Ah, For a Good Night’s Sleep!

Jack the Dog defends his territory.

I’ve been living at Howard Mesa for almost a full month now. And it’s been almost a full month since I’ve had a good night’s sleep.

The problem is Jack the Dog. You see, he feels as if he has to protect me from animals of the night. I’m talking about coyotes.

Howard Mesa is home to a wide range of wildlife, including rabbits (cottontails and jackrabbits), antelope, elk, coyotes, ravens, hummingbirds, nighthawks, and a variety of other birds. Since our property is fenced-in, we don’t usually see antelope or elk. This year, we haven’t seen any coyotes (yet) either. But that doesn’t mean we haven’t heard them.

Every night, packs of coyotes on various parts of the mesa, howl. They do it around sunset and then at various times throughout the night. The sound is distant and rather pleasant in a wild sort of way. It doesn’t usually wake me. It isn’t usually close enough to be that loud.

But it’s loud enough for Jack the Dog to hear, even in the dead of night when he, Alex the Bird, and I are sound asleep. And every time he hears those darn coyotes, he reacts the same way: by barking.

So, in the middle of the night, I’m likely to be awakened by my own dog barking at least two or three times.

The other night, he barked so suddenly that I heard Alex the Bird fall of the perch in his sleeping cage.

I don’t know why he barks at the coyotes here. He doesn’t do it at home. There’s no threat of coyotes attacking us in our camper. And they really aren’t very close.

Tonight, I’m bringing a cup of water to bed with me. When Jack barks, he’ll not only get yelled at, but doused. We’ll see if that makes things any better.

I’d like to sleep a whole night through.

Breakfast in Winslow…No, Page…No, Marble Canyon

I start off on a flight to Winslow and end up at Marble Canyon.If you regularly read these blog entries, you may know that I had breakfast in Winslow, AZ the other day. There was a second item on La Posada’s breakfast menu that I wanted to try. I thought I’d go back today.

I invited my friend Elizabeth to come with me. She lives, with her husband Matt, at Howard Mesa year-round. I took Matt and two of their friends for breakfast at Sedona for my birthday a few weeks ago. Matt is on a business trip, so I thought I’d invite Elizabeth this time.

I also invited Larry Fox, another Howard Mesa full-timer. He’s an older guy, 65, and apparently old fashioned. He said it wouldn’t be appropriate for him to go on a trip with two other women without his wife present. I invited his wife, too, but he says she’s afraid of heights. I’m starting to think that he’s afraid to fly with me….

Matt and Elizabeth's HouseElizabeth arrived at 7 AM and I was ready to go. We started off with a little tour of Howard Mesa. Elizabeth used my camera to take a photo of her house (see photo). I pointed out all the little cabins and sheds and trailers that you can’t see from the road. Then we went up to Valle and followed 180 east. She showed me where some friends of hers had just bought some land and I showed her Red Mountain. From there, we headed north. It had rained the day before and I was interested in seeing if there was water in the Little Colorado River. There wasn’t. I took her to the Little Colorado Gorge lookout, just outside the Grand Canyon SUA, and was disappointed to see the canyon bottom just as dry as it had been the last time I flew over.

At that point, I realized that we were probably as close to Page as we were to Winslow. I checked my GPS and learned that we were actually 2 miles closer to Page. I asked if she wanted to go to Page instead. “Sure,” she said.

Near the GapAs we flew along the cliffs near The Gap, she admitted that she’d never been to Page. I told her a little about it. I figured we’d land at the airport, then take the free shuttle to the marina where there was a restaurant. But when I pointed out the Vermillion Cliffs in the distance ahead of us, I got a better idea. Marble Canyon. The runway is right across the street from the lodge and restaurant. Elizabeth was game. Actually, I don’t think she cared where we went. I didn’t really care either, for that matter. Elizabeth took a few photos of the landscape we flew over, including this shot in the Cedar Ridge area. She was fascinated by the geology of the land, especially the tilted layers of multi-colored rock. I explained how some of the more obvious formations were made and told her I had a book about Grand Canyon geology that probably explained a lot more. We were flying over the Navajo Reservation and, when we were away from the main road, we saw lots of ruins of old hogans and animal pens. That’s the kind of stuff that interests me. I especially liked the animal pens that had been built into natural rock formations — like a box canyon with its open side fenced off or animal pens built entirely of stone.

N630ML at Marble CanyonWe crossed the Colorado River at Marble Canyon and landed at Marble Canyon’s airstrip. I set down on the dirt ramp area and shut down. It was about 8 AM and the morning sun was still low enough to make the Vermillion Cliffs behind us…well, vermillion. In my opinion this is the most scenic spot anyone can use as a backdrop for a photo of their aircraft. In fact, it’s enough of an excuse to fly in to Marble Canyon. Just be advised: the runway is very narrow.

Marble CanyonWe had breakfast at the lodge restaurant. It wasn’t anything special. I think our waitress may have been more interested in listening to her MP3 player than serving us. Afterwards, we climbed back on board and took off to the north. A plane had just taken off from Marble Canyon’s runway, so I had to stay a bit low until it passed over us. (I didn’t use the runway.) Our flight path gave us great views of Navajo Bridge and the river at Lees Ferry, as well as Horseshoe Bend further upstream. Elizabeth kept snapping photos, like this one, which kind of gives you an idea of the visibility in a helicopter. Don’t mind the reflections in the bubble; I was wearing my loud white pants again. And yes, that’s my hand on the cyclic.

I wanted to get fuel at Page before going back. I figured I’d show Elizabeth a little of the town and the lake and Antelope Canyon, too. Page airport was hopping, with lots of planes coming in. I slipped in behind a Cessna and set down at the helipads. Representatives from both FBOs came out to meet me with carts. Their fuel is the same price, so I picked Classic, since my friend Rod works for them. It took a while for us to finish up the transaction because the guy in the FBO office was new and was completely over his head. Elizabeth paid for the fuel, which was very nice, considering she’d also paid for breakfast. We got a ride back out to the helicopter and took off over the lake. I got to see the new Antelope Point Marina, then followed Antelope Creek until it dried up and we saw the two slot canyons.

From there, we followed the edge of the Grand Canyon SUA back to Howard Mesa, making a few detours to check out some ruins, a canyon, and a controlled burn. We buzzed Larry Fox’s house — well, not really — before heading up to my pad on top of the mesa.

It had been a nice morning out. But then again, what morning spent in flight isn’t?

Williams, AZ

A small town success.

As I mentioned in another blog entry, I can’t say enough good things about Williams, AZ, my summer “home town.”

Williams was once a thriving Route 66 community, offering motels, restaurants, and service stations to folks driving between the eastern and western states. Then I-40 came along. East/west traffic sped by and the businesses that catered to the slower, Route 66 traffic folded one after another. But rather than dry up and blow away, Williams cashed in on its location at the junction of I-40 and State Route 64, approximately 60 miles south of the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. It reinvented itself as the “Gateway to the Grand Canyon,” and managed to attract many Grand Canyon visitors.

Williams’ success is due primarily to its strong Chamber of Commerce, which has worked hard to make Williams a destination in itself. While it’s true that Williams doesn’t have anything that can compete with the majestic beauty of the Grand Canyon, it does have many things that the Grand Canyon doesn’t: affordable motel rooms and restaurants, shopping, and a couple of features you can’t find anywhere else: the Grand Canyon Railroad and nightly shootouts.

During the summer months, the Grand Canyon Railroad runs an authentic steam engine from Williams to Grand Canyon Village. If you’re a train buff, this is a train that you simply must see. You can walk around it at the Williams train depot each morning before 10 AM (when it departs for the Grand Canyon) or at the Grand Canyon train depot each afternoon from about noon until 4 PM (when it departs for Williams). The train ride takes just under 2 hours each way and I’ve been told that the train is often robbed by bandits on horseback. I’ve seen the train from the air many times — both at its arrival at the Grand Canyon when I flew for Papillon last summer and enroute between Williams and Howard Mesa on one of my many flights in the area this summer. (As a matter of fact, I saw it again just today.) The Grand Canyon Railroad runs year-round, but in the other three seasons of the year, they run a diesel engine. The ride is just as much fun.

Back in Williams, there’s trouble brewing every night. You can expect a shootout on the street, and fortunately, the local Chamber of Commerce seems to know exactly when and where each shootout will be. You can pick up a list of upcoming shootouts in many of the local businesses, so you can find a good spot for the action. Bring your camera! The town of Williams just doesn’t say it’s a “western town.” It proves it with tourist attractions that have a definite western flair.

Afternoons and evenings in Williams are fun for everyone. There are horse-drawn carriage rides up and down old Route 66. There are shops and restaurants. And you won’t find a “For Rent” or “Not a Retail Outlet” sign anywhere along the main drag.

If you’re looking for a strip mall or a big box store, you won’t find one. And fortunately, Williams keeps its fast food restaurants where they belong: on the I-40 exits. In town, there are locally owned and operated restaurants featuring Mexican, Italian, and American food.

If day-to-day activities in Williams aren’t enough, the town goes the next step by playing host to a number of events that help the local businesses thrive. For example, a few weekends ago, there was a big Harley Davidson rally in town. Every hotel room was booked, every restaurant was filled. A few streets and parking areas were blocked off with event vendors. The event was a big success. Oddly enough, I overheard an attendee talk about it on the last day of the event. She was telling a friend that next year, she’s coming to Williams a week before the event so she can enjoy the town without the crowds.

If you’re planning a trip to the Grand Canyon area and find yourself in Williams, make a stop at the Chamber of Commerce office. It’s full of knowledgeable people who can tell you about all the events and activities. But it’s also a museum, with exhibits about the area — a good place to get acquainted with the town.

I think Wickenburg can learn a lot from Williams. Sadly, Wickenburg seems satisfied to be a pit stop on the road from Phoenix to Las Vegas — rather than a destination worth stopping and staying at.

Java Cycle

Where I get my latte and Internet fixes while up at Howard Mesa.

I need to spend some bytes here talking about Java Cycle, a coffee shop on Route 66 in Williams, AZ.

Java CycleOne of the many things I don’t have on Howard Mesa is an Internet connection. Sure, I have my PowerBook and sure, the solar panel on the trailer roof provides enough power for me to keep it charged. So I can compose e-mail messages, write blog entries, play with my GPS’s connectivity features, and work on my novel. But I can’t surf the Web, send and receive e-mail messages, or publish those blog entries. Enter Java Cycle. This funky little coffee shop, which used to be a bicycle shop, offers a full range of coffee beverages and free wireless Internet connection. Conveniently located on the eastbound side of Route 66, west of Grand Canyon Boulevard, I can usually find a parking space right out front. So I can take my PowerBook down to Williams, order a latte, and sit at a comfortable table while taking care of my Internet needs.

Java Cycle also has a computer that you can use to check your e-mail or surf the Web. It’s $1 for 15 minutes, which I think is reasonable. Best of all, it’s an old iMac. How can I not like that? That’s a great idea because it baffles the PC users just enough that they don’t spend much time surfing and the computer is nearly always available.

Want more? Java Cycle also has a stack of board and card games and tables where you can play them. So if you feel like taking a break from slow roasting at an off-the-grid trailer home, you can come down and play Monopoly or checkers or poker in air-cooled comfort.

There’s jewelry and artwork and other items for sale, too, just in case you feel an urgent need to shop.

I visit Java Cycle 2 to 3 times a week. Most of the folks who work there — and the owner — have gotten to know me, so I feel like a regular. I even have a punchcard that will reward me with a free latte when I’ve bought 10 of them.

Compare this to the Starbucks at Barnes and Noble, which I visited last week. I needed a map book to plan my August road trip so I visited the B&N in Flagstaff. A sign on the door invited me to try their wireless Internet, so I brought in my computer. I ordered an iced latte and sandwich and settled down to check my e-mail. Imagine my surprise when access required a $16 subscription. Sheesh. These places get you coming and going. I think I spent enough money on the map book ($17.95 plus tax) plus lunch (more than $12), yet they want to squeeze another $16 out of me so I can check my e-mail? Not likely. Businesses like Java Cycle — and the Old Nursery Coffee Company in Wickenburg — are doing things right by making wireless Internet access free.

And while on the subject of Starbucks, have you ever noticed that they seem to open in towns right next to an existing coffee shop? (I think I may have ranted about this in another blog entry; likely the one I swore that I’d never buy Starbucks again.) Starbucks is the Wal-Mart of coffee. I don’t think we should support any big company that appears to purposely drive its competition out of business, especially when that competition is the kind of local business that helps keep a small town alive. And what’s with the coffee sizes at Starbucks? Small, medium, and large aren’t good enough words to describe sizes? But now I’m getting way off topic.

My point: if you’re ever in Williams, AZ and you feel a need for a cup of java and chance to check your e-mail, be sure to stop in at Java Cycle. Tell them Maria, the helicopter pilot, sent you.

Is There No Escape from the Heat?

The temperature hits 102°F at Howard Mesa.

Yesterday, it hit 115°F in Phoenix. The meteorologists expect the same today — which would break a record.

Temperatures hit 100° in Prescott yesterday. I can’t imagine 100° in Prescott.

I don’t know what the temperature in Wickenburg was yesterday because I’m not there and haven’t been there for three weeks now. But I can tell you the high temperature in the screened-in room beside my trailer at Howard Mesa: 102°. It was not a happy time for me — or for Alex the Bird.

Poor Alex, stuck in his cage. He spent a good part of the late morning standing on his highest perch, wings slightly out, panting. At times, his eyes were half closed. I thought he was going to have heat stroke or something. So I took the only fan I have, plugged it into the inverter, clipped it to the door so it would point right at him, and turned it on. Then I took a wet washcloth and placed it on the back of the fan, so the moisture would be drawn through. I created, in effect, a mini evaporative cooler. Of course, I had to rewet the washcloth every 20 minutes or so. But it really made a difference for him. He came back to life.

There was no relief for me. I spent a good part of the day only partially dressed, lounging in the shade with a book. There’s no one at Howard Mesa to see me — I could have lounged in my birthday suit. I’d finished my chores — feeding the critters, adding water to the horses’ water trough, putting on the horses’ fly masks — before 7 AM. Then I’d spent about an hour or two working on the insulation in the shed. I’m about halfway finished now; just need about 12 more sheets of the stuff to do the ceiling. Then I retreated to the shade.

Jack, of course, spent the entire day under the trailer.

The heat wouldn’t have been so bad if there had been some wind. Howard Mesa is windy most of the time, but lately, the wind has been very calm. (Or “mild” if you talk to the folks at Wickenburg Airport.) There was a breeze yesterday, but it was blowing from the northwest. That’s behind the camper. So the camper blocked the wind and none of it came into the screened-in room. Or into the camper.

The sun beat down relentlessly most of the day. But around noon or 1 PM, enough clouds had built up that the sun slipped behind them once in a while. I consulted the thermometer I’d put on the table during one of our shady spells. The temperature in the screened-in room dropped 4° in a matter of minutes.

Today, I’m going to Flagstaff. I have a meeting to attend there and a bunch of stuff to pick up at Olsen’s Grain and Home Depot. The truck has air conditioning, so I’ll be comfortable.

But I do admit that I’m a bit worried about Alex the Bird. There will be no evap cooler for him today.