Williams, AZ

A small town success.

As I mentioned in another blog entry, I can’t say enough good things about Williams, AZ, my summer “home town.”

Williams was once a thriving Route 66 community, offering motels, restaurants, and service stations to folks driving between the eastern and western states. Then I-40 came along. East/west traffic sped by and the businesses that catered to the slower, Route 66 traffic folded one after another. But rather than dry up and blow away, Williams cashed in on its location at the junction of I-40 and State Route 64, approximately 60 miles south of the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. It reinvented itself as the “Gateway to the Grand Canyon,” and managed to attract many Grand Canyon visitors.

Williams’ success is due primarily to its strong Chamber of Commerce, which has worked hard to make Williams a destination in itself. While it’s true that Williams doesn’t have anything that can compete with the majestic beauty of the Grand Canyon, it does have many things that the Grand Canyon doesn’t: affordable motel rooms and restaurants, shopping, and a couple of features you can’t find anywhere else: the Grand Canyon Railroad and nightly shootouts.

During the summer months, the Grand Canyon Railroad runs an authentic steam engine from Williams to Grand Canyon Village. If you’re a train buff, this is a train that you simply must see. You can walk around it at the Williams train depot each morning before 10 AM (when it departs for the Grand Canyon) or at the Grand Canyon train depot each afternoon from about noon until 4 PM (when it departs for Williams). The train ride takes just under 2 hours each way and I’ve been told that the train is often robbed by bandits on horseback. I’ve seen the train from the air many times — both at its arrival at the Grand Canyon when I flew for Papillon last summer and enroute between Williams and Howard Mesa on one of my many flights in the area this summer. (As a matter of fact, I saw it again just today.) The Grand Canyon Railroad runs year-round, but in the other three seasons of the year, they run a diesel engine. The ride is just as much fun.

Back in Williams, there’s trouble brewing every night. You can expect a shootout on the street, and fortunately, the local Chamber of Commerce seems to know exactly when and where each shootout will be. You can pick up a list of upcoming shootouts in many of the local businesses, so you can find a good spot for the action. Bring your camera! The town of Williams just doesn’t say it’s a “western town.” It proves it with tourist attractions that have a definite western flair.

Afternoons and evenings in Williams are fun for everyone. There are horse-drawn carriage rides up and down old Route 66. There are shops and restaurants. And you won’t find a “For Rent” or “Not a Retail Outlet” sign anywhere along the main drag.

If you’re looking for a strip mall or a big box store, you won’t find one. And fortunately, Williams keeps its fast food restaurants where they belong: on the I-40 exits. In town, there are locally owned and operated restaurants featuring Mexican, Italian, and American food.

If day-to-day activities in Williams aren’t enough, the town goes the next step by playing host to a number of events that help the local businesses thrive. For example, a few weekends ago, there was a big Harley Davidson rally in town. Every hotel room was booked, every restaurant was filled. A few streets and parking areas were blocked off with event vendors. The event was a big success. Oddly enough, I overheard an attendee talk about it on the last day of the event. She was telling a friend that next year, she’s coming to Williams a week before the event so she can enjoy the town without the crowds.

If you’re planning a trip to the Grand Canyon area and find yourself in Williams, make a stop at the Chamber of Commerce office. It’s full of knowledgeable people who can tell you about all the events and activities. But it’s also a museum, with exhibits about the area — a good place to get acquainted with the town.

I think Wickenburg can learn a lot from Williams. Sadly, Wickenburg seems satisfied to be a pit stop on the road from Phoenix to Las Vegas — rather than a destination worth stopping and staying at.

Java Cycle

Where I get my latte and Internet fixes while up at Howard Mesa.

I need to spend some bytes here talking about Java Cycle, a coffee shop on Route 66 in Williams, AZ.

Java CycleOne of the many things I don’t have on Howard Mesa is an Internet connection. Sure, I have my PowerBook and sure, the solar panel on the trailer roof provides enough power for me to keep it charged. So I can compose e-mail messages, write blog entries, play with my GPS’s connectivity features, and work on my novel. But I can’t surf the Web, send and receive e-mail messages, or publish those blog entries. Enter Java Cycle. This funky little coffee shop, which used to be a bicycle shop, offers a full range of coffee beverages and free wireless Internet connection. Conveniently located on the eastbound side of Route 66, west of Grand Canyon Boulevard, I can usually find a parking space right out front. So I can take my PowerBook down to Williams, order a latte, and sit at a comfortable table while taking care of my Internet needs.

Java Cycle also has a computer that you can use to check your e-mail or surf the Web. It’s $1 for 15 minutes, which I think is reasonable. Best of all, it’s an old iMac. How can I not like that? That’s a great idea because it baffles the PC users just enough that they don’t spend much time surfing and the computer is nearly always available.

Want more? Java Cycle also has a stack of board and card games and tables where you can play them. So if you feel like taking a break from slow roasting at an off-the-grid trailer home, you can come down and play Monopoly or checkers or poker in air-cooled comfort.

There’s jewelry and artwork and other items for sale, too, just in case you feel an urgent need to shop.

I visit Java Cycle 2 to 3 times a week. Most of the folks who work there — and the owner — have gotten to know me, so I feel like a regular. I even have a punchcard that will reward me with a free latte when I’ve bought 10 of them.

Compare this to the Starbucks at Barnes and Noble, which I visited last week. I needed a map book to plan my August road trip so I visited the B&N in Flagstaff. A sign on the door invited me to try their wireless Internet, so I brought in my computer. I ordered an iced latte and sandwich and settled down to check my e-mail. Imagine my surprise when access required a $16 subscription. Sheesh. These places get you coming and going. I think I spent enough money on the map book ($17.95 plus tax) plus lunch (more than $12), yet they want to squeeze another $16 out of me so I can check my e-mail? Not likely. Businesses like Java Cycle — and the Old Nursery Coffee Company in Wickenburg — are doing things right by making wireless Internet access free.

And while on the subject of Starbucks, have you ever noticed that they seem to open in towns right next to an existing coffee shop? (I think I may have ranted about this in another blog entry; likely the one I swore that I’d never buy Starbucks again.) Starbucks is the Wal-Mart of coffee. I don’t think we should support any big company that appears to purposely drive its competition out of business, especially when that competition is the kind of local business that helps keep a small town alive. And what’s with the coffee sizes at Starbucks? Small, medium, and large aren’t good enough words to describe sizes? But now I’m getting way off topic.

My point: if you’re ever in Williams, AZ and you feel a need for a cup of java and chance to check your e-mail, be sure to stop in at Java Cycle. Tell them Maria, the helicopter pilot, sent you.

The $25 Top Off

I top off my water tanks without making a call — or a drive.

I’d just finished a snack of blueberries, bananas, and vanilla yogurt when I thought I heard the sound of a truck’s engine out on the road. Jack the Dog confirmed that something was out there by letting out a half-hearted bark.

I grabbed my shirt, put on my shoes, and left the screened-in room. A water truck was backing up to the only house within view of our place at Howard Mesa, a rather ugly doublewide across the road. The house has been for sale for years and lately, since the association finally made the road drivable for ordinary cars (as opposed to high-clearance, 4WD vehicles), Realtors have been popping in once in a while, trying to sell it. Last week, there was a car and a truck there for several hours and I figured it was sold. But the sign remained and no one has been back — at least not while I was here. But now water was being delivered. What did that mean? Had it been sold? Would it be occupied again soon? Although I cared about all that, it wasn’t what interested me today. What interested me was the water. Would there be any leftover in the truck, and, if so, could I get it?We have two tanks on our property. The first one we bought was a 550 gallon tank, which we originally had filled for $60. Back in those days, we’d come up on weekends in the summer and camp in our pop-up camper. It was very rugged, but quite pleasant. Not having any plumbing, we didn’t use much water. In fact, the horses drank more than Mike and I used for showering, washing dishes, cooking, etc. The next time it needed to be filled, we had trouble finding someone who would come up to fill it for us. It seemed that no one wanted to drive “all the way up” here unless they were going to pump in at least 2000 gallons. We offered to pay for 2000 gallons, but they wouldn’t hear of it. So we went out and bought another tank, a 1550 gallon tank. With 2100 total gallons of storage, we could get water delivered.

Photo
This photo shows the big tank, with Jack the Dog posing in front of it. You can see the little tank and the shed in the background.

When your water is in a tank (or tanks, in my case) rather than connected to a city utility or well, you keep close track of how much water you use and have on hand. I checked the water levels just yesterday and figured I had about 800 gallons. My water usage (including the horses) is about 40 gallons a day. That gave me a 20-day supply. I figured I’d make a call for water when the big tank was empty; the small tank had about 300 gallons in it. By the time someone came up, I’d be able to take close to 2000 gallons.

The last time we had both tanks filled — last year; I wrote about it in a blog entry because the unusual circumstances surrounding the refill — it cost us $150 for 2000 gallons. That’s 7.5¢ per gallon. My friend Matt, who lives year-round on the other side of the mesa with his wife, says he can fill his 425-gallon pickup tank in Valle for $9 or in Belmont for an unbelievable $1.50. That’s just over 2¢ or well under 1¢ per gallon respectively. Their water usage is much higher than mine and he winds up making a water run at least once a week. A water run means driving to Valle (9 miles away) or Belmont (about 40 miles away) with the pickup and its tank, filling up, then returning with a load weighing approximately 3,400 lbs. He must then attach a pump to the pickup’s tank and start a generator to pump the water from the pickup tank to his storage tank. I figure a water run to Valle probably takes him an hour and a half total.

I’ve been thinking about hauling my own water to save money but the investment in that pickup tank and pump would be at least $300, so I wouldn’t start actually saving money until I’d been able to haul at least 5000 gallons. (You need to count the cost of the water and the cost of the fuel used to haul it. I’d like to count my time, but my time is pretty cheap these days, so I’ll skip it.) Mike doesn’t think that $150 to fill the tanks is all that much and I know darn well that he has no desire to haul it himself.

Back to the water delivery across the road.

With 800 gallons on hand, water was on my mind, but not as a pressing issue. But when I saw that truck, I saw an opportunity to get the tanks topped off. So I put on my shirt (it’s hot here and I tend to lounge in my sport bra) and made the 1/4 mile walk to my neighbor’s front yard.

The driver came right out of the truck, where he was enjoying the air conditioning. He was a kind of grizzly looking older guy wearing the dirtiest national park cap I’d ever seen. He was smoking a hand-rolled cigarette — and yes, it was tobacco.

I asked him if he’d have any water left over when he was finished filling the tank. He said he didn’t know. My neighbor’s tank is underground and neither of us knew how big it was or how empty it was. I told him that I’d take anything left over, provided the price was right.

“Isn’t it better to go back with an empty truck and a few extra bucks in your pocket?”

He agreed that it was.

We spent some time chatting about the area and about the kind of people who live five miles off pavement, off the grid. We shared some gossip about my neighbor and other people he delivered water to. He said most people don’t last long out here. They come in thinking that it’s going to be great to be so secluded and then they start disliking the inconveniences of hauling water and depending on solar panels and generators for electricity. Then we marveled at the house’s big roof and lack of gutters. Around here, it’s common to collect water off your roof with gutters and leaders into your water storage tank and run it through a filter before using it. My neighbor’s house didn’t have gutters. With the size of that roof, they could easily keep their tank filled if they’d set it up properly. Maybe the new owners would wake up and take care of it.

We both heard the water reach the top before it started gushing over the fill port. The water man flipped off the pump quickly. He consulted a sight tube on the side of the truck and told me he had about 900-1000 gallons left. I asked him how much he wanted for it.

“I don’t know,” he said. “How about $25?”

“Sold.”

I climbed into his truck and he started down my neighbor’s driveway. Jack the Dog, who had followed me over, led the way on foot. The man drove very slowly — so slowly that I figured it probably took him the better part of an hour to get from the pavement to my neighbor’s house — a distance of just under five miles. I opened our gate, he drove through, I closed it, and I climbed back on board.

He asked me if my helicopter was a Hiller. I told him that it was a Robinson. He asked me what I did with it. I told him. He asked if I flew it. “Sure,” I said. He told me he’d been a helicopter pilot in “the war” — probably Vietnam. He had that kind of look about him. Not the pilot look. The Vietnam vet look.

He rigged up the piping and was pumping water into the big tank within minutes. We chatted some more. I could feel the water level rise in the tank. Soon, his tank was empty and mine was filled. The big tank had swallowed it all.

I fetched $25 from the trailer and gave it to him. Then I showed him the work I’d done in the shed. He told me he was going to build a house out of block on some land he had in the area. I told him about the house we planned to build in the future.

I rode with him down to the gate. He told me he had most of an old gunship that he’d picked up at some kind of sale. Said he needed a swashplate and some other stuff to get it flying again. His eyes sparkled mischievously. I hope he gets those parts and gets the thing flying again. Valle needs a bit more excitement and a Vietnam-era helicopter gunship would be just the ticket.

I let him through the gate and watched him drive off. With a lighter load, it shouldn’t take him more than 30 minutes to get off the mesa.

And me, I figure I got 900 gallons of water delivered for 2.8¢ per gallon. Not bad!

Is There No Escape from the Heat?

The temperature hits 102°F at Howard Mesa.

Yesterday, it hit 115°F in Phoenix. The meteorologists expect the same today — which would break a record.

Temperatures hit 100° in Prescott yesterday. I can’t imagine 100° in Prescott.

I don’t know what the temperature in Wickenburg was yesterday because I’m not there and haven’t been there for three weeks now. But I can tell you the high temperature in the screened-in room beside my trailer at Howard Mesa: 102°. It was not a happy time for me — or for Alex the Bird.

Poor Alex, stuck in his cage. He spent a good part of the late morning standing on his highest perch, wings slightly out, panting. At times, his eyes were half closed. I thought he was going to have heat stroke or something. So I took the only fan I have, plugged it into the inverter, clipped it to the door so it would point right at him, and turned it on. Then I took a wet washcloth and placed it on the back of the fan, so the moisture would be drawn through. I created, in effect, a mini evaporative cooler. Of course, I had to rewet the washcloth every 20 minutes or so. But it really made a difference for him. He came back to life.

There was no relief for me. I spent a good part of the day only partially dressed, lounging in the shade with a book. There’s no one at Howard Mesa to see me — I could have lounged in my birthday suit. I’d finished my chores — feeding the critters, adding water to the horses’ water trough, putting on the horses’ fly masks — before 7 AM. Then I’d spent about an hour or two working on the insulation in the shed. I’m about halfway finished now; just need about 12 more sheets of the stuff to do the ceiling. Then I retreated to the shade.

Jack, of course, spent the entire day under the trailer.

The heat wouldn’t have been so bad if there had been some wind. Howard Mesa is windy most of the time, but lately, the wind has been very calm. (Or “mild” if you talk to the folks at Wickenburg Airport.) There was a breeze yesterday, but it was blowing from the northwest. That’s behind the camper. So the camper blocked the wind and none of it came into the screened-in room. Or into the camper.

The sun beat down relentlessly most of the day. But around noon or 1 PM, enough clouds had built up that the sun slipped behind them once in a while. I consulted the thermometer I’d put on the table during one of our shady spells. The temperature in the screened-in room dropped 4° in a matter of minutes.

Today, I’m going to Flagstaff. I have a meeting to attend there and a bunch of stuff to pick up at Olsen’s Grain and Home Depot. The truck has air conditioning, so I’ll be comfortable.

But I do admit that I’m a bit worried about Alex the Bird. There will be no evap cooler for him today.

The Winslow Loop

Satellite PhotoI check out a few points of interest from the air.

As you may have read in another entry, I am addicted to flying. If I don’t get a “fix” every few days, I get crazed. And here at Howard Mesa, where there’s not much else going on to keep me busy, I get crazed a lot easier than I would elsewhere.

Today I decided to make an early morning breakfast run. The destination was Winslow, which has a restaurant at the airport, but there was no reason to go straight there. (Especially since “straight there” would require me to overfly Mt. Kendricks, which is a bit too tall to fly over comfortably.) So I decided to swing north for the flight out and south for the flight back.

I was ready to leave by about 6:30 AM. Horses fed, masked, and sprayed. Dog confined in screened-in room. Bird in cage. iPod, camera, handheld GPS, and decibel meter on board. I started up, warmed up, and took off. I reset the trip computer and track log in my handheld GPS. I just got the GPS for my birthday. It’s a Garmin GPSMap 60c. A bit of a step up from my old GPSMap 12. I wanted it because it could store more maps than the old one and had WAAS capabilities, which could make it more accurate — something I’ll need if I ever get serious about geocaching. I left the GPS on to track my progress. The idea was to transfer the resulting tracklog to my laptop and use Terrabrowser to superimpose it over either a topo map or satellite photos. (I’m writing an article about doing this for Informit.com, so I don’t want to go into any detail here.) Here are the first pass results of this experiment. The white and black areas are ones I didn’t have satellite images cached for. The red letters are referenced throughout; A is my starting point at Howard Mesa.

Red MountainI headed northeast, right into the sun. Not good. I’d forgotten to put my hat on and the sun was shining right in my face, flickering through the blades. (I hate when that happens.) So I moved my headset down around my neck, put my hat on, and then put my headset back over my ears. Doesn’t sound like a big deal, does it? Well, you try to do it with one hand — your left hand. It was worth the struggle, though. The hat shaded my eyes nicely. I hit route 180 and followed it east, toward Flagstaff. I wanted an aerial view of Red Mountain, which I wrote about in another blog entry a few weeks ago. I had my camera and managed to snap two photos. Here’s one of them. Neither really shows the mountain well, but it’s hard to take pictures left-handed while flying a helicopter right toward a mountainside.

Then I headed on a more northerly track. I wanted to intersect with the Little Colorado River, but didn’t want to fly as far as Cameron. The high desert I flew over was deserted — at least at first. Then I flew into the outskirts of the Navajo reservation and began seeing small ranching settlements beneath me. There were some cows, but mostly sheep. The homes out there were picturesque, with rolling green hills all around and a good view of the San Francisco Peaks, which is one of the Navajo’s sacred mountains. I saw round hogans with doors facing east, livestock pens, and outhouses. Life is simpler out there. Way simpler. I crossed highway 89, which runs from Flagstaff to Page, and got into more rugged terrain. There were fascinating rock formations below me and, every once in a while, another Navajo homestead. Then I spotted the Little Colorado River valley. I reached the river and was very disappointed to find it dry. I turned right (B) and followed it toward Winslow.

Little Colorado RiverThis was my second trip along the Little Colorado River. It isn’t a very exciting flight, but it is mildly interesting. There are a few remains of Navajo homesteads and something that looked like an old mine. The highlight, of course, is usually the Grand Falls of the Little Colorado. But without any water falling over the big cliff, it was extremely disappointing. From that point, I headed pretty much straight toward Winslow cutting across the high desert, 300 feet above the ground at 100 knots.

I landed at the airport (C), shut down, and went into town. All that is covered in another entry I wrote earlier today.

After chatting with two guys who had flown in from Redlands, CA to look at a business in Winslow — I can’t imagine what business in Winslow would be worth flying 450 miles in a Cessna to see — I climbed back on board and started up. While I was waiting to warm up, I used my decibel meter to get a reading on the ambient noise level inside the cockpit. About 100 decibels. Not good. I wanted to get a reading because I want to be able to fly with Jack the Dog and Alex the Bird and I’m worried about damaging their hearing. Alex travels in a lucite box and the sound levels are probably lower inside it, but I can’t imagine them being that much lower. Oddly enough, I checked the sound levels again after taking off, at 100% RPM, and they were pretty much the same. I didn’t expect it to get quieter, of course. But I also didn’t expect it to stay the same.

Meteor CraterI headed west along I-40 for a short while, then spotted the “mountain” formed around Meteor Crater and headed straight toward it. I’d tried to get a summer gig at the Crater and they wanted me, but they also wanted $15 million in insurance, which I cannot get. (I don’t know anyone who can, either.) I like to fly over the crater when I’m in the area. I think it’s the best view; about 400 feet above the rim. I circled it once (D) and took a few pictures, then headed back toward I-40 again. I followed I-40 for a while, then decided to follow the traces of old Route 66. I did that past Twin Arrows, Winona, Flagstaff, Belmont, and Parks. It’s interesting the way the road fades in and out of existence along the way.

Grand Canyon RailroadWhen I got close to Williams, I caught sight of the black smoke spit out by the Grand Canyon Railroad’s steam engine. I caught up with it just short of Howard Mesa and managed to take a halfway decent photo of it from the air. (Remember, I’m doing this left-handed, and, in this case, through the passenger side window, while flying a helicopter. So cut me some slack.) Back at Howard Mesa, I followed the state road up to my property. I flew low and slow, trying to check out the road work they’d been doing. They were still working on it. I probably gave the road grader guy a mini heart attack when I passed him 50 feet off the deck about 100 feet to his left at 60 knots. (He’ll have something to tell his wife tonight.) I set down on my pad and shut down. I’d logged 2.1 Hobbs hours and had gotten a good fix.

Oh, and in case you’re wondering about point E on the photo map, that’s the Grand Canyon. I didn’t fly over it, but doesn’t it look cool from space?