Western Washington Wander 2020: American River Campsite

I spend Night 2 of my trip in one of two great sites along the American River.

I had errands to run on Wednesday that were along my intended route and they wound up taking up most of the day.

Gallery One

Gallery One in Ellensburg is one of the three art galleries where I currently sell my jewelry. It had taken a bit of effort to break in — they weren’t interested in the wire framed jewelry I was making two years ago. But when I did get them to show my jewelry, they started selling it quickly. Since then, they’ve asked for more.

COVID-19 hit the gallery and its artists hard. They were shut down for quite a while and only recently opened up. In the meantime, they decided to dive into the world of online sales. They struggled a bit in the beginning — they had two separate inventory systems and it was difficult to keep track of what was available and what had been sold. But they recently got set up with a new system and a person whose job it was to maintain the shop. They sent out an email to all their artists, asking them to send new items as soon as possible.

Since I was going to be in the area anyway, I stopped by with my inventory, which fits in a number of cases in a carry bag. To my surprise, the store manager was there! To my bigger surprise, she wanted me to leave her 15 to 20 pendants.

I balked. Unfortunately, Gallery One sells my work on consignment. They take a whopping 40% commission. Leaving them 20 pieces of my work means I have 20 fewer pieces in inventory that I can sell and get full price for. I have to hope that they can sell those 20 pieces and be satisfied with what I get. Needless to say, this is not a good deal for me if I continue to sell at shows and on Etsy, especially if they don’t sell at all.

She must have realized that all this was going through my head when I didn’t answer enthusiastically right away. I told her I had a show in Leavenworth in the beginning of October. She told me that she could wait until after that — as long as it was in the beginning of the month. (It is.) In the meantime, I gave her eight pairs of earrings that I know she’ll be able to sell quickly. I have a ton of earrings in inventory.

Crab Tater Tots
Crab tater tots. Yes, they tasted as good as they looked.

Afterward, I went next door to the Pearl Bar and Grill for lunch. It was the first time I’d eaten inside a restaurant since my trip to Oregon in May.

The Lance Dealer

Since my intended route had me going very close to Yakima and my camper stove was on the fritz, I decided to stop at the Lance dealer to see if they could give me a quick fix. The problem was minor — the sparker for one of the burners wasn’t working right and I had to use a lighter to get it going. I’d bought the camper there and since they’re apparently one of the best selling Lance dealers in the country — who knew? — I figured that if anyone could troubleshoot it, it would be them.

The mechanic was busy with something else, but told me what to look at. Then one of the owners, Mike, got involved. Soon he saw that the problem was caused by a tiny crack in the porcelain where the spark reaches the burner. The solution was a new burner. He went in the back and came out 15 minutes later with a burner in his hand. “I can’t believe we have this,” he said. “They stopped making that stove 10 years ago. This is probably the last one on the west coast. I’m trying to find out the price.”

While he went back into the office, his brother told me that he’d probably taken it off another rig.

He came back and said it was $27. He said he thought he might have taken it off a stove on a new camper that arrived dented. “When they arrive damaged, Lance just sends a new stove,” he told me. “So you have a choice: you can pay $27 for this or keep using a lighter.”

I splurged for the $27 burner. It was brand new. He installed it for free.

All this had taken well over an hour. I never get away without spending at least an hour there. Mike tried to talk to me about politics — he’s a bit of a conspiracy theorist — and I kept changing the subject. I was relived that he and his brother both wore masks while I was there. It told me they were taking the virus seriously.

I paid up and hit the road again.

Campsite on the American River

At this point, it was late in the afternoon and I wanted to get to my campsite. I took 97 back north a bit and then turned onto Route 12 westbound.

Last year, when I’d come back from a jewelry making class in Tacoma, I’d found what I considered the perfect campsite just off Route 410 on the east side of Chinook Pass. My idea was to spend the night there and then do a hike around Tips Lake, a little lake at Chinook Pass, in the morning.

My plans were almost ruined by a road closure sign. According to the sign, Route 410 was closed at mile marker 92. I pulled over where Route 12 and Route 410 meet to double-checked it online. WADOT had the same information. Trouble was, I didn’t know what mile marker my intended campsite was at. Maybe it was before 92?

I made a management decision: I continued on to 410 westbound.

It was actually a good thing I did. The road was not closed. I reached mile marker 92 and saw a few signs pushed aside. I didn’t see any sign of a fire. I kept going.

The trick was finding the campsite and being prepared to go back to a different place if it was occupied. I passed one Forest Service campground after another, most of which were closed. I also passed a bunch of forest roads that I might be able to explore for a site.

Meanwhile, mileage signs we telling me I was getting ever closer to Chinook Pass. I was definitely climbing. There was a river on my left. Soon, I was crossing it on a bridge. I knew the campsite was right beside one of those bridges, right on the river.

I passed the trailhead for Union Falls and filed it away in my head for a possible campsite if I couldn’t get the one I wanted. And then there it was, on my right. But there were people camped in it.

I knew that there was another campsite across the river and my eyes shifted as I slowed down. It looked vacant. The turn was a little bit up the road. I turned in and drove slowly down the gravel road. The site was empty.

The site was huge and could easily accommodate several RVs and tents. It had been occupied by a big group when I stayed across the river the previous October. It was lower and closer to the river, but large rocks prevented campers from driving down to the water. I picked a spot that looked level and backed in.

I walked around a bit with my girls for a potty break. I took photos of the late afternoon sun on the river and the flowers that grew along it. It was a really pretty afternoon with perfect weather and very little smoke from the area fires.

Riverside Chair River View
Left: I put a chair where I could sit overlooking the river, but actually spent very little time in it. Right: The view from that chair.

Purple Flowers Yellow Flowers
Some of the flowers blooming along the river.

Grilling Up Sausages
One of those big rocks came in handy as a table for my propane grill.

Then we went back to camp and I set up my grill on one of the big rocks that prevented people from driving down to the river. I fed the girls and started making my dinner: some olive-oil sautéed broccoli, scallions, garlic, and pan gnocchi. I cooked up some sausages on the grill and cut them into my sauté. A little salt and it was perfect, with a portion leftover for lunch the next day.

Unfortunately, as night fell, my neighbors across the river decided to fire up their generator. It was so loud, I could hear it over the rushing of the river. What is it with people? What the hell are they running that they can’t run on batteries? But since it was getting cool at that elevation — around 4,000 feet — we went in for the night anyway. Once the windows were closed, I didn’t hear anything.

Morning

I slept reasonably well, although it did get almost cold enough during the night to consider either throwing on another blanket or turning on the heat. I did neither.

By 4 AM, I was wide awake. I got out of bed, pulled on a pair of sweat pants, and turned on the heat. Then I took care of the most important chore: I made coffee.

My pups slept.

I took the opportunity to finish writing the blog post I’d begun the night before, inserting all the photos where they needed to go. Then I took a few minutes to use GaiaGPS, which already had maps of the area loaded, to check out Union Falls. It looked like a nice, easy hike there.

When it got light out, the girls woke up and started playing on the bed. I threw on my slippers and a flannel shirt and took them out for a walk around the campsite. Once they’d done their business, I brought them back inside for breakfast. I made my breakfast, too: a bran cereal and homemade granola mix with blueberries I’d picked over the weekend and sliced bananas. Yum.

After a while, the girls started getting antsy. I let them out while I stowed the grill and my camp chair. Across the river, the other site was quiet. When sunlight hit the camper, it was time to go.

Camper at American River
I took this picture of our campsite right before we left in the morning.

Union Falls Hike

I had never heard of Union Falls and if it hadn’t been detailed on GaiaGPS, I never would have stopped there. But after leaving camp, we backtracked about 1/3 mile and turned into the trailhead parking lot. There was a truck already parked there, but no one in sight.

I didn’t see any “No Camping” signs there, but I’m not sure I would have liked camping there. It was pretty close to the road and, because it’s a place with a sign, there’s always the chance of someone else pulling in in the middle of the night. Still, it had a bathroom and picnic tables and some signage that explained how to see the falls.

According to the sign, there was a 1/4 mile trail that took you over a log bridge and then to the bottom of the falls. But a fork in the trail would take you to the top of the falls. I decided to see what we’d see so we set off down the trail.

Log Bridge
I was very glad to see that the log bridge was suitably wide and had a handrail.

The trail was wide and easy as it wound through forest, climbing slightly, with the sound of a rushing creek off to the right. We reached the log bridge in no time and crossed without much problem; Rosie was just slightly hesitant, but I coaxed her across. From there, the trail seemed to split and, of course, I couldn’t remember exactly what the sign I had read 10 minutes before said. I took the fork that climbed.

Teasing Glimpse of Waterfall
This is not the view I was hiking for.

Soon, we were on a series of switchbacks, climbing up the side of a narrow canyon. Occasionally, there were tantalizing glimpses of a tall waterfall rushing with water. The air was full of the sound.

We got level with the top of the falls but there was no good vantage point and the trail kept climbing. So we kept climbing, too. Finally, there looked like a good vantage point and I stopped for a look. It was a crappy view of the top of the falls.

I knew the trail went on to another falls quite a bit up the canyon, but I’d had enough climbing. We reversed our course and headed back.

This time, I took a right on one of the trails that led off toward the falls, figuring it would loop back to the one I’d passed up right after the log bridge. As I eased down one sandy slope after another, all I could think about was how glad I was that I didn’t have to come back that way. Then the trail ended suddenly at the bottom of the falls with no trail along the creek to get back. That’s when I knew I’d be climbing back up the way I’d come.

Union Falls
This was the view I was hiking for.

I took some time down there to look at the falls. It was a great vantage point — very close — and I bet it would be a real treat on a hot summer day to get into the mist and cool down. The falls were in sunlight; I had timed it just right. I took a few photos and even a video.

After a bit of a rest, we headed back up. It seemed shorter on the way back. Once back on the main trail, we continued down to the log bridge and then the trailhead. The truck that had been there was gone. We’d walked a total of 1.24 miles. You can see my track and the photos I took on the GaiaGPS website.

Rosie at Tree
Look carefully and you should be able to see Rosie on Squirrel Patrol.

We spent a few minutes exploring the picnic area and crossing another bridge there to see what was on the other side. A sign told me that the Pleasant Valley Trail, #999, ran through there. Lily and Rosie interrupted a squirrel snacking on a pine cone on a stump and spent five minutes at the base of a tree waiting for it to come down.

Back at the camper, we went inside for water. I gathered together the trash in my trash can and dropped into into the bin beside the rest rooms. Then we climbed back into the truck and continued our travels.

Lily and Rosie in the Truck
Lily and Rosie loaded up and ready to go.

Western Washington Wander 2020: Red Top Lookout

I spend the first night of my vacation close to home — sort of.

After being stuck at home for three full months on cherry drying standby duty, and then wasting two weeks more at home catching up on the things I should have been doing while I was stuck there, I finally loaded up my truck camper (T2) and hit the road on my late summer vacation.

First, a Look Back

The late summer/early autumn vacation has been a sort of tradition with me for the last bunch of years:

In winding back through time, I’m surprised at how much ground I covered every year. And, of course, none of this includes my winter travels or occasional springtime trips. I may not travel far and wide, but I travel often.

Traveling with a Turtleback

Truck campers may be small, but they’re the perfect size for one person and one or two small dogs. (I would not want to be stuck in a truck camper with a whiney adult — or child, for that matter.)

In this 3,200 pound box that sits inside my very large pickup truck’s full-sized bed, I have a queen sized bed, television (with built-in DVD player), three burner stove, oven, microwave, two-basin sink with 30 gallons of fresh water storage, refrigerator, freezer, dinette, and plenty of storage for clothes, food, and household items. The bathroom may be tiny and it may double as a shower stall, but it has standard camper toilet and little sink with 30 gallons each of black (toilet) and gray (sink/shower) water. There’s air conditioning, heat, and a water heater. Most everything runs on propane or battery power; there are two 5-gallon propane tanks and 200 watts of solar power on the roof to keep the batteries charged. When I’m not plugged into A/C power, the only things I can’t use are the air conditioning and the microwave. In the winter, I travel with a generator in case I can’t get enough solar power into my batteries and need to top them off. It’s all the comforts of home in a relatively small package.

But the real beauty of camping in a truck camper is that I can take it almost anywhere I can take my truck. And since my truck is a Ford F350 SuperDuty Diesel with 4WD, I can drive it almost anywhere. I can also park it almost anywhere — downtown in tourist town, at a hiking trailhead, or in one of the notoriously small Trader Joe’s parking lots.

This is great for the kind of road trip traveling I do. If I’m driving along and see a sign for a waterfall or scenic view or historic windmill or — well, you get the idea — I want to be able to follow the sign without having to worry about whether I can park my rig — or even turn around — once I get there. You don’t realize how important this is until you’ve dragged a 36-foot fifth wheel trailer between Arizona, Washington, and California a few times and have to pass up stops along the way simply because you know you won’t be able to fit.

The added benefit of my rig’s setup is its off-the-grid capabilities. That’s super important to me because I don’t like camping in campgrounds.

Red Top

On the first night of my trip, I put my rig to the test (again) with a drive up to the Red Top trailhead.

Red Top is a peak along the Teanaway Ridge near Cle Elem. It’s famous among local rock hounds for the agate beds nearby. To others, it’s interesting for the historic fire tower atop the rocky peak. There are numerous hiking trails in the area and its high elevation (5500 feet or so) means it’s cooler in the summer.

I got it in my head that I wanted to camp up near the trailhead. I’d been up there once before, hiking with a friend. Before that, I’d tried to bring T2 up there but wasn’t sure of the way and wound up turning around and camping just off the road for the night. I figured I’d get there before sunset, settle in with my pups, and hike up to the fire tower in the morning.

I got a late start: 4 PM. No worries. It wasn’t that far. As the crow flies, I bet it’s less than 25 miles from my house. But we weren’t flying so we had to take the long way around: through Wenatchee, west on Route 2, south on 97 at the big Y, over Blewett Pass, and then up the long, winding dirt/gravel road to the trailhead parking lot.

I can’t remember if I asked Google Maps or Apple Maps to direct me to the turn off Route 97, which is easy to miss. It guided me up the road, but told me I had arrived when I definitely had not arrived. The map showed the road ending but the road clearly went on ahead of me. I kept going. And going.

The road got rough around 5 miles in. Nothing the truck couldn’t handle, of course, but I did have to slow down a lot more than I normally would have because I didn’t want to shake up my camper too badly. Finally, we made it to the top. (I tracked the miles on the way back out the next day: 7.5, all uphill.) The parking area was empty. I was pleased to see a toilet building I didn’t remember being there. I found a large, level spot a bit farther on, backed in, and killed the engine.

Truck Camper
T2 parked at our Red Top campsite.

I walked over to the toilet building with my dogs to check out the signs there and see if the building was unlocked. It was. And it was clean. With toilet paper. Whoa.

The signs were the usual signs you find at places like that. History of the fire tower that was still up the trail. Reminders to keep the place clean and not to start fires. A sign letting you know that a missing person who was likely a murder victim might be in the area. (Okay, so that’s not a usual sign.)

The one sign I didn’t see was the one that said “No Camping” which had spoiled so many potential campsites in the past. No sign? I thought it fair to assume that camping was allowed. (And I really do need to write a blog post on my thoughts on real camping vs the kind of camping I do when I’m in transit.)

This is the point at which a person in a campground might be dealing with finding a good spot, getting the camper set up, cursing the idiot two spots down for turning on his generator, or keeping dogs leashed up so as not to break campground rules. I didn’t have to deal with any of this. I could park anywhere that looked like a parking spot, there was no one to bother me, and there were no rules (other than common sense rules that really didn’t need to be posted anywhere). And it was dead quiet; the only sound was the wind in the trees. Even the birds had already settled down for the night.

Smoky Sunset
A smoky sunset through the trees.

I saw the sun set between the trees not long after we arrived. I fed my pups, made dinner and fed myself, and then went out with my pups so we could all do our business without me having to add to the camper’s blackwater tank. Then, as it was getting dark, we climbed back into T2 and settled down for the evening. I spent some time reading and doing crossword puzzles before falling asleep.

I woke up in the middle of the night. Nothing woke me — I just woke. I seldom sleep straight through on any night. I spent some more time reading, then turned to my favorite sleep aid: a Bob Ross video on YouTube. Apparently, 1-2 bars of LTE was enough to get Internet access.

The Hike

Sleeping Dogs
Lily and Rosie asleep together in their bed. It was chilly enough that morning to turn on the heat.

It was light when I woke up, but it was that weird light you get when the sun shines though smoke. There were fires all over Washington — none of which were near me — and the whole state had varying amounts of smoke in the air. There was definitely more smoke that morning than there had been the night before, but as the day progressed, the smoke seemed to settle, leaving the sky at our altitude much clearer.

Smoky Valleys
Here’s the view that morning looking east. The valleys were completely socked in with smoke.

My girls and I took another pee trip, then went back inside for breakfast. I had some veggies from my garden sautéed with two tiny eggs from my young chickens, who have just begun to lay. I played around with GaiaGPS, the hiking app I’ve been using for years, and managed to calculate the length of the hike I planned. While I did all this, a truck came into the parking area, drove past us, and parked a bit farther on. That got Rosie barking. I don’t know where the driver went — or even if he left the truck — but he was gone 30 minutes later, leaving the place to us again.

Red Top Lookout
Red Top Lookout Tower, from near the trailhead. The hike looks a lot harder than it is.

We hiked up to the fire tower, making plenty of stops along the way. I’ve never been good at hiking uphill and age hasn’t made me any better. There were also things to see along the way, including great views of Mt Rainier rising out of the smoky valley and the fire tower perched almost impossibly on the rocks. The trail itself was a pleasant mix of exposed rocky terrain and rather dense forest. We did the half mile in about 30 minutes.

Mt. Rainier Red Top Lookout
Left: A view of Mt. Rainier through the trees shot from along the trail. Right: A closeup view of Red Top Lookout Tower.

The window shutters were up on all four sides of the tower, but the trapdoor at the top of the stairs was padlocked. A sign said the tower was open to visitors from 9 AM to 6 PM daily. It was 8:45, but I seriously doubted anyone would show up within the next 15 minutes to open it for me. The wind was wicked up there and although it wasn’t cold, it wasn’t pleasant, either.

Return Trail
The return trail was pretty level after the initial drop via switchbacks. For part of the distance, it clung to the side of a steep hill.

We hung around for a little while, then continued on the trail past the tower. It soon entered a series of switchbacks that took us down the other side of the peak and into forest. Eventually, it leveled out at a crossroads. A left turn would take us to the agate beds about a half mile away. A right turn would take us along the side of the peak, back to the trailhead. We turned right.

My pups — who were not on a leash — were very well behaved on the hike. They stayed very close to me as we walked — sometimes ahead of me and sometimes right behind me on the narrow trail. They seemed to be having fun. They’re nearly a year old now — I think their birthday is October 1 — and are acting more like dogs than puppies most of the time. It’s a real pleasure to hike with them.

Hike Map
Here’s the track from our hike. The markers are places where I took photos. You can see them all on the GaiaGPS website.

Back in the trailhead parking lot, a minivan was parked near the toilet building. A woman sat in it. I asked if she’d come to open the tower and she said no. Her companion emerged from the toilet building and we all chatted for a while while my dogs played with theirs. They were tent camping in the campground not far from the turn to come up the mountain. They commented on having to listen to the road. (I can’t even imagine.🙄) They’d come up to look for geodes. I had my doubts about whether they’d find any, but I did fill them in on the fire tower and trails and where the agate beds could be found. We went back inside T2, where I fiddled around with my iPad for a while. It took them 45 minutes to leave their car and start the hike.

Onward

We left a while later.

Another great thing about a truck camper is that there’s not much to break down for moving before you go. In the past, I’ve had a hybrid trailer with hard sides and tent-like beds — what a pain in the butt to set up and later stow! (What was I thinking?) Even my big fifth wheel was a chore to prepare for moving with furniture to stow and slides to close up. In the truck camper, it’s a matter of making sure the table and countertops are free of loose objects and all cabinets, windows, and vents are closed. Put up the back step and away I go.

I should mention here that it isn’t always that quick and easy. When I park for a month along the Colorado River in December, I take the camper off the truck so I can drive the truck without moving the camper. It’s easy enough to do; the four legs are motorized and controlled with a hand-held remote. Unfasten the four straps holding the camper onto the truck, lower the legs to raise the camper, carefully drive away, and then lower the camper back down to the ground to reduce stress on its legs. In that case, leaving isn’t quite as quick because I have to reverse the procedure to get the camper back on the truck. It takes roughly as long to do that as it takes my friend Janet to hook up her trailer and its anti-sway bars — maybe a bit longer if the straps need adjusting.

As I drove the 7-1/2 miles back down to pavement, I tried to imagine what the drive would have been like with a trailer in tow. I’d been thinking a lot about replacing T2 with a 17- to 21-foot pull trailer similar to Janet’s. It would be a bit more comfortable during my winter travels. But would I have taken it up to Red Top? Although I felt confident that I could have made the trip with a small trailer behind my truck, that’s only because I already knew what to expect. Not knowing road conditions in advance changed everything. I knew from experience on my back road travels that roads could be washed out, terrifyingly narrow along cliff faces, or simply too rough for lower profile vehicles. Suitable places to turn around with a trailer in tow were rare. Not having driven up to Red Top for a few years, I didn’t know what I’d be facing the day before. Heck, I didn’t even know for sure that I could camp there. I suspect I never would have tried if I had a trailer instead of T2.

And that brings me back to the reason I bought a truck camper in the first place: easy camping comfort with complete flexibility. (See “Traveling with a Turtleback” above.)

The drive to pavement took 50 minutes — for just 7-1/2 miles! — a fact that surprised me when I checked the timer. Was it worth it? As I pulled onto busy route 97, a main thoroughfare through Blewett Pass for cars and trucks, and glimpsed parked campers in the Mineral Springs Campground right off the road, I knew that it was.

And I started wondering whether that couple and their dog would be moving their campsite up to the space I had vacated later that afternoon.

Pups in a Helicopter

A FlyingMAir YouTube channel “extra” featuring 7-month-old Lily & Rosie.

Here’s a little extra video featuring my two seven-month-old puppies, Rosie and Lily. They flew with me on a long cross country flight from Malaga, WA to McMinnville, OR and we made a precautionary landing due to weather at this minuscule airport in Woodland, WA. I shut down the helicopter and left them to take a pee; they realize they’re alone and start getting worried about it before they settle down. Happy ending, of course. This was their second time in a helicopter.

You can see all of the videos for this flight here:
Part 1: https://youtu.be/pgKDciGP4eA
Part 2: https://youtu.be/CmupuFDXa4Q
Part 3: https://youtu.be/vyveMEm_MhQ
Pups in a Helicopter: https://youtu.be/eEVq9sRlJK8 (this video)
Part 4: https://youtu.be/3KXR_D3SliA
Part 5: https://youtu.be/eghRyzhPigg