Snowbirding 2019: Bumming It In Phoenix and Apache Junction

I camp out at a friend’s house and, later, in a mudders’ playground.

Posts in this series:
The Long Drive
At the Backwaters Campsite
In Mesa and Gilbert
A Quick Stop in Wickenburg and Forepaugh
Off Plomosa Road
• Camping at the Big RV Show
• A Trip to Organ Pipe with the WINs
The Tucson Gem & Mineral Shows
Wickenburg Gold Rush Days
• Constellation Park Interlude
• White Tank Mountain Park
Bumming It in Phoenix and Apache Junction
A Dose of Civilization
Return to the Backwaters

At this point, you may have noticed that I’m not keeping my trip account up to date as well as I should. In fact, I’m about a month behind in my travels. But I’ve updated the list of posts to include the ones that I should have (but haven’t yet) written about. With luck, I’ll get around to them.

But for now, I figure it’s best to resume with my most recent trip segment: the six days I spent after leaving White Tanks Regional Park on Febrary 18.

One Thing Leads to Another

Did you ever have one of those days when you set out to do a simple task or two and other things start falling apart and need immediate attention? That was my Monday, President’s Day, after leaving the park.

There were two things that required attention that day:

  • One of the four brackets installed on my truck that my truck camper ties down to was loose. Given that I very often drive on rough roads, I figured it would be a good idea if all four of those brackets were as sturdy as they should be.
  • I needed propane. I was down to half a bottle. My rig carries two 5-gallon bottles and I like to have at least one of them full or nearly full at all times.

The first task was supposed to be the toughest. I got a recommendation from my friend Janet to try a place called State Trailer in Peoria, which was only about 10 miles from the park. I called first and the guy I spoke to, Scotty, told me they could look at it that afternoon.

I left the park at around 11:30 AM so I had time. I took Olive Avenue almost all the way. Along the way, I stopped for groceries at a Safeway with the nicest looking olive bar (coincidence?) I’d ever seen. So I loaded up on a few types of olives. I put my groceries away in the parking lot and continued on my way.

I got to State Trailer around 1 PM. I went in and met Scotty. He came out to take a quick look, agreed that it was loose, and directed me to park near one of their service bays. He then got another service guy out of the back of a truck he was working on and the two of them looked at the problem. It took a little research back inside before Scotty realized that there was supposed to be a sleeve inside the bracket. He had the other guy take the bracket apart and they found the sleeve where it had slipped inside where it didn’t belong. They got it put where it was supposed to go, put everything back together, and it was as good as new.

Meanwhile, I was shopping. State Trailer isn’t just a repair place. It also stocks and sells all kinds of RV parts and equipment. It has, by far, the best selection of RV gear I’ve ever seen. And that’s saying a lot. I’ve been in more RV shops than I can count. Camping World, which I always thought was pretty good, is a bad joke compared to this place. Seriously: if you’re in the Phoenix area and need anything for an RV, go here first. It will definitely save you time.

I wound up buying two things I need for my clamping setup back home: a propane powered instant hot water shower and a new two-burner propane stove. Best of all, they picked out the exact propane adapters and hoses I’d need to rig both devices up to one tank. I also bough RV toilet chemical, toilet paper, and chocks, all of which I needed for my current trip.

Good thing I bought that cargo trailer back in January. I had more crap to load into it. But for now, I just tossed it into the back seat of the truck.

State Trailer also sold propane so I figured I’d tank up there. I moved my rig around to the filling station and offloaded the empty tank. Then I decided I’d likely need my step to load it back in. The step was inside the trailer. I got the key and went to open the side door’s padlock.

The key wouldn’t work.

I jiggled and fiddled with it. I tried the other key. Crap. I’d known deep down inside that buying a “Brinks” brand lock in a Walmart would come back to haunt me.

I tried the key in the lock on the back door, which was keyed alike. That one opened. I got the step.

By that time, the propane guy was waiting for me. “Can’t fill it,” he said. “It’s expired.”

He showed me the manufacture date: April 2006. The tanks were only good for 12 years. For the past eight months, people had been illegally filling the tanks and he wasn’t going to do it, too.

I asked him where I could get it recertified. He handed me a slip of paper with the name, address, and phone number of a Ferrel Gas location closer to Phoenix. I tossed the empty tank into the back seat of the truck, locked the step back in the trailer, and got into the truck. I knew enough to call ahead; the place did certify tanks and would be open for another 90 minutes. I asked Google Maps to guide me there and got on my way.

Of course, I had to take Grand Avenue all the way down there. That means traffic lights. The 8-mile drive took about 30 minutes.

I pulled in and stopped by the filling station. There wasn’t much other room to park. I went inside the office and told the woman at the desk what I needed. A while later, I was handing the two tanks to a guy for him to do the certification.

While I waited, I fiddled with that damn lock again. No joy. I’d need it removed and replaced. I wasn’t in the mood to screw around with it. What if the other one decided to break, too?

The guy finished the certification process and filled the tanks. I installed one and he lifted the other into place. I connected them, opened their valves, and secured them. I put the step back into the trailer and locked it up. Then I went inside to pay.

The total was a little more than nine dollars.

“How much was the certification?” I asked the woman as I gave her a credit card. (I charge everything related to my business travel and this was business travel.)

“Normally, it’s $10 per tank, but it’s free if you fill the tank.”

That seemed like a pretty good deal to me.

Back in the truck, I asked Google Maps where the nearest locksmith was. There was one only a few miles away, almost due south. I called and explained my problem. He said he could help, so I started off.

The locksmith shop, which sold locks and safes, was in a neighborhood that made locksmithing a good business. They had a parking lot and, for a moment, I hesitated, not sure if I’d be able to turn around once I got in it. I envisioned a way and pulled in, then started backing up to point the truck back out toward the street.

The guy who’d answered the phone met me at the door. I showed him the key, praying it wouldn’t suddenly work and make me look like an idiot. It didn’t. He tried the key. He jiggled the key. No joy.

We went in. He sent someone else out to work on it. I assumed they’d cut it off — after all, that’s what the locksmith had done to get the lock off my hangar after my idiot wasband had changed the lock in a feeble attempt to lock me out.

Inside, the locksmith set me up with a pair of commercial Master brand locks that were keyed alike. I didn’t care if the other Brinks lock worked. I wanted it off the trailer.

The other guy came back in with the lock in his hand. It was in one piece. “How’d you get it off?” I asked.

“I picked it,” he replied.

Great.

They didn’t charge me to get the lock off. I paid for the new locks, went outside and installed them both on the trailer, and climbed back into the truck.

The Refrigerator

By this time, it was about 4 PM. I wanted to go to Cabellas and then figured I’d spend the night camped out in the parking lot for the casino near there. They were both off route 101, which was west of me. Traffic on I-10 westbound was just starting to get thick. I figured I’d parallel it on surface streets for a few miles before getting on I-10, taking it to the Loop 101, and heading north.

In the meantime, my friend Cheryl had called while I was in the locksmith shop. She and I were supposed to have lunch the next day. She’d also left a text message to call her as soon as I could. I called her back and spoke to her on speakerphone as I drove.

She wanted my advice about a refrigerator. She had a super fancy fridge in her kitchen with four separate compartments. Any of them could be configured as either refrigerator or freezer. She currently had one freezer and three refrigerator compartments. But it wasn’t enough. She wanted some more food storage space in her garage. Should she get a refrigerator with a freezer that she’d seen on Facebook Marketplace or a freezer she’d seen on Craig’s List?

She went back and forth between all the options until my head was spinning. Finally, I told her that the fridge she’d seen on Facebook seemed like the best solution.

That’s when she asked me where I was and where I was going and if I could go pick it up for her.

It took me a moment to comprehend that she was asking me to pick up a refrigerator for her. Not a quart of milk or a vacuum cleaner in a repair shop. A refrigerator.

I told her I was heading west on whatever road I was on and that I was going to Cabellas on the Loop 101. She told me that was very close to where Salvador, who owned the fridge, lived, which was off I-17. I blinked. Cabellas on Loop 101 was nowhere near I-17. There was miles of surface streets between them with many traffic lights. It would take at least 45 minutes to get from one to the other in rush hour traffic. When I tried to explain that to her, she sounded doubtful.

“I’ve been out that way and it’s very close,” she said.

I didn’t want to argue with Cheryl. She’s a very sweet lady. She and her husband Mike were incredibly supportive to me during my extremely ugly and (in hindsight) rather ridiculous divorce battle. So I told her to text me Salvador’s address, just to see where it really was. We hung up.

I was heading north toward I-10 when I stopped at a light and looked at his address on Apple Maps. I realized that if I got on I-10 heading eastbound I could hop on I-17 and be at his place in 20 minutes. The light turned green, I drifted into the right lane and got on the freeway heading east. I called Cheryl. “Tell Salvador I’ll be there in 20 minutes.”

“Okay,” she said and hung up.

As I drove, I wondered where the hell I was going to put a refrigerator. The trailer was pretty damn full. Maybe if I moved the generator and barbecue grill? But would it even fit though the side door? And wasn’t it a good thing I’d gotten that lock replaced?

Salvador lived in a quiet but rather run down neighborhood. I parked along the curb and went to his door. I rang the bell. Twice. Finally, the door opened a crack and a man’s eye appeared.

“I’m looking for Salvador,” I said.

He replied in Spanish. Of course. He said something about a dog — likely the one I could hear barking in the background. Then he opened the door wider. He was huge and not in a football player kind of way. More like in a “Biggest Loser” kind of way. A teenage girl came into view. And then a woman. They spoke English. After a moment, they directed me to go around to the back yard.

The fence, which was as tall as me, was locked. After a moment, someone on the other side opened the padlock. (It obviously wasn’t a Walmart Brinks.) All three of them were there. There was a nice pool and a relatively nice outdoor kitchen. They led me to the back patio where a small apartment-sized refrigerator stood. It was in good condition and clean inside. I told them I needed to make room in the trailer and would be right back.

Back at the trailer, I went in through the side door and moved the grill and generator to the back of the trailer. Then I went into my camper to fetch $125. Then I went back into the yard.

Refrigerator in Trailer
Here’s the refrigerator, jammed into an empty spot beside the side door. The E-track is mounted low on that side of the trailer so I kept worrying about the fridge falling over as I drove.

While I was gone, they’d fetched a hand truck. I’d brought a saddle blanket from the truck to prevent it from being scratched. I handed over the money and the three of us got the refrigerator onto the hand truck and out to the street. We worked together to get it in through the trailer’s side door and I pushed it into place. I fastened it to the E-Track I’d installed using an extra ratchet tie-down. I used a long bungee cord to keep the freezer door shut. Then we all said goodbye and I climbed back into the truck.

I asked Google Maps to take me to Cheryl’s house. It gave me the wrong directions. (You must approach Cheryl’s house from the east no matter how Google directs you.) Fortunately, I knew how to make the wrong directions right and navigated into her driveway.

I had to ring the bell twice to get her to the door. Then she was all excited about seeing me and Penny and getting the refrigerator. She called a neighbor to help get it out of the trailer and he arrived quickly. A while later, it was in its new home.

I moved my rig to a spot along a drive in their side yard that I thought was level enough for a one night stay. Then I grabbed an open bottle of wine, those olives, and Penny’s leash and went with Penny into the house.

At the Airpark

Cheryl and Mike live at an airpark. If you’re not familiar with the term, its a community built on a private runway. Mike flies for the airlines and has a helicopter services business. He also owns two Bonanzas — although I’m not sure why anyone needs two of the same plane, even if they do have different engines. They have an amazing custom home that overlooks the runway and the city of Phoenix to the north.

Mike was in Los Angeles on helicopter business. Cheryl and I ate leftover spaghetti and meatballs, salad, olives, and wine. We chatted for a long while, getting up to date on what we’d been up to since we’d last seen each other. The evening wore on.

Finally, I took my leave, going back to the camper with Penny. The night was cool and clear. As we walked through the yard, I could see planes on final approach to Sky Harbor.

I had a good night’s sleep in the camper. Although Cheryl and Mike have a guest house that I’ve stayed at in the past, it didn’t seem worth messing the place up for just one night. I was comfortable enough in the camper.

Kitty
Kitty, lounging in the early morning sun.

Cheryl texted me in the morning, inviting me for coffee. I went over without Penny. Cheryl has a cat and was worried about it having a problem with Penny; the previous evening, she’d locked it in the laundry room.

She offered up a shower and because I’m no idiot and my camper’s shower is so disappointing, I said yes. A while later, she was punching buttons on their computerized shower stall, setting me up with her program: two shower heads, 105°F water. “Unless you prefer a steam shower,” she said.

I assured her that water was fine. It was actually better than fine. I took a long 105°F shower and enjoyed every minute of it.

Our plans for lunch were up in the air. Mike was coming back and would be home by 2 or 3, depending on what plane he caught. We finally decided to run some errands — Target, Ikea, Total Wine — first and then meet Mike at a Chinese buffet for an early dinner. I would, of course, spend another night.

We did all that and I was well-behaved, buying only a few small things at Target and Ikea. Total Wine, however, was my stop. I bought a few bottles of wine and some Mescal and Rakia for my bar at home. (Alcohol is heavily taxed in Washington state.)

It was good seeing Mike, who I hadn’t seen in about two years. The restaurant’s buffet was actually good and we all ate more than we should have.

Back at the house, we went our separate ways. I know Cheryl was tired and figured Mike would be, too, after traveling. But I was only in my camper for a short while when Mike texted. “Come on down to the hangar,” he said.

So Penny and I went down. We found him in there flying a small DJI drone knockoff. That’s when I saw the two Bonanzas and he explained that they had different engines so they really weren’t the same plane. (Okay.) He had one of his Hillers tucked against the far wall. Believe it or not, he’s still trying to get me to buy one.

Hangar Pano
Here’s a pano shot of the inside of Mike’s hangar. The last time I was there, he had two different planes in there.

We chatted while he tried hard to fix the network problem he was having with his hangar’s internet connection. Once that was solved, he was done. We left the hangar and he locked it up while Penny and I went back to the camper.

Cheryl texted a while later, asking me to come over. So, once again, I ventured out to the house, this time without Penny. She’d taken a nap and was embarrassed about it. We chatted while Mike practiced bagpipes with a silent device he listened to with earphones. The cat sat on my lap.

They invited me to join them on a trip to Apache Junction to see a motorhome they planned to buy. They were leaving at 6:30 AM the next morning. I was noncommittal. I had a feeling it would take a long time and I really did need to leave.

Sure enough, they texted me at 6:30 Wednesday morning, telling me they were on their way. They’d left the casita open if I wanted to use it to take a shower.

I made coffee and brought my laptop over to the casita to charge the battery. Then Penny and I went for a 2-1/2 mile walk around the neighborhood. It was warm and sunny and I was stripped down to my tee-shirt before we were done. Properly sweated up, I headed for the shower. I think I took an even longer shower that day and washed my hair, knowing it might be my last good shower for a while.

I spent the next hour or so prepping the camper for the next leg of my journey and researching where my next stop might be. I had options, but the easy one might inconvenience some friends and I really didn’t want to do that. I knew I had three stops to make before I settled in for the night somewhere. I also knew that I had to be settled in before nightfall in a spot I could stay until Saturday morning. Arizona was expecting a major winter storm to hit that night and there was heavy rain in the forecast for Thursday and Friday. I didn’t want to be wandering around in the rain, wondering where I was going to spend the night. So I had to leave Cheryl and Mike’s place by 3 PM.

Cheryl got back at around 2:30. She apologized for not hanging around but told me she needed a nap since she would be entertaining other friends that night. I understood. Although I was disappointed that I wouldn’t see the new motorhome — Mike was still out and about with it — I really couldn’t wait. So we said our goodbyes and I headed out.

Errands in Mesa

I had three stops in the Mesa area.

First, I had to stop at Jan and Tiffani’s house, which is technically in Gilbert. They’d received two items in the mail for me and I needed them both. Although Tiffani had invited me to stay with them again, Jan was very sick with a cold and I didn’t want to be a bother. So I stopped there, got the packages from Jan, told him I hoped he’d feel better soon, and ran before he could get me sick.

Next, I had to stop to get a permit from BLM to camp in the Bulldog Canyon area. I’d researched the area and had spoken to the office earlier in the day. The permit was free and it came with the combination to the gate locks that kept unauthorized people out. The ranger suggested two areas for camping but claimed he knew nothing about the terrain and whether it was suitable for my rig.

Finally, I had to stop at Falcon Field Airport to pick up my orchid. I’d left the damn thing at Jan and Tiffani’s house in early January and it had gone into bloom since then. Tiffany had brought it to the office where it was still blooming. I fetched it, said hello and goodbye to other friends there, and got back on the road.

At Bulldog Canyon

I used Google Maps to guide me to one of the gates into the Bulldog Canyon area: the Wolverine Gate. The roads ran through a neighborhood on the northern boundary of Apache Junction, turning to dirt along the way. There was a parking area with a few vehicles in it and the gate.

The gate was wide open.

Weather Forecast
The weather forecast called for a hell of a lot of rain and unusually cold temperatures. Remember — I was only about 25 miles from Phoenix.

I drove in. My goal was to find a suitable parking spot where I could hunker down during a severe winter storm that was expected to begin that night. It needed to be relatively level and, for sanity’s sake, not right near anyone likely to run a generator all hours of the day and night. Because I was towing, it also needed to be a space I could either pull through or back into with my rig, which was about 40 feet long in total length.

I drove for about a mile on the winding road as it climbed into the hills. Every single appropriate campsite was occupied. Lots of people were also driving around in off-road vehicles — mostly side by side ATVs. I stopped in a spot that might have been okay and consulted the satellite view to see what was farther up the road. Nothing — not even a place to make a U-turn. I decided to try the next gate so I turned around and drove back out.

By that time the gate was closed. There was an off-road vehicle in front of me and the driver got out to open the gate. We both drove through and he pulled over to close it behind me.

Relying on the Google Maps satellite image, I found the next gate and navigated towards it. This was the A1-Pit entrance. By this time, it was getting late and sunset was less than an hour away. I resolved to settle in the very first spot I found.

The road to the gate was in terrible condition, with deep potholes and huge winding ruts of erosion. My camper makes my truck very top heavy so I drove slowly and carefully, working hard to keep my rig as level as possible. Along the way, I passed a few other forlorn looking campsites that looked as if they’d been there for months, if not years. One had a torn awning; another had a lot of trash in bags outside. Squatters. I was starting to regret not saying with Jan and Tiffani.

I was about 4/10 of a mile from the gate (per Google Maps) when I saw a big clearing to my right. There were signs that the area got very muddy in rain — tire tracks criss-crossed the whole area. But the north east edge looked higher with a fine gravel instead of dirt. It also looked as if it might be somewhat level. I decided to camp there.

For this particular campsite, I had no need to unhook the trailer or offload the camper. Instead, I disconnected the camper tie-downs and dropped its two back legs to lift the back end off my truck. This did two things: it leveled the camper (which was parked facing up a little slope) and it stabilized the whole setup (which was prone to rocking with my movement inside and/or the wind). That done, I fetched the generator out of the trailer and set it up under the back end of the camper, where it would be (mostly) out of the rain. I knew that if it was completely cloudy, my solar panels would not recharge my batteries and I certainly didn’t want to set up the generator in the rain. That done, I set up the grill and grilled up a piece of salmon I’d defrosted for dinner. Then Penny and I went in for the evening, which was already getting cold.

Superstition Sunset
I had a clear view of Superstition Mountain from the back of my camper. At sunset the light got very good.

The rain started at about 3 AM. I know the time because I heard the rain on the camper’s roof. My summer work makes me very sensitive to the sound of rain and it always wakes me now.

The rain came and went. I got out of bed at around 6 AM and made coffee. Penny went out between rain squalls. Was this the big storm they’d been forecasting? If so, I wasn’t impressed.

Radar Rain
Here’s the radar picture at 1:45 PM on Thursday.

I got impressed later, just after noon, when the rain started up again and didn’t stop. It rained nonstop for the remainder of the day and into the night. It was still raining when I went to bed and, fortunately, the steadiness of it didn’t wake me up. It was still raining in the morning when I woke up. In fact, it didn’t stop raining until 8 AM or 9 AM — and even then it was just a pause.

Meanwhile, Penny and I hunkered down in the camper. It was difficult getting her out for a pee in the rain before we turned in for the night, but she finally went. I watched her from the window as she tried to find the perfect spot for her business while being pelted with rain drops. At one point, it looked as if she thought, “Oh, fuck it,” and just went where she was before running back to the door.

Although my solar panels did pick up some power during the day, they could not keep up with the power use from my forced hot air propane heater. I had decided early on in this trip that I was not going to be uncomfortable, so I ran the heat as much as I needed to stay comfortable. Yes, this meant using up propane and wearing down the camper’s batteries. But hell, it wasn’t as if I couldn’t buy more propane or recharge the batteries. My rule-of-thumb target is to have 85% or more of battery power at sunset; when I didn’t have that, I went out and started the generator. I let it run for about two hours, when it ran out of fuel; I had purposely neglected to top it off because I wanted to make sure I had some fuel in reserve in the 2 gallon can I keep in the trailer.

In case you’re wondering what I did in a tiny camper for two full days, I actually had a project to finish that required me to sit still for two days. One of my friends had admired a copper bracelet I made that I wear all the time. She wanted me to make her a three-strand fine silver necklace in the same design. I’d ordered the silver and it had arrived at Jan and Tiffani’s place — that’s one of the packages I picked up. I had all my tools in my camper with me — I’d moved them into cabinets while I was still at Cheryl and Mike’s place so I wouldn’t have to go out into the trailer in the rain. With everything I needed close at hand and nothing better to do with my time, I worked on the necklaces. I even live-Tweeted some of the progress.

Of course, the mudders started arriving around 5 PM on that first rainy day. These were mostly men in pickup trucks with loud engines and big tires. That’s when I realized that I was parked along the edge of their favorite playground. Seeing me there turned away a few of them — they found other places to play farther up the road. But some of the more stubborn ones played nearby anyway, revving their engines, spinning their tires, and fishtailing through the mud. I guess it was fun — for them. Not so good for the road or the vegetation alongside it since they just made the potholes deeper and occasionally ran off the road into the cholla cacti or mesquite and creosote bushes. One young woman, probably trying to show off that she could keep up with the boys, spun around dangerously close to my rig, spraying it with mud. Most of it washed off in the rain over the next 24 hours, but there was enough caught on my window to get into the doorframe when I rolled my window down. That took some effort on my part a few days later to fix.

They came and went throughout the evening and even after dark. By around 9 PM, they were gone, but they returned the next day. That day wasn’t quite as bad since most of them went past me and had their fun elsewhere.

When the rain paused on that second day, I poured the remaining gasoline I had into the generator’s tank. I had a little trouble getting it started, but it did roar to life after about a half-dozen pulls on the cord. (Those Honda generators really rock.) It had been so cold during the night that the heater was running almost non-stop and the batteries were very low. When the clouds cleared, I could see the Superstition Mountains with a heavy dusting of snow.

Superstition Mountains
What a difference two days makes! Superstition Mountain on Friday morning, around 10:30 AM.

Penny
Penny spent a lot of time lounging on the bed during those two days.

Understand that a storm like this is very unusual for the Phoenix area. We got nearly 2 inches of rain (per Weather Underground weather stations in the area) and Phoenix Sky Harbor broke a 24-hour rain record. Phoenix normally gets less than 10 inches of rain a year and it got nearly 20% of that in two days. And the snow — well its very rare indeed to see snow on mountains close to Phoenix, yet the Superstitions, Red Mountain, the McDowells, and Four Peaks were all covered with the stuff. The snow level had come down to less than 3,000 feet. Down in Tucson, they got enough snow to build snowmen in some areas and the police made a hilarious video about it.

The rain continued on and off all Friday afternoon. It was still raining when I went to bed, which had me a bit concerned. I had to leave in the morning before 7 AM and I didn’t like the look of the road. Would I be able to get out without sliding off the road or getting stuck in one of those huge potholes made even bigger by the mudders? I honestly didn’t know.

Superstition Rainbow
Another shot of Superstition Mountain, this time at about 5:25 PM on Friday. You can see the damage done to the road by the mudders over the past two days. And yeah: that’s a rainbow.

The Apache Junction Art Show

I was out of bed making coffee by 5:30 AM the next morning. That gave me 90 minutes to have breakfast, pack up my generator and grill (which were both still out), raise the camper legs, strap down the camper to the truck, and get to downtown Apache Junction, where I was participating in an art show.

The rain had stopped during the night and the sky was clear. Although the sun hadn’t risen before I got under way, I had enough light to work and to see Superstition Mountain with its thick cap of snow. It was bitter cold, though — near freezing — and I did have to put on gloves to adjust the length of the tie-down straps to secure the camper properly. Then it was time to pull out.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned about traveling with a camper or trailer (or both, in this case) is that even though I have a AAA safety net for emergencies, I can save a lot of time and heartache by not having an emergency. So I pulled out slowly, shifted the truck into 4WD as soon as I was out of the sharp turn onto the road, and drove at idle speed back to pavement. Looking back, I saw that I had chosen my campsite well: it was the only spot in the area that didn’t have thick mud.

I was all over the road on the way back to pavement. That was on purpose — not once did I lose control. The road was covered with a fine gravel that seemed to prevent it from turning into that thick, snotty mud that’s so common on Arizona’s dirt roads after the rain. With no sliding to worry about, I could concentrate on avoiding the huge holes and ruts, or at least entering them carefully with all wheels. My tire tracks must have made it seem as if I were a drunk because I took no heed to sticking to one side of the road. I passed two vehicles coming in and each of them gave me right of way. They probably couldn’t believe I’d gone in with my rig in the first place.

Then I was on pavement. The run rose as I drove the five miles into town.

I arrived early enough to stop for fuel before homing in on the place I needed to go for the show. Once there, I handled some last minute paperwork and set up under a covered walkway — although that had been my preference (so I wouldn’t have set up a tent for this one-day show), the complete lack of sun kept my space very cool until well after noon.

It wasn’t a big show, but it did draw a respectable crowd. I was between a quilter who admitted that her price point was too far above the shoppers and a photographer who specialized in photos of wild horses and sold a ton of note cards. My sales got off to a slow start but picked up, making the small event worthwhile for me.

4 PM came and we all packed up. After loading my trailer, I was one of the last to leave.

The Other Bulldog Canyon

I found myself at 5 PM in Apache Junction with no campsite. There was a big event going on with a rodeo and a fair and traffic was crazy. I remembered one of the ranger’s recommendations from Wednesday and decided to try a north entrance to Bulldog Canyon. That (I thought) would put me in a good location for Sunday’s planned trip to Fountain Hills, where my friends Janet and Steve were selling her artwork at a huge art show.

So I headed out of town on Usary Pass Road and turned onto the Bush Highway heading east. All along the way, people were parked alongside the road taking pictures of snow in the mountains. It really was a big deal. Four Peaks looked amazing and I almost pulled over once myself. But I kept going; the last thing in the world that I wanted was to be searching in the dark for a campsite after a long day.

I found the entrance to the park and turned off Bush Highway. The gate was closed and locked but I had the combination and opened it. I think the hardest part was moving the heavy metal bar back into position after I’d driven through.

Beyond the gate was a road with pull-offs that were occupied by RVs — despite the fact that no camping is supposedly allowed within a half mile of the gate. I went past them all. I found a bigger site occupied by three separate rigs that I probably could have pulled into, but just beyond them was a road intersection that was wide enough for me to back into without blocking. Since I planned to be out before 9 AM and it would be dark soon anyway, I squeezed into that. I was very pleased to have a gorgeous view of Four Peaks out my back window.

Four Peaks Sunset
Last light hits Four Peaks, which are uncharacteristically covered with snow. This is the view from my campsite.

I pulled out the grill and grilled up a nice pork tenderloin for dinner. Then I went in with Penny for the night and got started on this blog post.

Coyotes howled in the moonlight very close to us during the night, but I didn’t hear a single other sound. I slept like the dead.

How I Spent My Autumn Vacation, Part 3: In Washington DC

I take in a few amazing museums.

(Continued from Part 2: The Farewell Tour)

Third Trip is the Charm

This was my third trip as a tourist to Washington DC and only my fifth trip ever. (Two trips were for work and I didn’t really get to see anything.) The first trip was when I was around 10 years old; it was a family vacation. I still remember parts of it: visiting the Mint and seeing stacks of uncut money and my dad surrendering his service weapon (he was a cop) at the White House after they searched my little purse. I also remember running into my third grade teacher on a street corner. (How weird is that?). The second visit was many years later with my future wasband and, oddly, I don’t remember much of that at all. This would be my first solo trip and my first opportunity to make all the decisions about where to go and what to do.

The next part of my trip started long before dawn. I was dead asleep when my brother woke me up at 3:30 AM. So was Penny, who reacted by jumping off the bed and barking her little brains out. Jolted to consciousness, I rushed from the bed to grab her so she wouldn’t wake my brother’s neighbors. That’s when I ran full speed into the footboard at the end of his bed. The bruise I got on my right thigh would haunt me for the next few days.

The Train Ride

A while later, he was dropping me and a small carryon bag off at Metropark Station in Iselin, NJ, which isn’t far from where he lives. I was catching a 5:12 AM Amtrak train to Washington DC. He was going to work and Penny would be starting five days as an apartment dweller.

It took me a few minutes to figure out where I had to go. I waited on the wrong side of the track for about three minutes, then got directions to the other platform. I walked down, through a tunnel under the tracks, and was honestly surprised that I didn’t smell urine. (New York has conditioned me to associate that smell with any tunnel near train tracks.) Then I was up on the other side, waiting with a handful of other people.

Iselin Station Before Dawn
Iselin station, before dawn on a Monday morning.

A few commuter trains came through and stopped to pick up some of the folks waiting. Other folks arrived. Then my train pulled up and the doors opened. I stepped inside, then followed another passenger back through three cars to the Business Class car. I chose one of the few seats facing forward with a table between it and a rear-facing seat and settled in.

I’d bought a Business Class ticket because I’d always upgraded my rail fare when traveling by train to Washington. Back in my early freelance days, one of my clients sent me there occasionally. Since I flew on airliners so often for them, I decided that on short trips I’d take the train from Newark. (I lived in Northern New Jersey at the time.) They’d buy the ticket and I’d spend an extra $50 for the “club car” update. That was a very pleasant experience, with La-Z-Boy style swiveling recliners, small tables between seats, and waiter service with food and drinks. I thought that Business Class would be the same thing. I was wrong. (Silly me.) It’s just slightly nicer seating at the back of the train that’s less crowded because fewer people pay for the upgrade.

Speed Info
In just six minutes, the train reached a speed of 124 miles per hour. Eek.

I didn’t realize the train was the Acela until we started zipping southwest bound along the tracks. I thought we were going fast, but I didn’t realize how fast until I fired up one of my hiking apps for the current speed: 124 mph. Shit. It reminded me of riding on the Cyclone roller coaster at Coney Island. It isn’t the drops that scare you — it’s the ricketiness of the old wooden tracks and the constant through that they could break and send you careening off into oblivion at any moment.

Nighttime faded into a dreary day with occasionally rain. After crossing New Jersey in about 15 minutes, we took a more southerly route, making a few stops along the way. More people got into the Business Class car. A man sat in the seat opposite mine and unpacked some work on the table. I killed time by writing in a journal I’d started for the trip. Later, I walked up to the very disappointing dining car and got the free drink I was entitled to — an orange juice; it was too early for alcohol — and a microwaved sausage sandwich. I ate back at my seat.

There was some confusion as we neared Washington DC. Apparently a commuter train had some mechanical issues and we were taking on passengers waiting for that. Announcements made it sound as if the other cars were really jammed with passengers. When a woman tried to sit in our car, the conductor told her she needed a Business Class ticket and made her move.

Then we were at Union Station in Washington DC. Because another train was at the platform in front of us, we had to climb down train stairs and make a very long walk on the extended platform to the station. It was drizzling and rather depressing. It was also only around 8:30 AM — a lot earlier than I would have arrived if had I left my brother’s house at 4:45 to catch a plane.

As I left the station, I noted a Verizon Wireless store that was still closed.

The AirBnB

I’d be staying at an AirBnB studio apartment on 11th Street SE for the next few days. Although the host wanted to charge me an extra $45 to check in early, she did agree that I could store my bag on the floor in the “living room” — which was the only room — when I arrived in town. So I caught a shared Lyft — which is really so much cheaper than Uber — and headed over there right from the station.

Row House
The house I stayed in in Washington DC during my visit.

The place was on a very nice tree-lined street, one of a row of attached houses with a few steps leading up to the front door. It wasn’t until I took this photo the next morning that a resident of the area told me that the homes were known as Philadelphia Row and had historic significance. (I’ll let you follow that link or Google for yourself to learn more.) All I cared about was stowing my bag so I wouldn’t have to carry it all day. I followed the access instructions, which required me to open two doors with two different key codes, peeked inside only long enough to make sure the place wasn’t a dump — it wasn’t; more on that later — and left my bag on the floor near the door. Then I locked up and headed out.

The Metro

I chose the Metro for transportation. It was supposed to be close to the AirBnB unit I was staying in. “Close,” however, is a relative term that depends on the person doing the walking and the weather she’s walking in. It was drizzling but warm. I’d donned my old motorcycle rain jacket, which fit over the fleece jacket I’d brought along on this trip, and was able to keep dry during the six-block walk. But the jacket had a rubber lining that made me sweat in the warm, humid weather. Ugh.

I descended underground at the Eastern Market Station. After figuring out how to buy a Metro pass and how much to put on it, I headed for the turnstiles. Soon I was on the platform, waiting for any train that would take me to Smithsonian Station.

It turned out to be a quick, pleasant ride. I got off at my station, climbed up to the surface, and blinked in the bright light of the gray day. It was still raining. I got my bearings and walked the rest of the way to my destination.

The Castle

I had decided to start my visit at the Smithsonian Castle, which is the original Smithsonian Institution Building on the Mall. Although it once housed the museum’s treasures, it’s now an information center with Smithsonian offices. What also makes it a good place to start an early visit of the area museums is that it opens at 9 AM; the other museums open at 10. It was still before 10 AM; hard to believe I’d started in New Jersey just a few hours before.

Smithsonian Castle
The Smithsonian Castle is a great place to start any museum trip to Washington DC.

Follow the Links

I could make this blog post about 20 times longer than it already is by providing details about everything I saw, but do you really want to read that? I hope not because I don’t have the time to write it. Use the links I provided to get information about the highlights of my visit. And then do yourself a favor: schedule your own museum tour in Washington DC one day soon. Bring your kids or grandkids over age 8 if you have some. You won’t regret it.

I spent about an hour there. I spoke to a woman at the information desk, got a brochure that listed all of the Smithsonian museums in the area, got a Metro map, and followed her suggestion to see the permanent exhibit in the West Wing called “The Smithsonian Institution: America’s Treasure Chest.” It included a sampling of items that could be found in the various other Smithsonian Museums. I couldn’t decide which was more impressive: the actual collection or the architecture of the room it was in.

West Wing of Castle
The West Wing of the Smithsonian Castle houses a permanent exhibit of sample items from all Smithsonian Museums.

By the time I was ready to move on, I’d decided on my next two destinations: the National Museum of Natural History and the National Museum of American History, both of which were right across the Mall.

National Museum of Natural History

I visited the National Museum of Natural History first, primarily because it was the first one I came to when I crossed the mall. There was a slight moment of panic when I thought that a group of about 30 school kids would be coming in with me, but they realized, right before they reached security, that they were in the wrong museum and left. Phew.

Inside, the first thing I did was find a locker for my shoulder bag and rain jacket. I was toting around my Nikon with its medium lens and it was heavy. The only reason I brought it on my trip at all was because there was a tiny scratch in my iPhone 7’s camera lens and I wanted to make sure I could get good pictures my trip. But the iPhone photos weren’t that bad and I didn’t want to lug the heavy Nikon around.

Main Hall of Natural History Museum
The Main Hall of the Natural History Museum. There were a lot of interpretive displays related to that big elephant, perhaps to make us feel a little less bad about killing and stuffing a big elephant.

Seeing Museums on my Own Terms

As I hinted in a sidebar near the beginning of this post, I really enjoyed being able to visit museums on my own terms. Not only could I decide which museums to visit, but I could decide which exhibits in each museum I wanted to visit and how much time I wanted to spend at any exhibit I wanted to see. There was no rush to finish up with things I cared about to see other things I didn’t care about. I made incredibly good use of my time and saw just about everything I wanted to see. After this trip, I can’t imagine visiting a museum any other way.

I was primarily interested in seeing the Gems and Minerals exhibit, which had been recommended to me by many friends who know about my interest in gemstones. Known officially as “The Janet Annenberg Hooker Hall of Geology, Gems, and Minerals,” it’s a permanent exhibit on the second floor. The Geology part was extensive and informative — I got a real kick out of seeing a display of columnar basalt just like the cliffs behind my home. Wandering on, there were exhibits about mines and mining and then, finally, the rocks I’d come to see: hundreds of specimens of beautiful gemstones from all over the world. I took numerous photos with my iPhone, sometimes setting it right up against the glass to eliminate glare. I wished they had book or website that cataloged every single one; it would be incredibly useful for identifying the specimens that I come across at rock shows.

Colored Rocks
This display, called “So Many Colors,” arranged rock specimens by color. Every single specimen was identified.

Black Light Rocks
This display shows the features of rocks in regular and then black light. (Yes, that’s my reflection in the back of the display.)

More rocks
More rocks.

I could share all my photos with you, but I won’t. If you like rocks, you really need to see this exhibit.

At the end of the exhibit hall were some famous gems, including the Hope Diamond, which was in its own rotating display with its own extra guard. Although a lot of folks had come to see just that, I really enjoyed the rest of the exhibit, which had taken me well over an hour to walk through.

Afterward, I visited just one other exhibit, and I didn’t stay long: “The Last American Dinosaurs: Discovering a Lost World.” I didn’t stay long, mostly because the place was full of kids on a school field trip — different, younger kids than at the entrance — and I was developing a headache that I realized was likely due to caffeine withdrawal. I hadn’t had any coffee that morning.

Tyrannosaurus
The Tyrannosaurus was just one set of bones on display.

I did stop at the gift shop, where a saw a lot of rocks like the ones I collect for a lot more money than I usually pay. I also saw gemstone jewelry, most of which wasn’t nearly as nice as mine. Then I found my way down to the ground floor where there was food. I bought a small, remade sandwich wrap, a bottle of water, and something that really saved me: an Awake caffeinated chocolate bar. Holy cow. I ate half the bar right after my sandwich and my headache was gone 15 minutes later. Seriously: I need to buy these and take them with me when I travel.

The Museum of American History

It was nearly 1 PM when I left the museum and walked next door, to the The National Museum of American History. I followed the same drill with security and then stowing my stuff in a locker.

This museum is famous for housing Dorothy’s Ruby Slippers (from The Wizard of Oz) and Archie Bunker’s chair (from All in the Family), neither of which I saw. There’s way much more in its three floors. I didn’t really have anything specific I wanted to see, so I started at the bottom at the hall of Transportation and Technology, specifically, the exhibits about transportation by water and land, electricity, power machinery, and money. That alone took over an hour, with lots of stops to really look at the exhibits and the signs that explained them. I took a few pictures, but not many.

Tucker
If you haven’t seen Tucker: The Man and His Dream from 1988, watch it. You’ll get an idea of how ahead of its time this car was.

The American Enterprise exhibit focused on American pioneers in business and industry. It seemed to me that they made a special effort to include as many women and people of color as they could. That’s a good thing — it introduced me to a lot of American businesspeople I’d never heard of.

I skipped the food exhibition and, therefore, missed Julia Child’s kitchen. Oh, well.

I did go to see the Star Spangled Banner, which used to hang behind a protective screen in the main hall. Now it’s in its own room, laid almost flat, behind a pane of glass. I raised my phone to take a picture and the guard said, “No photos!” I assured her my flash was off but she just repeated, “No photos.” I can’t quite understand why I can’t take a photo of this particular relic, especially if my flash it turned off. I’d share a photo from the museum website, but I can’t find one there, either.

I wandered around a handful of other exhibits but, by that time — late afternoon — I was tired. I decided to grab a Lyft to a restaurant near the AirBnB and call it a day.

Ambar

I wound up at Ambar Capital Hill, a Balkan restaurant. I had never had Balkan food and since it was walking distance from the AirBnB, eating there was a no-brainer for me.

I sat at the bar, as I often do when I’m traveling alone. They had a few happy hour specials of small plates and that’s what I went for. Veal soup, bread basket with traditional spreads, drunken mussels, and Balkan Kebab. All excellent. I tried the Sarajevo Old Fashioned (plum rake, bourbon, bitter, and cane syrup) and later tried an apricot rakia. It was an excellent meal and, as usual, I stuffed myself.

I needed that walk back to the AirBnB.

The AirBnB

I made my way though the two locked doors and finally got a chance to really look at the AirBnB unit I was staying it. It was on the ground floor of the row house with two windows facing front. There was another window facing a back yard, but it was blocked by the full-sized refrigerator in the tiny kitchen.

It wasn’t a bad place, but it certainly wasn’t the “five star” accommodations the host kept reminding me it was. Although both front windows had blinds, only one of them had curtains and neither opened. The double (or maybe queen) bed was shoved up against the wall and had no headboard so the pillows kept falling into the space between the window and the bed. I actually made a list of all the things wrong with the place and sent it to the host at the end of my stay, mostly because every single time he/she sent me one of their long, canned messages it reminded me that the place deserved a 5-star review. That really bugged me. I gave them 4 stars but only because of the value for the money. I got what I paid for. All I did there was sleep, wash up, have coffee in the morning, and reheat some leftovers. It was clean enough and convenient enough. But the $95 cleaning fee really irked me when I found the previous guest’s hair in the shower. Ick.

AirBnB
You’re looking at more than half of the room I stayed in. I don’t see Five Stars here, do you? As I told my host in the private part of the review, it has all the charm of a freshman girl’s dorm room. You can see three of the six fake plants; not sure what purpose they served other than to increase tackiness.

My New Phone

In the morning, after coffee, I took another shared Lyft back to Union Station. I was the first customer at the Verizon store.

I wound up buying a new iPhone XS. The smaller screen one. I really liked what I’d seen about the camera. My iPhone 7 was nearly two years old and the camera lens had a tiny scratch. It didn’t make sense to spend $80 to replace the camera in a phone that old.

They had a 55 and older special going that gave me a second phone worth up to $900 for free, including free data, calls, texts, etc. All I had to pay was sales tax (which they didn’t tell me up front). So I also got a red iPhone 8 max. It’s still in its box. I don’t even know its phone number.

They sold me the insurance on both phones but I later canceled it. I figured that if I broke the new iPhone, I’d use the second one as a spare. Free insurance. Whatever.

On my way out of Union Station, I took my first pictures with the new phone. They came out okay.

The National Postal Museum

The National Postal Museum was right across the street from Union Station. I used to be a serious stamp collector. Now I just buy stamps I like and eventually use them. (I’d love to sell my old stamp collection if you know anyone who is interested in first day covers, commemorative blocks, and other mint stamps.) I walked over to the museum to take a look.

Inverted Jennys
Safely displayed behind glass with a light that goes on only when someone is standing right in front of the display. This is one of the most valuable stamps in the world. The history of its release into the world is fascinating.

The museum has a good display of interesting/historic stamps — including a block of four Inverted Jennys behind glass that I was allowed to photograph — as well as larger displays downstairs for the various ways mail is transported. There were planes hanging from the ceiling and an entire mail car from a train.

Postal Museum
The lower level atrium exhibits at the National Postal Museum.

Postal Train Car
Interpretive signs help visitors understand how mail was processed on-the-go inside train cars like this.

I spent a lot more time there than I expected to, really taking in the exhibits and learning a lot about all kinds of things related to the mail. It might sound dull to you, but I found it fascinating. But then again, I’m interested in a lot of weird things.

It was well after noon when I finished up with the Postal Museum. Before leaving, I stopped at the post office inside the building and bought a bunch of really neat stamps to use over the coming year. In the gift shop, I bought a refrigerator magnet of the Inverted Jenny.

Then I set out, on foot, to the next museum on my list.

The Newseum

The Newseum is the only non-Smithsonian Institution museum I visited on my trip to Washington. It was a must-see for me and my only regret is that I arrived there so late in the day.

I also arrived hungry, which is not a good thing. I decided to buy a ticket for the guided tour to get an overview of the museum’s highlights. While I waited for the tour to start, I went into the ground floor cafeteria, which Wolfgang Puck has put his name on, to have lunch. I had a very disappointing meal of fried catfish and sweet potato fries.

There was just me and an older couple on the tour. (I suspected that they were Trump supporters when they challenged the guide’s description of Fake News at a small exhibit dedicated to that topic.) The guide started us on the top floor and we worked our way down. There is a ton to see. The tour gave us some good highlights and insight, but it wasn’t enough for me and I wound up returning the next day to revisit many of the exhibits. My favorites:

  • Today’s Front Pages are the front pages of newspapers from all over the country and world. Not only are they in a long, narrow exhibit on the top floor, but the exhibit is repeated outside every day so you don’t have to pay to see them. (You can actually view 700+ of these online on the Newseum’s website.)
  • Pictures of the Year has award-winning news photography from the past 75 years.
  • News History
    Here’s an example of a document from the News History Gallery.

    News History Gallery shows 300 newspapers (and their predecessors) dating back to the Middle Ages, with interpretive signs that help you understand the significance of each.

  • Broadcast Tower
    The 9/11 Gallery is very moving in an eerie sort of way.

    9/11 Gallery includes the broadcast tower from the top of the World Trade Center, along with front pages from all over the world. It’s a pretty intense display, especially the section that shows the possessions of a journalist who went in with some firefighters and was killed when one of the towers fell.

  • First Amendment Gallery has displays related to the five freedoms of the First Amendment.
  • Internet, TV, and Radio Gallery traces the history of the spread of news information.
  • First Dogs is an exhibit of photos of Presidents with their pets. It was a fun break from the reality of today’s news cycle.
  • The Berlin Wall is a two-story exhibit that the Newseum building was actually constructed around. It includes several panels from the Berlin Wall — more gathered in any single place outside Berlin — and most of a guard tower, as well as many exhibits explaining what the wall was all about and how it curbed the spread of information.

Berlin Wall
Sections of the Berlin Wall on display at the Newseum.

As I mentioned earlier, although I got a glimpse of many of these things during the guided tour, I actually came back the next day for a much better look. In between, I had dinner at the Carving Room, which a friend recommended. (The food wasn’t bad but the service sucked.) I wound up taking half my meal back to the place I was staying. I did a lot of walking that day, but when it came time to go back to the AirBnB, I used Lyft again. The shared ride service was incredibly cheap and a lot more convenient than the Metro.

The next morning, I returned to the Newseum to really focus on the exhibits that I wanted to see. Honestly, if you’re the kind of person who walks through a museum just looking at the exhibits without reading the signs that go with them, you’re missing half (at least) of the experience.

It was a really beautiful day — the first day of my visit with plenty of sun and bright blue skies. I started my visit to the Newseum with a trip up to the outdoor patio on the top floor. From there, I could look up and down Pennsylvania Avenue. I’d revisit that spot later in the day, before leaving to visit my next stop just to take in that view one more time.

Newseum Patio
The view up Pennsylvania Avenue on the Newseum patio.

A Quick Walk through the National Gallery of Art

My next intended destination was the Air and Space Museum, which was on the other side of the National Mall. I had two ways to get there: I could go the long way east on Pennsylvania Avenue to Fourth Street, walk south across the Mall, and then walk west up Jefferson Drive. Or I could cut pretty much straight through the National Gallery of Art and follow the walkway across the mall right to Air and Space. I took the shortcut.

Fountain
This fountain stands in the main entrance hall for the National Gallery of Art.

I really didn’t intend to spend any time looking at art, but the shortcut required me take a bit of a roundabout route through the building. Along the way was the gift shop, which I think I spent 30 minutes touring. I wound up buying a book and getting some ideas for a jewelry design. Then I made my way out to the south exit, stopping briefly to a few photos of the amazing architecture in the building.

The Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum

I’ll admit it: the main reason I came to Washington DC was to see the National Air and Space Museum. The first time I came to Washington, when I was a kid, it might not have even existed. The second time, when I was still a relatively young adult, I had limited interest in aviation. Now, with almost 20 years as a pilot under my belt and some experience with rebuilt or replica antique aircraft, I was very interested in aviation. I had been itching to visit Air and Space for years.

The National Air and Space Museum has two locations. The main location — the one most tourists visit — is the one in Washington DC. That’s the one I’d see that day. The other one is called the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center — named for its benefactor — is in Chantilly, VA. I’d see that the next day.

But first I needed lunch. Always eager to try different ethnic foods, I walked over to the National Museum of the American Indian next door. I’d heard very good things about its cafe. The museum itself looked interesting but I admit that it was not on my list of things to see, mostly because living in Arizona for 15 years, visiting various Native American museums (including the excellent Heard Museum in Phoenix and the National Museum of the American Indian in New York City), and spending an unusual amount of time on the Hopi and Navajo reservations had pretty much overdosed me on Native American culture. But the thought of trying some unusual native food enticed me into the building. The cafe was split into regional areas, each one serving up some native food. I had something from Central America — I can’t remember what — and it was good. Of all the museums I visited, this one definitely had the best food, although it was typical cafeteria style serving.

Next door, at the Air and Space Museum, I went through security and then checked my bag and jacket again and began exploring. I’d been wanting to see a planetarium show for a while and there was a planetarium on the premises. The only show on the schedule that looked interesting, Journey to the Stars, was showing just one more time that day in just a few minutes, so I bought a ticket and got on line. Soon I was seated near the wall in the round planetarium, eager to see that machine in the middle do its magic. I was disappointed. Instead of giving us a true planetarium show, they showed a specially formatted movie on the domed ceiling. It wasn’t terrible, but it wasn’t what I had come for.

I think that set the tone for the rest of my visit. Don’t get me wrong — there were a lot of really great exhibits and displays. The Spirit of St. Louis hung from the ceiling. The real original Wright Flyer sat in its own exhibit room. There was an extremely informative exhibit about time and navigation. The Golden Age of Flight told the story, with plenty of aircraft on display, of the period between the two world wars, when aviation first began to thrive. Pioneers of Flight covered “firsts” for pilots and aircraft. Apollo to the Moon was an extremely informative display about the moon missions.

Main Hall
The Spirit of St. Louis is hanging from the ceiling at the Air and Space Museum in Washington DC — with a lunar lander right below it.

WrightFlyer
A panoramic image of the original Wright Flyer. This is the first aircraft that attained controllable, self-powered flight at Kitty Hawk in 1903.

Pangborn
Herndon and Pangborn could be found on a plaque in one of the galleries. Wenatchee’s local airport is named for Pangborn. Did you know that it had such a place in aviation history? Only they didn’t land at the airport because it didn’t exist yet; they landed at Fancher Field, which is now a housing development called Fancher Heights.

Docked Spacecraft
I loved the lighting in the museum — natural light through huge windows. This is one of the last shots I took during my visit.

I wandered around and took a ton of photos. Along the way, I noticed what I thought was a disproportionately large percentage of displays designed for children. Explanations were over simplified — no, I didn’t use the phrase dumbed down, although it did come to mind — and questions were left unanswered. There was a lot of touch this, push this button, slide this drawer, compare this to something you know kind of stuff. There were entire galleries I didn’t bother going into because they looked as if they were for kids. Not having kids and not really enjoying their company — especially noisy school groups — I stayed clear. But it left me feeling somewhat disappointed. I didn’t know what was missing, but I felt as if the museum could have been a lot better.

747 Nose
I think this is an example of one of the gee whiz dumbed down displays: a 747 nose poking out of a wall. Although I’m sure there was a plaque about it somewhere, I didn’t see it. The plane could not be accessed by visitors. It just hung there.

And then I was done. I’d seen everything that looked interesting to me and was ready to move on.

Scooting to Lincoln

I retrieved my things and stepped outside. It was still a nice day and it was definitely too early to go back to my AirBnB cubbyhole. It was also my last day in Washington DC so I wanted to make it count. I thought a trip up to the Washington Monument might be nice and thought I’d try walking. It wasn’t far — not even a mile — but it was hot out. The humidity, which I’m not used to at all, was killing me. (Not literally, but you know what I mean.)

My GoPed

Back when I lived in Arizona many years ago and had more money than I knew what to do with, I bought myself a a gas powered scooter called a GoPed. The idea was to fold this thing up and take it with me in my helicopter so I’d have ground transportation when I arrived. And that’s what I did — but just once. You see, I took it to Sedona and climbed aboard to ride down from Airport Mesa into town. Along the way — fortunately, near the start of the ride, was a cattle guard. That’s when I learned that a scooters tiny wheels are not compatible with cattle guards. The scooter stopped short but I didn’t. I landed on my face and broke my nose — a fact that I’ve keep pretty much secret for the past 10 years. I’ve done a lot of dumb things in my life, but that was the dumbest. After that, I wasn’t very interested in riding the GoPed. I wound up giving it away to someone in exchange for him removing the surveillance cameras from my hangar before I moved to Washington.

And, in a weird twist of fate, surgery to fix my crooked nose was not necessary because within a year I had another accident: I tripped over the JetA hose at the airport while fueling a Lear jet. When I landed on my face again, the resulting broken nose actually fixed the first break. Truth is stranger than fiction. The way I see it, I was gypped out of the nose job that I’ve always needed.

So when I saw the row of five Skip rental scooters, I stopped for a closer look. I’d been seeing lots of people scooting around Washington DC on these electric vehicles. With just a long stretch of fine gravel “sidewalk” along the side of the mall and a few street crossings, it didn’t seem as if it would be a difficult ride. Why not give it a go?

After struggling a bit to make the app I downloaded work, I was heading west along the south side of the Mall, moving at a good clip. No, I didn’t have a helmet on. Although they say you have to wear one, there wasn’t one available with the scooter. But you can bet your ass that I was keeping a sharp lookout for potholes. (Cattle guards were unlikely.)

Washington Monument
The Washington Monument was deserted that day because it was closed.

The ride was quick and very enjoyable. The breeze cooled me down and the humidity stopped bothering me so much. But I was disappointed when I got to the Washington Monument: it was closed to the public. Apparently, they’re upgrading the elevator and it won’t be open again until spring 2019.

So I kept going. The Lincoln Memorial wasn’t far beyond it and I was having fun. I scooted up there, stopping once to get a shot of the Monument framed by the trees along the path and a fountain I didn’t realize existed between it and the Lincoln Memorial.

Lincoln
Although Republicans like to point out that Lincoln was a republican, I truly believe that today’s Republican Party would horrify and disgust him.

Once I reached the Lincoln Memorial — which was a lot more crowded on that Wednesday afternoon than I expected it to be — I found a place off the path near a bike rack filled with rental bikes to leave the scooter and tapped the appropriate buttons on my phone to “return” it. Then I walked up the steps, past dozens of people sitting in the shade, and visited the big statue of Mr. Lincoln. As I looked up at his wise old face I wondered what he would think of “the party of Lincoln” today, led by a barely literate, narcissistic conman who spreads hateful messages that divide the country he fought so hard to keep together 150 years ago.

I walked to the north wing of the building where Lincoln’s second inaugural address had been inscribed on the wall. (The Gettysburg Address is on the wall in the south wing.) Although it touches on many religious themes and quotes Jesus more than once, it finishes with words that I wish a real president would take to heart sometime soon:

With malice toward none, with charity for all, with firmness in the right as God gives us to see the right, let us strive on to finish the work we are in, to bind up the nation’s wounds, to care for him who shall have borne the battle and for his widow and his orphan, to do all which may achieve and cherish a just and lasting peace among ourselves and with all nations.

Lincoln was a wise man, but I can’t see anything he had in common with today’s Republicans.

Afterwards, I went outside and sat on the steps. The sun was setting on the other side of the building so the steps were in the shade. A lot of people were gathered, sitting around, chatting, resting. I saw the spot on one of the landings where Martin Luther King, Jr. had made his “I Have a Dream” speech in 1963; someone had splashed the letters engraved there with water.

Reflecting Pool
In case you’re wondering, this is what Lincoln is looking out at.

Getting a Lyft from there back to the AirBnB took a long time with three scheduled drivers cancelling before one finally arrived. When I got back to the tiny apartment, I ate leftovers from the day before. I was asleep before 9.

Going to Virginia

I checked out of my AirBnB unit around 8 AM and headed toward the metro station on foot carrying my bags. Every time I take a small bag without wheels I swear I’ll use a wheelie bag next time but I still find myself using shoulder bags. That wouldn’t be so bad if I didn’t buy so many books along the way.

Breakfast
This was the best breakfast of my trip. The coffee cup was the size of a small soup bowl.

I stopped for breakfast at a cafe near the Eastern Market metro stop. They gave me a huge cup of coffee with my smoked salmon omelette.

Then I used the Metro card I’d bought on my first day to hop on a train bound for Virginia. I made sure I got on the right train so I wouldn’t have to change trains. It took at least 30 minutes to get to Wiehle-Reston East station. Once there, I called a Lyft and took that to the Steven F Udavar-Hazy Center, which is right near Dulles Airport.

At the National Air and Space Museum’s Udavar-Hazy Center

SR-71
In your face: an SR-71 is the first thing you see when you arrive.

It was raining pretty hard when I arrived. I walked in, went through security, and checked all of my bags in a locker. Then I walked into the biggest hangar I’d ever been in and let my jaw drop. I mean, how could I not? I was standing on a platform overlooking the hangar floor with a SR-71 Blackbird right in front of me and a space shuttle in the room behind it. Parked on the floor and hanging from the ceiling on both sides of me were well over 100 aeronautically significant airplanes.

Completely overwhelmed by what I was seeing, I decided to take a free guided tour. I went down to the tour meet-up area where a bunch of people were already waiting. They split the group in two and I went with one guided by a retired aeronautical engineer. When he learned that I was from Washington State, he began stressing the world Boeing and looking pointedly at me every time he said it. (Boeing is based in Seattle. I don’t live anywhere near Seattle.)

He spent 90 minutes showing us around, mostly in the pre-1920 Aviation area and military aviation areas covering the period up to the end of World War II. It was the tip of the iceberg. When he let us loose, I walked the entire floor, reading plaques for anything that interested me, and taking dozens of photos.

Discovery
The Discovery Space Shuttle is in a room surrounded space stuff. When I put a few photos on Twitter, a Twitter friend of mine asked if a computer unit he used to work on (The IDEX II Workstation) was still on display; I went back to this room, found it, and sent him a photo.

Planes
Planes, planes, and more planes. This is the commercial and general aviation side of the building, with a Concorde, Boeing 707 (367-80 or “Dash 80”), and I think a DC-3(?) with all kind of planes hanging around them. The Vertical Flight area was in the far corner of this room.

World's Smallest Plane
This plane was so small that it fit under the wing of another plane.

I won’t share all the photos. (Seriously: after reading this far you must be exhausted.) I will say this: if you have any interest whatsoever in aviation, you must go visit the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center in Chantilly, VA. Honestly — it will blow you away. This is an aviation museum designed for real aviation enthusiasts. Kids would likely get bored within an hour, but if you are fascinated by aviation and want to see and learn about all kinds of aircraft, this is the place to visit.

I spent nearly the whole day there. By 3 PM, I was hungry and very disappointed to see that the only food available was at the McDonald’s inside the museum. (Really? Is that the best they can do?) I bought some sort of chicken thing that actually contained chicken, some fries, and one of their cheap hot-fudge sundaes.

After my late lunch, I made my way up to the observation tower to watch the planes coming in for landing at Dulles. It was a perfectly miserable day with low ceilings and heavy rain. The jets came out of the clouds not far from the tower, which has 360° views of the surrounding area. There was an aviation radio tuned into the approach (but sadly not tower) frequency. I stayed for about 20 minutes; while I was there a group of high school students came up with sketch books and sketched various part of the tower’s inside.

Watching Planes Land
What a miserable day, eh?

Winding Down and Heading Out

By about 4:30, I was ready to go. I called the Fairfield Inn, where I’d booked a room, and arranged for a shuttle. Soon I was in a very comfortable business style hotel room that looked out over the hotel’s front entrance. I settled in to watch a movie on HBO. I was exhausted.

Later, I found a Chinese restaurant online that delivered and ordered enough food to meet their delivery minimums. I was surprised when the delivery guy brought it right to my room. It was really good but there was a ton leftover. I stowed it in the room’s little fridge.

In the morning, I woke early, as I usually do. I washed all of my dirty clothes in the laundry room on the premises. While I was waiting for it to finish, I checked out the free breakfast. I was absolutely appalled by the mess left by other guests and not tended to by any hotel staff. I’m talking about food on the floor and countertops, abandoned meals, lack of forks and napkins, empty coffee urns. And that was less than an hour after breakfast opened! It was a real shame; the hotel was nice and very comfortable, but they completely dropped the ball on the breakfast.

By 10:30, I was heading out in the hotel shuttle. Rather than go all the way back into the city for a return train ride, I’d booked a flight on American Airlines to Newark. I could carry on my bag. By some miracle, I got TSA Pre√ so security went quickly. The flight was short and I tracked our progress on ForeFlight along the way, seeing a lot of familiar territory from the air.

My brother met me at the airport and we went back to his place where Penny was very happy to see me.

We ate that leftover Chinese food for dinner.

(Continued in Part 4: Killing Time in New Jersey)

Flying with a 1914 Curtiss Flying Boat

The challenging part of this photo flight wasn’t the photo flight.

It had been on my calendar for months: take a photographer to fly with a rebuilt 1914 Curtiss F Model Flying Boat, supposedly the only one in existence from the 300 originally built.

My friends Mark and Karen at Century Aviation had been working on it for over a year, restoring it for businessman and aviation enthusiast Bill Nutt from the few parts they had managed to acquire. I saw the start of their work at their annual hangar party in the summer of 2017. By June’s Aviation Day event at the airport, it was pretty much done and on display in one of the FedEx hangars.

1914 Curtiss Flying Boat Under Reconstruction 1914 Curtiss Flying Boat Fully Restored
The Flying Boat project in August 2017 (left) and in June 2018 (right) when it was pretty much finished. Fun fact: There are more than 8,000 tiny screws holding the wood planks in place on the plane’s hull.

The great thing about this restoration is that the owner wanted a fully functional plane. That meant it had to fly. So they scheduled a test flight for July and contacted me about taking along a photographer to document the flight. Unfortunately, some engine issues caused a postponement and they had to work around the pilot’s schedule. He was next available in mid August so that’s when we rescheduled the flight.

The folks at Century had to disassemble the plane, stow it in a custom trailer built just to transport it, and tow it down to Moses Lake, which was where they planned to fly it. The plane does not have wheels or any landing gear at all; it’s a boat and can only take off and land in water. Although the Columbia River is right here, they felt that Moses Lake, about an hour away by car, would be better. Less possibility of crowds and boat traffic and no obstructions like overhead wires, bridges, or dams. They also needed a place to reassemble and launch the plane; they arranged with some folks who lived on the north end of the lake to use their property.

They drove down on Monday morning and spent the day working on the plane. The test flight was scheduled for Tuesday with the possibility of trying again on Wednesday if necessary.

Getting There

Spoiler alert: the most challenging part of the mission for me was just getting my helicopter to Moses Lake.

We’d decided that I’d go down on Monday so I was ready first thing in the morning to fly. I packed a tent and sleeping bag, all prepared to camp out in the yard. I also brought a cooler with ice and water and a bed for Penny.

I watched the weather all day. I wasn’t worried about storms — it was visibility that was an issue. For three weeks, we’d been dealing with smoke from various fires north of here. The smoke drifted into the Wenatchee Valley and settled in, thick enough to smell. I monitor air quality via an app and website and smoke was giving us “Unhealthy” and even “Hazardous” air. Visibility at the airport just four miles away had gotten as low as 3/4 of a mile. That day, it was hovering around two miles.

Wenatchee Pangborn Memorial Airport has class E airspace. That means that when visibility drops below 3 miles, I can’t fly there without a special VFR clearance. Trouble is, there is no tower at Wenatchee so to request my clearance I need to contact Seattle Center. And the problem I encountered that afternoon, as I idled at my landing zone in a deep valley, was that I simply couldn’t reach Seattle Center on the radio.

I could reach the local Flight Service Station, however, so that’s who I called. They relayed my request to Seattle and relayed the response back to me. There was a plane on approach and I couldn’t get my clearance until he was on the ground.

So I sat there, spinning, burning fuel, grateful that the helicopter has air conditioning. I listened in on Wenatchee’s radio frequency and heard the plane call 10 miles out. That kind of pissed me off because I had a 3-minute flight ahead of me and could have done it at least twice before he even entered the airspace. But okay. Whatever. I waited.

Then he was on the ground and a helicopter made a call. Shit. How did he get clearance before me?

I called Flight Service again to remind him that I was still waiting. He mentioned the helicopter and then told me to hold. I held. Eventually, he came back and gave me my Special VFR clearance to reposition to the airport. I wasted no time climbing out and heading across the river.

It had taken me about 20 minutes from startup to landing less than four miles away.

I ordered fuel, wondering how long it would take for me to get out and on my way to Moses Lake.

Fortunately, the wait to depart was much shorter. After topping off both tanks and checking the oil — hot dip stick! — on level ground, I started back up. This time, I called Seattle Center directly. They had me hold until a cargo plane that had just departed cleared the airspace to the west and then cleared me to depart Special VFR at or below 10,000 feet. Easy enough; I had no intention of losing sight of the ground.

Instead of flying direct, I departed the airport and descended down until I was about 400 feet over the river. The problem with the direct route is that it would take me right over the top of Lower Moses Coulee, which is a relatively wide canyon east of the airport. I worried that once I left the canyon’s west rim I might lose sight of the ground below me and the opposite rim. I don’t like to lose sight of anything when I fly and I wasn’t taking any chances.

I watched my position on Foreflight’s moving map and called Seattle Center to report clear of Class Echo when I was abeam the mouth of Lower Moses Coulee. By that time, I was low enough between the cliffs on either side of the river to have garbled communications with them. I thought I heard them ask for my altitude and heading so I reported both. Then I changed frequencies, eager to silence their nearly constant communications with airliners coming and going around Seattle.

I followed the river down to Crescent Bar and then climbed up over Babcock Bench before setting course for Moses Lake. The farms and orchards of Quincy emerged below me out of what looked like a fog. Visibility was slightly better than it had been in Wenatchee. The air was smooth and I was very surprised to discover, when comparing airspeed to groundspeed, that I I had about a 15 knot headwind. No turbulence at all. I turned on my radar altimeter — the $10K piece of equipment the FAA made me buy — because I was curious about how high up I was comfortable flying in the muck. 350 to 450 feet. I soon lost sight of the hills north of Quincy and had some trouble staying on course with nothing on the horizon to aim for. The radio, tuned into Quincy’s frequency and then Moses Lake’s, was eerily quiet.

My landing zone was on a piece of land three miles west southwest of the airport, within the Class Delta airspace. That meant talking to the tower. Fortunately, visibility there was four miles so a Special VFR clearance was not necessary. I told the controller where I planned to land and he cleared me for transition. I was just setting down when I reported landing assured.

On the Ground in Moses Lake

They had a sprinkler going in an area that would have been a good landing zone, but I didn’t know if they expected me to land there so I didn’t. Instead, I landed in a spot between a small orchard and some overhead wires. There was a burn pile nearby and I was so focused on that, wondering if I’d blow it away, that I was a bit surprised when my left skid touched down before my right one. There was a little slope to my landing zone, but not enough to be an issue. I set down, reduced the throttle to cool down RPM, and opened the door. I dropped Penny out to investigate while I finished shutting down.

One of my hosts, Lois, appeared moments later. When I shut down and got out, she greeted me. She immediately offered up a bed in the house. Faced with the choice of a bedroom near a bathroom or a tent in a smoky yard, I agreed to take the bed.

The plane was parked in front of Lois and Virgil’s garage, sheltered on one side by its big transport trailer and on the upwind side by a motorhome. It was tied down firmly at four points; it would be tragic indeed if the strong wind coming out of the east blew it over.

Curtiss Flying Boat in the Driveway
The plane was securely tied down in the driveway, sheltered from the wind on three sides.

Then Karen, Century’s co-owner, pulled up in her car and whisked Penny and me away to a Mexican restaurant in downtown Moses Lake. The Century crew, the plane’s owner (Bill), and a bunch of friends — I think there may have been 20 of us — sat a long table. We enjoyed drinks and huge portions of Mexican food, treated by Bill.

Afterwards, Penny and I hitched a ride back to the landing zone with Bruce, who was staying in the motorhome. (The others were staying in two rented houses in town.) That’s when he told me about flying helicopters in Vietnam and gave me a firsthand account of his participation ferrying people out during the fall of Saigon. He said that they had to toss the helicopters into the water because the helicopters waiting to land were running out of fuel and ditching and the rescue crews were working nonstop to pull people out of the water. (Seriously, kids: never pass up an opportunity to talk to an older person about the amazing things they were part of in their lives.) Now he flies freight in airplanes for a living, but he wished he’d gotten his civilian helicopter rating.

Back at the landing zone, a young guy in a uniform was hanging around by a pickup truck parked near the plane. Hired security. He’d be spending the night. I thought it was completely unnecessary — heck, you couldn’t see the plane from any road or the lake — but better safe than sorry, I guess.

I chatted with my hosts for a while before turning in. I’d been up since 4 AM, which is relatively common for me, and was tired. My bedroom was small — barely big enough for the queen sized bed! — but the bed was comfortable and the place was quiet. After feeding Penny some chicken and rice from my dinner — I’d forgotten to bring dog food which she probably wouldn’t have eaten anyway — I set up her bed on the corner of mine and turned in. I slept relatively well.

Fly Day

I woke around 4:30. This is one of the reasons I hate being a houseguest. I wake up very early and then I have to stay very quiet until other people wake up. So I did what I often do: read articles on the Web, visit Twitter, complete crossword puzzles. That took me to nearly 6 AM. By that time, it was daylight and I was ready to go outside. So I dressed, washed up quietly ,cleaned up the room, gathered my belongings, and slipped outside with Penny in tow.

Curtis Flying Boat, Parked
The plane was safe and sound in the morning. On the right side of this shot, you can see part of the trailer it travels in.

The security guy was gone. Virgil was awake, doing stuff outside. I helped him pick raspberries from his garden for breakfast. We chatted, skirting around the issue of politics. He started to say something about liberals, thought better of it, and was likely relieved that he had stopped talking when I admitted that I leaned left. I said that I wished people would gather information from reliable sources and form their own educated opinions rather than latching on to the opinions of others. And we left it there.

Back in the house, Lois was making breakfast, which consisted of a lot of fresh fruit, oatmeal (the kind you cook, which is honestly the only kind worth eating), and meatless sausage and potato patties. There was no coffee, which I (mistakenly) thought wouldn’t be a problem. Virgil said grace before we put food on our plates. He had a lot to say to the Lord that morning, from thanks for the food to requests for good weather and a successful flight.

Other people started arriving after 7 AM. Bruce came in and joined us. Then some other folks. Soon we had a bunch of cars parked haphazardly around the place and people going in and out to use the bathroom. I thanked my hosts for breakfast and went back outside, where Penny was already giving hell to the three-legged dog from next door.

The crew got right to work on the plane. They had to check all the wire fasteners for tightness, add oil and fuel, and do countless other things I have no clue about. There were ladders all over the place. I managed to get a few interesting shots of the plane and its controls while they worked.

Working on the Plane
The crew works to prepare the plane for flight while others look on. That’s the pilot, Rob, in the black shorts.

Cockpit of 1914 Curtiss Flying Boat
The cockpit is pretty simple. For this flight, they had the “everyday” fabric seat cushions in. The leather cushions they made will likely be installed when its on display.

Experimental Label
Karen affixes the Experimental placard to the inside of the cockpit as required by the FAA.

Curtiss Flying Boat Engine
A closeup of the Flying Boat’s engine with pusher prop. This is (obviously) not the original engine, but it was built specifically for this plane based on period designs. You can see Mark’s face framed by the engine supports just below the radiator.

Mark & Karen
Mark and Karen pose by the plane’s tail for an interview by NCWLife, a local television channel.

First Try

We got all the cars moved out of the way and Virgil moved the motorhome. Mark did a briefing on what would happen next and they started moving the plane, on its cart, down to the water. I had my phone out with a battery pack on it and Periscoped the whole thing. It was long and, in more than a few parts, boring. That’s because it happened at the speed of real life, which tends to be slow. Mark and Karen weren’t taking any chances rushing through things.

Of course, I wasn’t there to put the event on social media. I was there to fly a photographer in my helicopter. That means I needed to be ready to fly when they were. At first, Mark asked me to get the helicopter going just before they started the engine, but when he realized how much I wanted to hear the engine, he said to do it right after they started. So I stuck with it, narrating and answering questions along the way. There weren’t many viewers until right around the time they started the engine. So instead of shutting it down, I handed it off to one of the other bystanders. Apparently, she wasn’t as dedicated as I was and eventually put the phone down without turning off the video. If you do watch it, have patience.

I’d already briefed the photographer, Steve, and told him he could keep shooting until after I got the helicopter started. So it was running when he joined me. I helped him with his life vest — I always supply flotation devices when doing photo flights over water — and made sure he was strapped in. Then I made a radio call to Moses Lake tower, telling the controller we’d be operating over the lake. They were already briefed about what we’d be doing and I’d likely be operating below the airport field elevation anyway. For the rest of the day, all I had to do was call when I took off and call again when I landed. It was automatically assumed that the Flying Boat would be operating at the same time.

When we took off, the plane was just taxiing into the lake. I formed up immediately with it, flying on its left (port) side. Steve is a smart guy who had no problem with my request to sit behind me for the flight. Doing so made it possible for me to see exactly what he saw and put him in position to get the best shots. I’ve dealt with too many stubborn photographers who expect me to get them into position when I can’t see what they’re looking at. I now require all photographers to sit behind me for air-to-air flights.

Rob took the plane down the lake, slowly building speed. We followed off his left shoulder. At first, I was kind of high — the water was glassy smooth and I really don’t like flying low over featureless surfaces. But I worked my way down, matching the speed of the plane below me at or below 100 feet over the water.

It wasn’t very eventful. He didn’t get very far. After a while, he killed the engine and the boat drifted to a stop.

I circled a few times as a boat with some of the crew on board motored over. Of course, I didn’t know what was going on. The Flying Boat didn’t have a radio and my cell phone was with Rita. When they came out with a jet ski and started towing it back to base, I headed back in and landed.

By the time I’d shut down and returned to lakeside, the plane was back. It turned out that there were multiple problems:

  • Water was getting into the boat’s hull. This was probably a combination of seepage and possibly a leak or two.
  • The engine wasn’t getting enough power to get the plane up to speed.
  • There wasn’t enough rudder to steer the plane properly.

Needless to say, we were all very disappointed. As I watched them bail out the plane with a small bucket, I started wondering if the whole thing was a failure.

Second Try

It was still early in the day and the place was crawling with mechanics and engineers so there really wasn’t any reason to give up. I went with one of the guests to a sporting goods store to buy a handheld pump to make it easier to get water out of the boat. Because I had a splitting headache likely caused by caffeine withdrawal, we stopped at an espresso stand for an iced latte. (It worked! Headache was gone before we got back!) Then Home Depot to get some hose.

While we were gone, they did something with the rudder cables to improve steering. Oddly, the design they’d worked with had a wooden block back in the tail; they had no idea what it was for but included it anyway. Apparently, it was to tie the cables in such a way that they wouldn’t rub against another part when the rudder was full left or right. So they were prepared for the fix. I imagined a mechanic back in 1912 having the same problem and solving it with that little wooden block.

Meanwhile, we had lunch — sandwiches with fresh tomatoes from the garden. Penny shared some of my turkey.

Then they were ready to try again. Steve and I headed out to the helicopter. This time we were airborne before they started the engine. We got to see Mark crank it — there was no electric start — and the prop start spinning. Then Mark climbed out of the way and Rob took his seat. As we circled about 200 feet up, he headed off into the lake.

This time, Steve and I paid closer attention to the way the plane moved in the water. We realized that spray from its movement was coming up under the rear horizontal do-dad — heck, sometimes I really wish I knew airplane parts! — and spraying up against the rudder. The hull seemed to ride low in the water. Although Rob seemed to have better steering control, he still didn’t get enough speed to take off. So he killed the engine again. The boat and jet ski moved in and I went in to land.

Third Try

One of the crew bailed out the boat with the hand pump while the others talked to Rob. It seemed that the steering problem. But the water getting in the boat was weighing it down and it seemed to be too low in the back. They decided to try ballast.

They filled two big black garbage bags with gravel and weighed them. I didn’t get the weights. They took one of the bags and secured it at the very front inside the plane’s hull. They were turning the plane around to face the lake when Steve and I headed back to the helicopter.

We launched and circled as they started it back up. It headed out to the lake. The tail was definitely riding higher in the water. Rob seemed determined to get it up to speed as quickly as possible — possibly to minimize water in the hull. He took it pretty far down the lake and I really thought he might take off. But then, suddenly, he killed the engine and let it drift.

It looked for a moment as if the wind might blow it to the opposite shore of the lake, but then the jet ski came out and attached the tow rope and they were headed back. I was back on the ground looking for chocolate chip cookies before they got back.

Fourth Time is the Charm

The verdict was that the weight in the front definitely helped but they needed more. So they secured the other bag of gravel. As they turned around the plane, Steve and I headed back to the helicopter. As I lifted off and called the tower, I said “Let’s hope fourth time is the charm.”

“Good luck,” he replied.

Again, we circled the plane as they started it up and Rob taxied it out. He headed down the lake, right into the wind, picking up speed quickly. He wasn’t messing around — he clearly planned to get it off the water if possible. I had a feeling that they’d all agreed that this would be the last try.

I dropped down as low as I dared, watching the plane the whole time. It looked light on the water.

“I see light under the tail,” Steve called out.

And then it lifted off the water and into the air. It was flying.

Flying Boat Floating
An aerial view of the Flying Boat flying over Moses Lake for the first time on August 21, 2018.

I keyed the mic; the radio was still tuned into Moses Lake tower. “The flying boat is flying,” I told them.

“Fourth try was the charm,” the controller replied. “Congratulations.”

Meanwhile, Steve was snapping photos like crazy. The plane kept moving and I kept moving along with it. It got about 50 feet off the water. It came down for a landing, skirted along the top of the water briefly, and came back up into the air. It flew for a while longer.

We’d gone well over a mile from base and were coming up on a bend in the river with a bluff ahead of us. Our FAA authorization limited the plane to straight and level flight, so it was time to come back down. Rob landed, turned around, and started motoring back on the water, moving fast. For a moment, I thought he might try a tailwind takeoff — the wind wasn’t blowing more than 10 miles an hour — but no, he was just in a hurry. He came all the way back, past base, and turned around. I got the feeling he was going to try another takeoff where onlookers could actually see him. He sped up a bit, crossed the lake, and pointed into the wind. He started moving quickly, but then shut down. I suspect that water in the hull was weighing him down again.

And that was it. We circled around a bit while the boat and jet ski moved back into position to bring him back. I landed and Steve got out while I cooled down the engine and shut down.

Winding Down

Needless to say the entire crew — and the onlookers — were euphoric. The day had started bad but ended great. The only thing that really disappointed the onlookers is that they hadn’t been able to see the plane actually fly; it was too far down the lake for them to see.

I gave helicopter rides to my host and his grandkids. Then I watched them pull the plane out of the water and tow it back up the driveway. I said goodbye to everyone, adding congratulations to Mark, Karen, Bill, and Rob. Then I loaded the helicopter back up, gave one last helicopter ride to the folks who had let us use their boat ramp, and headed home.

Visibility was much better; I didn’t need a clearance to get back into Wenatchee airspace. Still, I followed the river from Crescent Bar. The water was smooth as ice. I was almost disappointed to set it down at the end of the flight, but I had places to go and things to do and I was already late.

Columbia River Reflections
Just downriver from the mouth of Lower Moses Coulee, the water was glassy smooth.

I Live for This

I realized several times during the 24 hours I was part of the Curtiss Flying Boat crew in Moses Lake just how much I enjoy things like this. I live for opportunities to be part of something amazing and this restored plane was definitely that.

It reminded me a lot of another classic airplane project I’d been involved with back in the early 2000s, when I was still flying my first helicopter, an R22. Back then, it had been a replica 1919 Vickers Vimy, the world’s largest flying biplane at the time. That project predates my blog so I don’t have any posts about it. I can’t even find any photos of it, although I’m sure I have some somewhere. My involvement was several months long but ill-fated; I have a very low tolerance for incompetence and the project was very poorly managed when I was part of it. Still, it was fun flying in formation with a giant four-engine biplane and I did very much enjoy my one and only ride.

Life is short; we need to make the most of the time we have. For eight years out of college, I worked the nine-to-five grind and I pretty much hated it. I was living inside the box that society builds for most of us, the box my family clearly expected me to stay inside as I worked my way up a corporate ladder I had no real desire to be on. Surely there was more to life than an hour-long commute to sit in a cubicle before another commute to get home, repeated daily five times a week, 50 weeks a year.

I got a glimpse of just how much more was out there when I started my second career, as a freelance writer, and got to travel, see more of the country, and speak at computer conferences in San Francisco, Boston, New York, and Toronto. Traveling from hotel to hotel, setting up classrooms for training, teaching people what I knew, getting tastes of the cities I visited. Meeting with publishers and software developers. I enjoyed my behind-the-scenes participation as a computer trainer, speaker, and author.

Later, as my helicopter career began to grow, I got a chance to be involved with the kind of flying missions that most people never even imagine: multi-day helicopter excursions, raptor surveys, pipeline patrols, Grand Canyon tours, desert racing photo flights, cherry drying, frost control, air-to-air photo flights, cattle spotting, horse herding.

I cannot imagine a life without these fascinating kinds of work. A life where every day is the same as the day before it — and the day after it. How do people do it?

And it’s not just the work — it’s the people I meet along the way. People like a businessman who pays to restore classic aircraft to share them with the world. People like the aircraft restorers who can take a pile of scrap wood and fabric and turn it into a beautiful working airplane. People like a helicopter pilot who made 15 flights to help evacuate Saigon before he helped them push his helicopter off the ship. People like an airplane pilot who has flown several airplanes dating back to the early 20th century, when aviation was in its infancy.

Watch My Helicopter Videos on YouTube

Time for a shameless plug…

Flying M Air Logo

If you like helicopters, you’ll love the FlyingMAir YouTube Channel. Check it out for everything from time-lapse annual inspections to cockpit POV autorotation practice to a flight home from a taco dinner at a friend’s house — and more.

I have to add — because it was on my mind so many times on Tuesday — how sad I feel for my wasband, who could have been part of all of this if he hadn’t been so fearful of joining me in my life outside the box. The man I knew well — before he apparently lost his mind — would have really enjoyed the experience, even if he had been stuck on the ground for the flight attempts. He was an engineer, after all, and the plane is fascinating. I could almost imagine him talking to the mechanics, asking questions and learning about the plane’s idiosyncrasies. But I also know that if we’d stayed together, I’d likely miss out on so many of the opportunities I’ve had since our split. What’s sad for him is good for me. I’m sure he’s perfectly happy with his life inside his box. He’ll never know what he’s missing. Most people don’t.

But this is what I live for — experiences that make my life fuller and more interesting. And I’m always looking for the next opportunity.

Want More?

Watch this video produced by NCWLife: