Campground Grief

I have the worst campground stay ever, mostly because of the campground manager’s psychotic wife.

I’m snowbirding again, traveling in Arizona with my truck camper, which I hope to sell. I’d planned to come down here on a much shorter trip in my little Honda S2000. As the weather at home got gloomier and gloomier, I decided to load up the camper and head out early, spending more time with friends and enjoying the desert. My house-sitter was thrilled to be able to check in early; he’s a skier and loves spending winters at my house.

This has been a rocky journey. The first hurdle was serious truck troubles in Kingman, AZ that took time and money to resolve. Fortunately, I had both, although I’d prefer to spend them on other things. Then I had some camper battery issues near Tucson. More money, not much time, got the batteries replaced.

But, in general, the trip has been great so far. I visited a bunch of friends, saw some property for a potential relocation next year, and have been buying the cabochons I need to make jewelry — something I hope to get back to as soon as I return home.

Quartzsite is my current stop and I booked three nights at what I thought was Rice Ranch at the corner of Keuhn and Rte 95, very close to Tyson Wells where my friend Janet has a booth selling her artwork. I’d stayed there before and it was extremely convenient for me, as well as being far enough off the freeway that it was pretty quiet at night.

And that’s where my Quartzsite visit went south.

My Mistake: Booking at Rice Ranch North

You see, it turns out that I didn’t book at Rice Ranch. I booked at Rice Ranch North, which is east of Rice Ranch and completely unaffiliated. So when I turned up at Rice Ranch in the dark after driving 4 1/2 hours from Phoenix in too much traffic — rush hour there, construction near Quartzsite — I couldn’t find the entrance.

I called the number for the place and left a message. A woman called right back and directed me to their place, which I’d driven right past. It was crazy dark and, when I found my way in, she directed me with a flashlight to back into a spot.

I was angry and flustered about being somewhere I didn’t expect to be — somewhere that wasn’t walking distance from Tyson Wells in the dark or with bags of purchases and dogs on leashes. When I mentioned that I might nose in, the woman said I wasn’t allowed to. When I asked her why, she said that “everyone else would want to.” What kind of juvenile nonsense was that? I don’t take kindly to idiotic rules and pushed back. It turned into a bit of a shouting match. Finally, she went away.

I was supposed to visit Janet at Tyson Wells on arrival and there was no way I was going to walk there in the inky blackness. So I backed out, found my way out the exit — after making two wrong turns; I did mention it was dark, didn’t I? — and went to Tyson Wells. I relaxed a little with her. We both agreed that it didn’t matter which way my rig pointed as long as I was parked in my site. After about 45 minutes, I went back to the campground, found my site, and nosed in.

Intimidation and Another Surprise

I was feeding my dogs less than 5 minutes later when someone outside said “knock knock.” It was a man’s voice. He said he was the manager.

Feeling intimidated by the appearance of a stranger in the dark, I opened the door just enough to talk to him. He said I had to back in because that was the rule. When I asked him why, at least he had a decent reason: he was worried about people tripping over my power cable, hose, sewer pipe, etc. I assured him that would not be a problem. I told him I’d had a long drive with a lot of traffic, was very tired, and was someplace I didn’t expect to be. He said that we’d talk about it in the morning and left.

(As Janet wondered the next morning, how could people trip over my cables and hoses if they were contained in my site? What would other people be doing in my site?)

After feeding and walking my dogs, I went out to plug in. There was no 30 amp power at my site, which is what my rig takes. Just 20 amp (household current) and 50 amp. Fortunately, I have an adapter. I plugged in and made a mental note not to run the coffee maker and microwave at the same time.

My Daily Routine

I slept like crap. I hate listening to freeway noise and there’s no escaping it at that campground.

In the morning, I was up as early as usual. At around 7, I unplugged, stored my cable, and left the campsite. Since I couldn’t easily walk from the campsite to Tyson Wells, I figured I’d just park at Tyson Wells every day. The camper has For Sale signs on it and it would be better to be someplace where a possible buyer might see it anyway.

I needed to get there early to get a good spot. I wound up parking on the main road, backed in so my camper door would be by the walkway and safer to get my pups in and out. That’s one of the benefits of my setup: I can fit in just about any parking space.

I took my pups on a short hike with Janet and her dogs at around 8:30, then stowed my pups in the camper, took out my ebike, and went to the rock show at Desert Gardens. I spent hours there. Then I got back, took my pups for a walk, stowed them again, and walked around the south side of Tyson Wells. Lots to see and buy! Parking at Tyson Wells during the day was working out very well for me.

At around 5 PM, after making dinner arrangements with Janet, I took the camper back to the campground. I passed the manager’s wife as I came in and noted that she was watching me closely. I backed in — it was easier that way since I had to plug in and unplug again in the morning. She didn’t bother me.

Janet came a while later and drove us to dinner at Taco Mio. (Highly recommended. I’m re-heating my leftovers on the stove now as I type this.) She dropped me back off around 7:30. I walked my pups again, then closed up for the night. No one bothered me.

That was Wednesday. On Thursday, I did pretty much the same thing, but took a different parking spot a bit farther down the road at Tyson Wells. This time, after our walk I treated myself to an excellent (but expensive!) cinnamon roll before putting the pups into the camper for the day.

Then I was off to the Pow Wow, which was the main show I’d come to Quartzsite for. It’s on the other side of the freeway, an easy ride from Tyson Wells (or the real Rice Ranch). I spent the whole day walking around looking at rocks.

After lunch and more rocks, I was burned out and went back to Tyson Wells. I told Janet I’d make dinner and she agreed to come to my campsite.

I stopped at RV Pitstop to get my propane bottles filled and Reader’s Oasis (which is sad without Paul) to look for affordable old atlas books. Then back to the campground. It was sometime around 4 PM. I backed in. This time, I plugged in power, connected my hose, and even connected my sewer pipe. I’d be leaving the next day and wanted to dump my waste tanks and top off my water tank before departure. I also wanted a good hot shower to get some of the Quartzsite dust off me. (If you’ve ever been here, you know what a losing battle that is.)

For the rest of the afternoon and into the evening, trucks came and went in a truck yard I hadn’t noticed before between the campground and the freeway. There was some talk over either a loudspeaker or a radio turned way up. This was the first time I’d heard it, since I hadn’t spent much time at the campground during the day. It was pretty annoying at times. Even Janet commented on it after she arrived around 5:30.

We had dinner inside my rig, watching a nice sunset at the end of what had been a cloudy — with even some rain! — afternoon. She stayed until about 7:30. After struggling with Quartzsite’s notoriously bad evening internet service — a topic for another blog post — I retired to my bed with a book and had another fitful night of sleep listening to freeway traffic.

The Psycho Bitch Goes Psycho

I had already decided to take Friday off from rock shopping. I figured I’d have a leisurely morning, dump my waste tanks, fill my water tank, and leave just before 11 AM, which was checkout time. I was looking forward to microwaving that leftover burrito from Taco Mio before unplugging and pulling out.

I dealt with the sewer tank first. That required me to dump everything, lift the hose — because the campground had a sewer port that was idiotically extended at least 10 inches above the ground — and continue lifting until all the waste was out. Then I had to add water to the toilet with the toilet chemical. Then clean the sewer hose. Then hook up the water filter and fill the fresh water tank.

Somewhere during this process, I left the back door of the camper open. My pups had been on the bed in a patch of sunlight. When I was finished with the hoses and had stowed them, I grabbed their leashes, ready to take them for a quick walk before I heated my early lunch. But they were not in the camper.

They were nowhere in sight.

I knew this wouldn’t end well, but I could never imagine just how poorly it would end. I called and called. The manager’s wife was in a golf cart and called out to me, “Are you looking for your dogs?”

I called back that I was. She pointed. I headed that way, still calling. The dogs appeared. I put them in the camper and closed the door.

The manager’s wife came up to me and I asked her, “Did they shit anywhere?” There’s one thing I’m very good about and that’s cleaning up after my dogs. So many places forbid dogs because of a few inconsiderate people that let their dogs shit all over the place. I’m not one of those people. I figured she was coming over to me to tell me that they’d made a mess somewhere and I was ready to go clean it up.

But no. She came to lecture me. “I don’t know,” she said. “Your dogs need to be on a leash here.”

“I didn’t even know they’d gotten out,” I said in my defense.

And then she went psycho.

She started screaming at me and kicked me out of the campground.

I had to laugh at her. I had 45 minutes left in my stay and she had decided to kick me out. She started ranting about me coming and going and told me she thought I was going to leave Wednesday and not come back. I said I’d paid for three nights and I wanted to use them. I told her that if she’d offered me a refund, I would have left. She said they had a 7 day refund policy. I said I wasn’t about to leave when I’d paid for the site.

She totally wigged out. It was as if she’d been harboring this anger against me since my arrival on Tuesday night and had used my loose dogs as an excuse to explode. It was crazy weird.

Broken Cable
The cable wasn’t like this before she yanked it out. The yellow thing is the adapter I needed to use because my site didn’t have 30 amp power.

When I told her I wasn’t going to leave until checkout time at 11 AM and went to drop off a poop bag in the nearly overflowing garbage dumpster, she stalked over to the power pedestal, roughly pulled out my power cord, and locked the box. I plugged it into the other side of the pedestal, thinking about the yummy burrito waiting to be heated! She yanked it out again. This time, she broke the cable.

I told her I wasn’t leaving until 11 AM. She threatened to call the police. I told her to call them. She must have told me another 10 times to leave and I just laughed at her. She got more and more angry. It was so funny to watch.

Then I tried to talk to the owner, who other people said was in a motorhome nearby. I spoke to a very nice older woman who seemed nearly as flustered as I was. But then the psycho bitch ran over and started trash talking me to her. I went back inside my camper, not even sure if I’d been speaking to the owner after all.

The psycho bitch came raving back to my rig and yelled at me to leave. I told her to call the police. I told her I’d paid up until 11 AM and that’s when I was leaving.

It was comical to see how crazy she got. She said she’d call 911 — as if I were some sort of emergency. She finally got someone on the phone. She was parked in her golf cart right next to my rig and read someone my license plate. She gave them my first name and when she couldn’t come up with my last name, I opened the window and told her what it was. I think she was extra annoyed when I spelled it for her.

And then she started lying to the cops. She told them that I said I was leaving but instead I was sneaking in and out at night so no one could talk to me. Utter bullshit. I was back at the campsite every single day before dark — she’d even watched me come in on Wednesday! Her lies totally pissed me off, so I called the cops, too. I told them what was going on and that I wanted to set the fact straight. The woman I spoke to said that there was only one officer for Quartzsite — poor woman! — and that she was already backed up on several calls. I gave the woman who answered the phone my name and phone number and told her that I saw no reason to wait around. I asked that the responding officer call me.

And then I loaded my pups into the truck and left. It was 10:45 AM. The psycho bitch was standing at the golf cart with two or three older women watching the road for the police car. It’s nearly 1 PM now and I wouldn’t be surprised if she is still waiting.

Back to the Desert

I drove out to the desert about a mile from there and found a nice spot for the rest of the day and the night. And don’t tell anyone, but my dogs were loose for 15 minutes!

Parked in the Desert
Although the BLM land in the desert around Quartzsite isn’t exactly scenic, it is free, quiet, and lacks psychotic managers.

I’d wanted to take the day off to do some writing, but never dreamed I’d be writing about nonsense like this. People who can’t keep their cool dealing with guests should not be running campgrounds. I’ll have a peaceful night here, away from the freeway. Tomorrow, I’ll be back at Tyson Wells for my morning hike with Janet and her dogs.

And yes, I’ve learned my lesson: the next time I book a campsite, it won’t be online. It’ll be on the phone where I can verify the location of the campground and the features available at my site.

Snowbirding 2022: In the Desert South of Ajo, AZ

A look at some Sonoran desert vegetation.

I’m camped out in the desert south of Ajo, AZ for two nights. This video takes you on a tour of the Sonoran desert vegetation around my camper.

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Snowbirding 2021: A Visit to Slab City

I finally get to see a place I’ve heard about numerous times and always wondered about.

I can’t remember exactly when I heard about Slab City, CA. I suspect it was about five years ago when I started visiting the Holtville Hot Springs and listening to the other RVers talk there about free places to camp.

Slab City on Wikipedia

Per Wikipedia, Slab City,

also called The Slabs, is an unincorporated, off-the-grid squatter community consisting largely of snowbirds in the Salton Trough area of the Sonoran Desert, in Imperial County, California. It took its name from concrete slabs that remained after the World War II Marine Corps Camp Dunlap training camp was torn down. Slab city is known for lifestyle that contradicts ordinary civilized lifestyle.

The rest of the Wikipedia entry is extremely informative (and I encourage you to read it), but appears to have been written mostly around 1990 and then edited to add information in 2020. (The editor in me would love to go into that entry and clean it up, but I’ll let experts tackle it.) There are photos, but I suspected that none would do it justice and I wound up being right.

The Trip

I’ve been wanting to check it out for myself for a few years. I decided to make it one of my goals for this year. But I wasn’t interested in dragging all my RVing gear out there, possibly to find a place where I wouldn’t want to camp. I wanted to make it a day trip from my campsite on the Arizona side of the Colorado River. It would be a roughly 2-1/2 hour drive each way.

Sometimes the only thing that prevents me from doing something I genuinely do want to do is motivation. I lacked motivation until this week. That’s when I happened to mention it to a new friend of mine, Bill, who is a full-time RVer. He very unexpectedly said he was interested in checking it out, too. And since he was camped out nearly halfway between my site and Slab City, it made sense for me to pick him up along the way if we did it before he moved on.

I set the date for Wednesday, which was the day after we spoke about it. There was a big holiday weekend coming up and I wanted to stick around near camp. A lot of crazies come out here with their off-road vehicles and I just felt the need to stay where I could keep an eye on things. I’m not a big fan of going out on weekends anyway, mostly because of the greater potential for crowds at my destination. One of the great things about my lifestyle is that I can go places midweek, when there are fewer people around.

That’s why I was in my truck at 8 AM on Wednesday morning with my pups, headed away from camp. I wanted to fill my truck with fuel before going into California — diesel (and other fuel, I guess) is about $1 cheaper per gallon in Arizona than California and with a 30 gallon tank that was about half full, that difference quickly turned into lunch money. I drove up to my favorite cheap gas station on my side of the river, topped off the tank, bought a pack of Oreos with a pint of milk, and set off westbound on I-10.

I was meeting Bill at Desert Center, a little over an hour west of the Colorado River. There was very little traffic, and I could cruise at or around the speed limit of 70 MPH. The stretch of I-10 between Blythe, CA on the Colorado River and Desert Center is pretty dull. A lot of empty desert, some of which has been recently filled in with huge solar energy farms. I listened to an audio book along the way and the time passed quickly. I got off the exit and rolled into the armpit of California that is the town of Desert Center.

Desert Center
Shot from a trash-strewn vacant lot near the I-10 freeway exit, this view of Desert Center, CA is what greets folks who go there.

I cannot begin to describe how trashy the place is. It’s mostly empty lots and deserted, vandalized, graffiti-painted buildings. There’s trash and broken glass everywhere. A few semis with trailers were parked in various places, engines running; I guess this is an overnight stop for some truckers. I didn’t see any sign of current habitation, which is probably a good thing. I couldn’t imagine anyone actually living there.

I arrived early, of course, and had to wait for Bill, which I didn’t mind. I let the pups out to walk around the sandy lot I’d parked in and had to follow them around to make sure they didn’t step in or try to eat anything disgusting. We wound up waiting in the truck, windows open on the warm morning. But the more I looked around, I the less I liked the idea of Bill parking his custom Mercedes Sprinter van anywhere in the area for the day.

I told him that when he arrived. He looked around and agreed. He told me it had been broken into before and it was very upsetting.

I suggested Chiriaco Summit, a busier exit on the freeway that actually had businesses in operation. It was 19 miles farther in the direction we had to go anyway. He agreed and followed me.

I knew Chiriaco Summit from flying into its tiny airport, visiting the Patton Tank Museum there, and stopping for a bite to eat at Foster’s Freeze. As I pulled in, I realized that the little “town” had grown. There were additional restaurants and a handful of other businesses. Foster’s was now inside the big gas station. There was plenty of parking that would be out of the way yet close enough to activity to not draw attention. The town was all business and neat — a huge difference from Desert Center.

He parked, we went inside the gas station to use the restroom, and Bill bought a cup of coffee for the road. Then we were on our way.

I missed the exit for Box Canyon Road mostly because I was looking north. I was distracted by the Cottonwood Springs Road entrance into Joshua Tree National Park, with lots of RVs camping out in the desert, likely just outside of park boundaries. I never realized there was a road that went south there until I’d passed the exit. Duh. The next exit was six miles west and I made my U-turn there, thus adding 12 miles to the drive.

Box Canyon Road is a great drive on a decently paved road down a wide canyon that I would not want to be stuck in during heavy rain. There were a few folks camped out in there and a few others driving the same direction we were. After a while coasting downhill on the gently curving road, we got a glimpse of the Salton Sea stretched out before us in the distance. Then the winding canyon road leveled out and opened into blocks of farmland.

We saw some very neglected grape vines, lemon trees, pepper plants ready to be harvested, and a bunch of other veggies we couldn’t easily identify. GoogleMaps directed us to make a few turns before dumping us on Route 111, Grapefruit Boulevard. It should have been called Palm Highway there because it was mostly lined with date palms for a while. Then those ended abruptly and we were in the mostly barren desert on the east shore of Salton Sea.

This is not an attractive area of desert. There isn’t much vegetation and anything that was planted and neglected — think mostly palm trees — are dead or dying. Yes, the Salton Sea sparkles just off to the west and there are snow-capped mountains beyond Palm Springs even farther west than that. But the terrain is mostly a light tan color with the occasional tiny settlement, park, or abandoned, vandalized, and grafittied building hinting at past when the area had something to brag about.

Bombay Beach

Slab City turned out to be a lot farther south than I thought. Along the way we passed the Salton Sea State Park and its campgrounds, which turned out to be closed for COVID, and a settlement boasting hot springs off to the east.

Bombay Beach Art
Is this the “Cessna Art” I was supposed to find at Bombay Beach? Is this a Cessna?

We eventually reached Bombay Beach, 223 feet below sea level, with a population 415. I’d been there before and hadn’t been impressed, but a Twitter friend urged me to revisit it, telling me there was some sort of Cessna artwork I needed to see. We drove through, spending a brief time on the sea side of the dike wall before completing a circle of the town. This sentence from Wikipedia sums it up perfectly:

A visitor in 2019 wrote that there were many “discarded homes and trailers long-since abandoned” and that many of the buildings were “windowless husks blanketed in graffiti, surrounded by broken furniture and rubble.”

Basically, the place looks like the ruins of a very poor community, long since vandalized, with a handful of occupied homes and a mildly interesting collection of very large artwork made mostly from junk. It’s a depressing place and I honestly can’t imagine what it must be like to live there.

We got back on the road and continued south.

Slab City

Welcome to Slab City
The obligatory photo of the Slab City Welcome sign.

The turn for Slab City was the Main Street for Niland, CA. Although I’d expected it to be a sort of remote place up in the foothills of the mountains beyond, it was actually spread out just a few miles from town. The absolute junkiness of the place hit me immediately. There were all kinds of broken and abandoned RVs and other vehicles, as well as broken and occupied RVs and other vehicles. The more we drove the more trash and decrepitude we saw.

Truck at Salvation Mountain
Part of the art (or “art”) installation at Salvation Mountain.

Salvation Mountain, a man-made hill painted with latex paint which had been the life’s work of a deceased resident, was the first of the art installations. Other art was more like “art.” I drove slowly through the area on what seemed like a main road while we stared at the mess around us. Yes, people lived there. There were RVs and mobile homes and shacks and even a few decent buildings. There were street signs and house numbers. There were campgrounds, one of which was hosting one of those mega-motorhomes that sell for about $750K. There was a library that was closed. There was a business at East Jesus that was closed. There was a property that used the burned out shells of RVs as a sort of fence line. The farther we got from the main area of the community, the more trash there was scattered out in the desert.

Salvation Mountain
Salvation Mountain is the primary point of interest in Slab City. Read about it on Wikipedia.

East Jesus Plane Art
A business at the end of the road to East Jesus was closed due to COVID.

I said I’d take pictures, but I took very few. The above shots are about it. Honestly, there wasn’t much I wanted a picture of.

We followed a sign for Slab LOW, not knowing what it was, and eventually arrived there. It looked like a camping area with a few buildings. Signs said they welcomed members of WIN, LOW, and Escapees — three RVer clubs. (I belong to WIN, Bill belongs to Escapees.) I stopped the truck and we got out to stretch our legs and let the pups run around. There was a single motorhome parked there and while we gave the dogs water — Rosie had puked in the truck; she still gets carsick once in a while — a man came out. Soon we were chatting with him. He lived there full time. He said the place we were at was closing and relocating elsewhere. He told us where but we never found it. Did it matter? No.

There were actually quite a few people living in the area — even if just temporarily. It looked to me as if you could camp for any length of time just about anywhere. But the vibe was about the same — at least to me — as it was at Bombay Beach. It was the ruins of something and no amount of art or “art” could hide it. Squatting on land that no one cared about was a cheap and easy way to live, but I know I could never live like that. Honestly, I’d have trouble even spending a day or two there. Too much trash. A cleanup crew could spend a year filling 30-gallon trash bags and no one would know the difference.

We didn’t stay long. And I have to admit that although Slab City sort of met my expectations, I was disappointed. I was hoping it was something better. Something more interesting. Something I’d like to stay and explore. It wasn’t. It was just a squatter community out in the desert, surrounded by decades of trash.

Lunch, the Fountain of Youth, and a Walk on the Beach

We stopped for lunch in Niland. I’d wanted very badly to go to the Oasis Date Ranch for one of their excellent hamburgers with dates on it but their cafe was closed due to COVID. The Buckshot Cafe in Niland served Mexican and American food. The restaurant itself was closed, but they were taking to-go orders through one of the front windows. We each ordered a chicken torta and wound up eating it in the back of my truck, feeding the dogs nacho chips and french fries.

Back on the road, we turned in at the sign for the Fountain of Youth RV Resort and Spa. The WIN RV group I belong to had camped there for a week in early November, before I headed south. I wanted to see what it was like. It was a typical middle-of-the-desert RV park, filled with mobile homes, park models, and regular RVs. There was a pool, a hot spring fed spa, shuffleboard, a restaurant, and more. Everyone we saw was older than we were except the kid at the gate. The campsites were close together and there were a lot of vacancies. No Canadians this year.

We checked out another RV resort with spa nearby. It was a lot smaller, more casual, and cheaper. Bill was disappointed that although they offered day use options for the spa facilities, clothing was required.

Our last stop in the valley was at a campground along the shore of Salton Sea. I’d stayed there about four years before. I wanted to show Bill the beach, which had been covered with giant barnacles and dead fish back then. The campground was closed, but we parked across the road and walked over. We climbed down an embankment and walked right up to the short. The barnacles were smaller and there were no dead fish.

Salton Sea Beach
The beach at Salton Sea. Palm Springs lies at the base of the snow-capped mountain dead center in this shot.

The Drive Back to Camp

Bill used a map app on his phone to guide me back to Box Canyon Road and we climbed up the wide canyon to the I-10 freeway. From there, it was a short drive to Chiriaco Summit. I took my pups for a quick walk with Bill. Then we said our goodbyes and he left to go to camp while I went into Foster’s Freeze for a hot fudge sundae.

I passed Bill on the road right before reaching Desert Center. He’d told me his campsite south of there was dead quiet and pitch black dark. Sounded good to me. My site would not be quiet with all the yahoos in from Phoenix with their ATVs for the long weekend, but I had a good, private camp and wasn’t ready to move. Yet.

I finished listening to the recorded book I’d been listening to along the way. I got back to camp just as the sun set over California.

If I had a bucket list, I could cross off Slab City.