The Best Camera…

… might really be the one you have with you.

I have been doing photography, mostly as a “serious amateur,” since my college days. I took a photography class in college, where I learned to develop film, make contact strips, and print negatives into 8 x 10 enlargements. For a while, I had a darkroom in my home. I went from SLRs to DSLRs, with a string of point-and-shoot digital cameras in between. I embraced digital photography — not for what I could do with Photoshop, but for the instant gratification it provided.

But let’s face it: DSLRs with their interchangeable lenses are big and bulky. As the cameras in my iPhones got better and better, I found myself reaching for my Nikon less and less. Yes, I still dragged it around with me when I traveled south for the winter in my camper and it’s even with me on my boat. But I’m just not happy with the pictures it produces.

No, it’s not a top-of-the line full-sensor Nikon. And it’s not anywhere near new at this point. But yes, I do have the quality glass (not plastic) lenses, some of which were quite costly to obtain. And it seems to me that if you have quality equipment, it shouldn’t matter how old it is. It should continue to take good pictures.

But lately, every time I’ve reached for the Nikon and twisted on its 85-300mm lens to shoot photos of mostly birds in the near distance, the images have come out like crap. Yet nearly every photo I take with my iPhone 13 Pro — yes, a 2 1/2 year old phone! — looks pretty amazing.

Hell, even my drone takes better photos.

I started to think that it might be the age of the camera. But I wasn’t the least bit interested in spending thousands of dollars on a newer Nikon DSLR or “mirrorless” — which seems to be the big trend — camera.

I thought that if I got a newer point-and-shoot, it might be better. So earlier this month I invested in a Canon Powershot SX740HS. It wasn’t cheap — it cost more than $500. For a point-and-shoot. (I could trade in my current iPhone and get a brand new one with its latest generation camera for about the same amount of money.)

I got the camera while I was at a state park in North Carolina and went on a hike. I took photos of moss on trees and flowers and birds off in the distance. It had a 40x optical zoom lens! Just what I needed to shoot images of the osprey nesting on channel markers along the ICW.

But every photo looked like crap. It wouldn’t focus right. The exposures were bad. There was no clarity in the details. Images were washed out.

I took photos of a handful of subjects with both the new camera and my iPhone to compare them side by side. Guess which one took better photos?

iPhone Photo Powershot Photo
Side by side photos of the same subject only minutes apart. The iPhone photo is on the left.

Example 2Example 2
I took the camera to the beach. Which photo do you think my iPhone took? Well, which one looks better?

I was upset and kind of angry. Why was my phone taking better photos than a camera?

I put the question to my friends on Mastodon. A few of them pointed out that Apple iPhones do a lot of image processing inside the phone. After all, the phone is a computer, isn’t it? It automatically does HDR and makes all kinds of adjustments.

I could do that too, someone pointed out. Just bring the photo into Lightroom or Photoshop.

But I don’t want to do that. I just want to capture what I’m seeing so I can remember it later or share it with others. I’m not a “serious” photographer anymore. I’m a point-and-shoot photographer. I can handle the composition; I know how to find good light. I just want the camera to record what I see. I don’t want to spend hours processing photographs. It would take all the fun and spontaneity out of it for me. It would leave me wondering, when I was done, exactly what I’d originally seen.

I returned the camera.

I’ll get the Nikon serviced and checked over for problems. They’ll clean it and return it to me. I’ll try again. But I know I won’t be happy. I know that in the future I’ll continue to use the best camera I have — the one that’s always with me and can send the pictures I take to anyone in the world, instantly.

Behind the Scenes: Cockpit Cam Instrument View Setup

A video from the FlyingMAir YouTube Channel.

COME BEHIND THE SCENES at Flying M Air while I show you my new “cockpit cam instrument view” setup. This is the same setup first used in the Helicopter POV Flight: Autumn at Mission Ridge & Wenatchee video (https://youtu.be/4aktQnGbC68), although the audio connection failed me that day.

IMPORTANT NOTE: In this video, I mentioned the GoPro Tripod mount. That is not necessary. The MyPilotPro Helicopter mount comes with a GoPro-compatible mount.

Also note that the camera setup I have here is customized to raise the camera above the bar by an extra 6-8 inches. That’s so that the camera clears the shoulders of the two front seat occupants and looks down at the instrument panel (instead of through the top of the cyclic). If you do not need the camera raised, you don’t need to bother with the extra RAM Mount equipment; the MyPilotPro helicopter mount includes everything you need to mount a GoPro to a bar.

Here are some links where you can find components mentioned in this video:

MyPilotPro: https://mypilotpro.com/shop/?wpam_id=13
Helicopter Mount: https://mypilotpro.com/product/helicopter-gopro-mount/?wpam_id=13
Other airplane and helicopter mounts are available. Check their site to see what products might work best for you.

RAM Mounts: http://www.rammounts.com/
PVC Pipe Products: https://www.rammount.com/shop-all/pvc-pipes

GoPro Hero 7 Black: https://amzn.to/2Lxyzwl

Nflightcam Aviation Audio + Power Cable for GoPro Hero: https://amzn.to/31syLTm

About Me and the Helicopter

  • I have been flying since 1998. My nearly 4,000 hours of flight time (as of 2019) is in Robinson R44, Robinson R22, and Bell 206L (Long Ranger) helicopters.
  • My helicopter is a 2005 Robinson R44 Raven II — the same one that appears in the photo at the beginning of the video. You can learn more about them here: https://robinsonheli.com/r44-specifications/ I own this helicopter. It is the third helicopter I’ve owned since 2000.
  • My helicopter has ADS-B Out and is picked up by radar facilities. You can see my track for recent flights on Flightradar24: https://www.flightradar24.com/data/aircraft/n7534D This is a great site for tracking any almost any flight, including the airlines.

About this Video

I try to drop cockpit POV videos every Sunday morning and “extras” with more info about owning and operating a helicopter midweek. (Some channel members get early access to some of these videos.) I also host occasional livestreams with Q&A chats. Subscribe so you don’t miss anything new! And tell your friends. The more subscribers I have, the more motivated I am to keep producing videos.

Some links on my channel are affiliate links, including all links to Amazon (https://amzn.to/32PLHTD) and MyPilotPro (https://mypilotpro.com/shop/?wpam_id=13). If you click one of them and buy something, I get a small referral reward. It doesn’t cost you anything so I hope you’ll shop with one of those links. Thanks.

Want to support the FlyingMAir channel? Here are four suggestions:

On Tripods

To use a tripod or not to use a tripod — that is the question.

I was on a photography cruise last week and dutifully brought along my tripod. That was a good thing because in our very first lecture on the cruise, we were told to always use our tripods to shoot photos.

Some version of this piece of advice is on every single “Top Ten” list for photography that I’ve ever seen. Search Google for photography tips and see for yourself. The smart lists say to “use a tripod whenever possible” or “know when to use a tripod.” But the lists for people who are apparently incapable of thinking for themselves just say “use a tripod.” And that’s the approach the instructors for this cruise had for shooting on land.

Honestly, I liked the guys. This steadfast “use a tripod” rule is the only complaint I had about them. It came to a head on our first outing when I took my camera off the tripod so I could get down close to the ground to take a shot. One of the guys saw me and reminded me to use the tripod.

“But I want to get down close to the ground,” I told him.

“Your tripod can do that,” he told me. “Let me show you.”

“You don’t need to,” I replied. “I know how.”

It’s true, of course. Every good tripod has the ability to flatten out its legs so they’re all spread out while the tripod head is closer to the ground. But there are two problems with this. First, my tripod features a central pole about a foot long that the camera sits on. That means my camera head can never be less than a foot from the ground when it’s on the tripod. Second, setting up the tripod like that means splayed legs that cannot easily be adjusted when you’re perched on the edge of a cliff (as I was then). The tripod was not going to help me get the shot. It was going to hinder me.

And that’s my point: tripods often hinder more than help.

Fortunately, he backed off. I respect him for that. I think he was thinking that I’d learn the hard way, by screwing up photos. But I knew a little more about photography than I think he thought I knew and I did okay.

Why Use a Tripod

The primary reason to use a tripod for photography is to steady the camera. This prevents (or should prevent) camera shake, which is a common cause of blurriness in a photo. While exposure and saturation and composition can all be fixed in a photo editing application, blurriness usually cannot.

I say “should prevent” because using a tripod also requires the use of a shutter release cable or other device to push down the shutter button on the camera. The thought is that even your gentle pressure on that button might shake the camera enough to move it while the photo is being taken. A workaround — which I usually use — is to set the self-timer for 2 seconds and use that: push the button, move your finger away, and 2 seconds later the camera will snap the photo.

The photo guys on this cruise also claimed that using a tripod slows you down so you really think about the composition and camera settings.

I agree that it slows you down — how can it not? Even if the camera is already firmly mounted and the legs extended, you still have to stop on appropriate terrain, spread the legs, adjust the leg length for the right height or to level the tripod on uneven ground, adjust the tripod head to get the camera pointed at the subject, and then repeat a variety of these things to get the composition you want. (Obviously, this is not an option with a moving subject, but we’ll pretend the subject isn’t going anywhere fast.) What if the optimum position for getting the shot you want is to balance on a slope of boulders? Or lie on your belly at the edge of a cliff?

As for it helping me think about the composition and camera settings, well, composition is always forefront in my mind — which is why I don’t like using a tripod. Forcing me to set up the tripod to get the composition I want is often frustrating, taking all the fun out of photography. (Remember, I don’t do this for a living; it’s a hobby.)

And while I admit that I don’t pay as much attention as I should to camera settings, I’ll also point out that after spending five minutes setting up a tripod to get as close to my desired composition as I want, the last thing I want to do is play around with camera settings. I just want to make the picture and get on with my life.

Patience is something I’ve always struggled with. While it’s nice for a hobby to be challenging, it shouldn’t try your patience.

Of course, there are times when you absolutely must use a tripod; I’ll get to that shortly.

Carrying a Tripod

I think another one of my gripes about using a tripod is carrying it.

Manfrotto Tripod
Although my tripod is an older model, it looks just like this newer one.

My tripod is a big, sturdy Manfrotto with a ball head — excellent quality but heavy. Good tripods are heavy by default. They need to be heavy if they’re going to be sturdy enough to actually stabilize the camera.

I have at least one other decent quality tripod, a Slik, but it’s smaller and lightweight — the kind of tripod you wouldn’t mind carrying but couldn’t trust to hold up your DSLR with an 85-300mm zoom lens attached.

(I suppose an exception to heavy being better would be a carbon fiber tripod, but if I have $450 to spend on a tripod, I’ll likely spend it on something else. And I can’t imagine something lightweight holding up in the wind, now matter what it’s made of.)

Carrying a heavy tripod along with a bag full of camera gear on an otherwise pleasant hike in the woods or along a narrow shoreline path isn’t fun. ‘Nuff said.

But Really: Do you Need a Tripod?

Given that tripods are meant to prevent camera shake that could blur the image, take a moment to consider the conditions under which blurring from camera shake might occur: slow shutter speeds.

You need to know a little about how real (not smartphone) cameras work. When you press a camera’s shutter button, light goes through the lens and onto a surface that records what the camera sees. In the old days, it was film. Nowadays, it’s a sensor.

The more light that is recorded onto that surface, the brighter the resulting photo is. That’s called the exposure. The goal is to get a perfect exposure that shows detail in both the highlights and shadows. Sometimes that’s difficult to the point of being downright impossible, but let’s set that aside for now. If too much light comes through, the highlights will be blown out — too bright to see detail. If too little light comes through, the shadows will be too dark to see detail. So exposure becomes very important.

Cameras (and photographers) control the exposure using three different settings that work together:

  • Shutter speed is the amount of time the camera lens is open to let light in. This is measured in fractions of a second, although it could be more than a second. The higher the shutter speed, the more light comes through. Higher shutter speeds can freeze motion (including camera shake) while slower ones can turn motion into a blur (which might be a desired effect in your situation).
  • Aperture is the size of the lens opening. This is measured in what’s called f-stops. The lower the f-stop number, the bigger the aperture opening is and the more light that comes through. Aperture is important because it controls depth of field — the higher the f-stop, the more depth of field is available for close subjects. The bokeh effect that everyone likes is created with a low f-stop (wide open lens) while focusing on something relatively close.
  • ISO in digital photography is the sensitivity of the camera’s sensor. (In the old days of film, it was called ASA and it measured the sensitivity of film to light, which is nearly the same thing.) The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the sensor is. That means it can record more information with less light. The drawback to very high ISO settings is that they tend to introduce noise — digital artifacts — into your photos.

(By the way, if you want a better explanation of these terms, check out Digital Photography School‘s pages on shutter speed, aperture, and ISO.)

These three factors work together to form what’s commonly called the Exposure Triangle. You see, if you set any two of these factors, the third factor must be manipulated to get the correct exposure.

For example, if the ISO is set at 1000 and the aperture is ƒ 18, you might need a shutter speed of 1/500 second to get the right exposure — depending on the light conditions.

Bird
Seagull, shot from a moving boat. (No tripod.) ISO 1000, focal length 300mm, aperture ƒ 18, shutter speed 1/500 second.

(This, by the way, is what the instructor was referring to when he talked about having more time to consider camera settings. These are the settings he was referring to.)

So blurriness from camera shake is caused by slow shutter speeds. And there are two ways to avoid camera shake. I’ve already told you one of them: use a tripod. The other is to simply increase the shutter speed.

What shutter speed to you need? Well supposing that you want to freeze the action and prevent camera shake from blurring the image, that depends on the focal length of your lens. There’s a rule of thumb that says you need a shutter speed with a denominator (the bottom part of a fraction) that’s larger than the focal length of a lens. So if you’re using a 50mm lens, you need a shutter speed of at least 1/50 but since that option doesn’t exist on any camera I’ve seen, you’ll likely use 1/60 or faster.

So it’s a bright overcast day. I’m in the woods. My ISO is set for 1600, which is still below a setting where noise becomes a problem in my camera. I’m using a zoom lens set to 70mm. I want a blurred background, so I’ve got my lens wide open to f5.6 (which is the widest this lens opens). I should have plenty of light for a fast shutter speed — certainly fast enough to avoid camera shake.

Mushrooms
It’s not the best photo, but it does illustrate my point. ISO 1600, focal length 70mm, aperture ƒ 5.6, shutter speed 1/200 second. (No tripod.)

So why in hell would I use a tripod?

Yes, it would be impossible for me to get my tripod this close to the ground for this shot. But if I made this shot work without a tripod, I can make nearly any shot work without a tripod.

That’s my point.

Why would I carry around a heavy tripod that’s a pain in the butt to set up and use and takes most of the fun out of photography when I don’t need it?

Look at my previous post, where I went into detail about the cruise. Check out the photos. Which of those do you think I used a tripod for? I’ll give you a hint: it was only two of them.

Using a Tripod When Necessary

I mentioned earlier that tripod use is broken down in various photography tip lists to three different presentations:

  • Always use a tripod.
  • Use a tripod whenever possible.
  • Use a tripod when necessary.

The instructors on our cruise were basically in that middle school of thought. Their instruction was to always use a tripod when you’re on land and don’t use it when you’re in a boat. (Using a tripod in a moving vehicle is pretty dumb because it defeats the purpose of using a tripod.)

Tafoni
Tafoni rock formation, shot from a moving boat. (No tripod.) Focal length 145mm, ISO 1000, aperture ƒ 16, shutter speed 1/500.

But I’m firmly in the third school of thought: use a tripod when necessary. To me, necessary means situations when you must have the shutter open a long time.

An example is nighttime sky photography. I’m usually working with 30-second exposures with my 10mm lens wide open. Those two parts of the Exposure Triangle are fixed. The only leg of that triangle that I can change is the ISO and I use that to get the exposure I want. It’s usually very high — 3200 or more — too high for daytime photography.

Venus Reflected
This is shot from 2017, when I was camped out along the Colorado River. I don’t have the settings, but I can assure you that this was shot from a tripod.

Another example of when you might want motion blur in your photos. Imagine sitting at a race track and wanting to capture the speed of the cars whizzing by. Put the camera on a tripod, set the shutter speed to 1/10 second or slower, and adjust the other two Exposure Triangle settings to ensure you get a good exposure. Then shoot pictures as the cars roar past. Everything in focus that isn’t moving will stay in focus but those moving cars will be a blur. It isn’t possible to pull this off properly without using a tripod.

And that brings up one more point in favor of using a tripod: it can give you more artistic flexibility. After all, once it’s set up with your subject properly framed, there’s nothing to stop you from experimenting with all of your camera settings to get the perfect picture. I guess that’s what the course instructors meant by slowing down.

In Summary

To use a tripod or not to use a tripod? That’s the question you need to answer based on the situation.

As for me, I’ll only use when when I have to — and I know enough about how my camera works to know when that might be.