my life, I’d be able to better deal with the politics. But I can’t.

[And if you’re a Trump supporter reading this, FUCK YOU. I have zero tolerance these days for people STUPID and UNPATRIOTIC enough to support the greedy, racist, narcissistic conman in the White House. I hope someday you WAKE THE FUCK UP and realize how much damage he’s done to this country. In the meantime, please leave a big, long comment on this blog post so I can have the pleasure of marking it as spam without even reading it. I want you to waste your time trying unsuccessfully to share your bullshit with my blog readers. You might want to read this if you’re worried about your First Amendment rights.]

A Peaceful, Restful Night

Sometime during the afternoon, a light rain started up. I love the sound of rain on the roof of my camper and that cheered me considerably. It was the first rain I’d experienced since June 28 and I was ready for it.

The campground was amazingly quiet; no generators, no barking dogs, no screaming kids. I think that’s what I liked most about the campground — large private sites, sparsely populated on weeknights, with very little camper noise. It gave me the illusion of staying someplace like Buck Creek Camp with the benefit of toilets, showers, and garbage receptacles.

Throughout the night, the rain came and went. Even when it wasn’t raining, I could hear big drops from the trees on top of the camper. It was like music to my ears. I slept well and woke refreshed.

The afternoon before, I’d booked a campsite at one of the coastal campgrounds in Olympic National Park. Although I had my doubts about the campground, I was able to get a site right on the ocean. It was 2-1/2 hours away. After breakfast and two dog walks, I packed up my grill, neatened up the camper, and pulled out for a leisurely drive west.

I would definitely get my walk on the beach that day.

Western Washington Wander 2020: The Blacksmithing Weekend

Two days of heating and hammering metal.

I have been interested in blacksmithing — heating and hammering metal to shape it — for a while now. In a sense, it’s related to the metalsmithing work I do with my silver and copper jewelry, but rather than cold working relatively small pieces of soft (annealed) metals, blacksmithing involves hot working larger, harder metal: steel. So last month, when the Tacoma Metal Arts Center announced the Blacksmithing Weekend course in the Seattle area, I immediately signed up for it and then began planning my vacation around it.

And that’s why I was in Eatonville on Saturday morning after a terrible night’s sleep, following Google’s directions to a five-acre farm with a huge shop on the outskirts of town.

The Setup

Mike on YouTube

Mike has a YouTube channel to provide information about the equipment he makes. He’s also interested in doing tutorials. If you’re reading this because you searched for “blacksmithing,” be sure to check out his YouTube channel, Mathewson Metals, and give him feedback about what you’d like to see. Oh, and please do subscribe; that’ll help motivate him to make more content.

The class was taught by Mike Mathewson of Mathewson Metals. Mike has been blacksmithing for years and has done all kinds of work, from the small projects we created over the next two days and tools to much larger furniture and architectural installations. He’s also the inventor and manufacturer of several different simple, affordable, propane-powered forges, one of which was in use for the whole weekend.

Forge
This is the MetalSmith Propane Forge that we used in class. You can see a video of it in action here.

The class was conducted on one side of his 48 x 72 foot shop building, with the big sliding door on that end wide open to let in lots of air. (The air wasn’t anything we could call fresh, though, since the wildfire smoke situation only worsened over the weekend.) He had the one forge set up as well as several anvils and vices, with dozens of hammers in all shapes and sizes to choose from. He used an amazingly quiet Jet metal saw to cut the 3/8 inch mild steel rods we used for our projects and I watched it in awe nearly every time he ran it. He had lots of other equipment that we didn’t use, like an old Little Giant power hammer and various cutting and finishing tools. The place was a bit of a mess outside our work area; he had only been in the space a little more than a year and he was still figuring out the final organization he wanted. He spent a lot of time organizing while we worked on our own, staying nearby in case we had questions or needed help.

Because of COVID-19, class size was limited to four students. We started with three: me, Travis, and Gary. Gary made a phone call while I went back to my rig to get a flannel shirt. When I returned he was apologizing and saying goodbye; his wife was ill and he needed to get back home. So that left two of us for the class, which was fine with me.

Travis already had a forge and anvil and a bunch of other equipment at home. He was serious about learning blacksmithing and wasn’t moving forward with his self-taught skills. I hoped he’d get an “aha moment” that helped him break through whatever was blocking him in his own shop.

Of course, I wasn’t very serious at all — I just wanted to try it out — so if there were any situations where we had to work one at a time, I usually let Travis go first. As the weekend wore on, we developed a good working rhythm when we had to share a tool; while I heated my piece, he’d work on his and then we’d switch positions. Very efficient. I’m not sure if it would have gone that smoothly with three of us.

The Projects

Mike has obviously taught this many times before. He’s a good, patient teacher who explains everything clearly before we start work. He uses visual aids when necessary to illustrate processes. He is encouraging and never tells you when you get something wrong — unless neither of us did? Instead, he points out a way you can do it better or easier to guide you on the right path.

Nail Hook
Here’s the nail hook project. From left to right: bar we started with (this is actually Gary’s, which he never did more than mark with dots to identify as his), my version, Travis’s version, and the model we were going for. I made my nail part too long so I made my twist a lot shorter — too short? — and ended up with a sort of wimpy hook.

We did four projects, all of which were made from varying lengths of round or square 3/8 inch mild steel rod: a nail hook, a pair of blacksmithing tongs, a fork, and a spoon. Each project taught and gave us an opportunity to try or practice specific skills. For example, the nail hook got us to hammer one end into a point, hammer the other end into a paddle, twist the rod, and then bend the rod in a variety of ways. The blacksmithing tongs had us create two rectangular paddles, bend the paddles to be able to grip 3/8 inch steel rods, bend the rods into a scissors shape, and then rivet a pivot point between them. You’d start a project thinking “how the hell am I going to be able to make that?” and Mike would break it down, step-by-step until you were done.

I have to admit that I was surprised that I was able to “keep up” with the class — especially given that my classmate already had some experience and I had none. Well, that’s not actually true. A lot of my silver/copper forming techniques did apply to the steel work. I think that’s what allowed me to give most of my shapes a decent form and not embarrass myself.

My Blacksmithing Projects
My four projects. They need to be wire-brushed to take the fire scale off.

The class ran two full days — 10 AM to 6 PM — with just 30 to 45 minutes for lunch. In that time we finished three of the projects and had gotten a good start on the last one, the spoon, which only required that we finish it to match the fork. Travis will probably finish his up this coming weekend; mine will likely remain as is forever.

Fringe Benefits

Pigs
A look over the fence at the pigs, which were actually quite large and didn’t stink.

A fringe benefit for me at the class is that Mike kindly let me park in his yard overnight, so I didn’t have to scramble (again) for a place to stay. He had me back into a space near his pig yard, then moved the two pigs out so I wouldn’t be bothered by their grunting. The space behind my rig was perfect for my pups to go out and take a pee first or last thing in the day.

Blackberries
There were a ton of huge, fresh blackberries along the road in front of Mike’s house.

We also went for walks out on the road in front of his home. The first walk is when I spotted the blackberries, which were mostly ripe and ready for picking. I ate a few right off the bushes. Later, I asked for permission to pick them and filled an empty clamshell container (previously holding a pound of fresh dates) with the nicest blackberries I’d ever seen. I’ve been eating them with breakfast since then.

On to the Next Destination

When class was over, it was time for me to bug out. I had planned to stay at Dungeness Recreation Area near Port Angeles that night. It was over two hours away by car. I detest driving in unfamiliar areas at night, so the last half hour or so was brutal for me. We made it by just after 8 PM and I was very happy to back into a campsite in the forest.

Western Washington Wander 2020: A Driving Day with a Crappy Campsite

I spend much of the day on the road, driving into smoke and spending the night in a crappy place.

Friday was a driving day for me that was a lot longer than it should have been. The only highlights were lunch with friends and a long-postponed trip to Trader Joe’s. Even my campsite that night sucked.

So I’ll keep this short.

The Long Drive

I needed to be in Maple Valley at noon to meet some old friends for lunch. Normally, that would be less than an hour from where I was camped at Buck Creek Camp: Go northwest on 410 to Enumclaw and then north on 169 to Maple Valley. Easy.

Route to Maple Valley
Not exactly the most direct route to my destination.

But a fire had route 410 closed at Greenwater and there was apparently no way to get through. So I had to go around to the south before going west, basically circumnavigating Mt. Rainier National Park. That made it a 3-hour drive.

Of course, I didn’t know that when I pulled out of my campsite at 8 AM sharp. I knew the road was closed and that I’d have to go around the long way, but I had no idea how long that long way was. I had no Internet access and couldn’t use Google Maps to calculate drive time. So I thought I’d make a leisurely drive around the park and get there with time to spare.

I realized this wasn’t the case after stopping for fuel at Packwood and using Google Maps to give me a good route with timing. That’s when I discovered, at after 9 AM — I guess I forgot to mention stopping at a bakery and going about 5 miles out of my way in search of a ranger station — that I still had a 2 hour and 16 minute drive ahead of me. If I left at that moment, I could be there by 11:52.

Holy crap.

So I drove. I took a winding road north from Packwood to the National Park Road and continued west on another road and another road through a succession of towns, each getting a little bigger and more traffic-filled than the one before it. For the first time in days, I was stopping at traffic lights and seeing red lines on Google Maps.

And that’s when I started experiencing the smoke that has blanketed the entire state. It started as a haze and got thicker and thicker until I couldn’t see far ahead. I couldn’t smell it, but by the end of the day I’d have a sore throat.

Air Quality
Here’s a picture of the air quality situation on Friday. It hovered around 300 where I was.

Anyway, after a miserable 2+ hours of driving, I finally arrived at my destination: a restaurant in Maple Valley, WA. I parked my rig, took my pups out for a quick pee walk, stowed them in the camper where they had access to food and water, and met my friends for lunch.

A Few Hours in Civilization

The friends I met were Don and Johnie, a couple I’ve known for at least 10 years. Don was a Robinson R44 owner and helped me find hangar space at Deer Valley Airport in Arizona for a season or two before my divorce, when I really tried to make a go of helicopter charter work down there. Don has since sold his helicopter and embraced retirement. I don’t see them often, despite the fact that their summer home is right on the other side of the mountains from me and he has a helipad in his yard. Even stranger is that, like me, they go to Arizona in the winter time and I seldom see them there, either.

It was nice to catch up with them. They’ve been mostly sheltering in place, seeing very few people. This particular restaurant was one of the few they felt comfortable eating at, although they preferred eating on the outdoor patio, which was closed that day due to the smoke. They’re heading back down to Arizona later this month and I’ll make a special effort to meet up with them when I’m in their area.

After lunch, I had Google Maps direct me to the nearest Trader Joe’s. I was in search of figs, which I buy at Trader Joe’s every autumn. They did not disappoint me; I bought three pounds. I also bought some of their olive oil sardines, sugar free chocolate bars, tamales, and the fixings I need to make my granola — mostly unsweetened coconut and flax seeds which are nearly impossible to find at a reasonable price in Wenatchee. By the time I left with my three bags full of food, there was a line to get in; I didn’t realize it, but they were limiting access to the store during the pandemic and I was lucky to be able to get right in.

One more quick stop — this time at a Lowes. I bought a pair of leather gloves and eye protection that I’d need for the blacksmithing course I was starting the next day.

The Crappy Campsite

By that time, it was after 3 PM. I needed a place to park for the night and I didn’t see any decent options between there and my morning destination in Eatonville. I took a route that kept me as close to the national forest as possible, hoping for a forest road I could slip down and park along. But no joy.

In the end, I wound up parking in a mostly empty lot in the town of Eatonville. I spoke to the guys at the used car place across the street and they assured me that the owner of the lot didn’t care who parked there and that semis parked there all the time. I did notice a police car cruising through slowly to check me out, but no one bothered me.

Bad Air in Eatonville
Here’s a view out my window in my Eatonville “camp.” That tiny orange dot just under the wires is the sun.

I took the girls for a walk to a nearby restaurant called Shaken, which had outdoor dining. I figured I’d get a drink and a snack. I thought the place might be nice but it turned out to be kind of redneck. They played country music and none of the servers wore their masks properly. I ordered a drink and food; the drink came quickly and was okay but the food never came. I flagged down the waitress and told her I’d take it to go. She came back a moment later to ask me what I’d ordered. They never made it; I think she forgot to put the order in. I got the check for the drink, paid it, and left. Against my better judgement, I did give her a tip. She had, after all, gotten water for my pups.

I had a terrible night’s sleep. I heard cars go by all night and it didn’t quiet down until after midnight. Some people walked by at 2:30 AM, talking loud enough to wake the girls and get them growling.

I was out of bed by 4 AM. I spent some time working on blog posts and drinking coffee. The girls woke up when it got light out and I took them for a walk. There was a coffee place across the street and I got a breakfast sandwich from them. Pre-made, microwaved. Edible but barely.

By 8 AM, I decided to move on.